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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I used a stewart wp on my old 454 in the sonoma when I converted to serp belt. Got the idea from a member on here....
 
When I was reasearching water pumps Stewart seemed to be the gold standard.

I wouldn't hesitate to put a good Stewart on maybe like one of their stage 2 pumps. If they are still rating them in stages.

I think I bought a moroso pump, but it was a short pump.
 
Radiator arrived:

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19"x31" Griffin 2 core unit.

See if I can get it installed this weekend. :thinking:
 
1-25272-x is the party number. It's close to the factory size but a bit bigger.
 
We decided to finally get the truck up in the mountains on Sunday. On Saturday I decided to add something I had sitting waiting to be installed for a while courtesy of DIY4x:

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I also decided to work on the front bumper some more. I added clevis points and I also pulled the bumper back an inch closer to the body.

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I drilled the mounting holes for the winch, but I'm going to need to trim the bottom off the center support for the piece that runs across the bottom of the grill. The bracket will need cut flush with that that bottom trim type piece.

I also rotated the ram back. Didn't seem to cause any trouble.

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And the cool thing is that pulled the line up off the front spring.

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I only took one picture during our outing. Most of the time was spent hiking around looking for the caches and checking out old cemeteries. They sure used to loose a lot of babies back in the day.

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On the way home we stopped to look at Moffat tunnel where the trains cross over the continental divide under the mountain.

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Wish we could have gotten a picture with a train in the tunnel so the picture would make more sense.

And on the way out we had a double rainbow follow us for several miles. We could see the end of it in the trees. No one had enough energy left to go chasing after leprechauns.

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I installed the new radiator on Labor Day. I wasn't sure I could get it done before our trip Sunday and that was almost a mistake.

I knew the long pull up into the mountains would be hard on the truck and it was. The temp got over 250° before I finally pulled over. It is capable of cooling itself off at idle which tells me the fan and clutch are pulling good.

We were able to make our trip work by running the heater on high. Which worked okay since it was cool day with off and on sprinkles. The cooler weather felt really good after sweating my face in the shop the day before.

So that was my motivation to get the radiator in on Monday.

I purchased the Griffin 1-25272-X. I has 2 rows of 1" tube. Overall Size 31"x19". Core Size 26"x18.9". It's a universal style intended for 1-400HP motors. I went with the Griffin because it's made in USA and they support offroad events.

Here it is compared to the piece-o-crap radiator I pulled out.

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What is that like a 1-row radiator? :doah:


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Here's what the bottom of the core support looks like with the radiator removed.

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For reference if anyone is curious, you can see the tabs that hold the rubber bumper for the driver side of the radiator just above the steering box. If you look about 6" further to the right in the photo (just to the right of the blue hose) you can see where a diesel radiator ends up with the tabs to hold the rubber bumper.

I used the embossed area in the middle as the mounting platform for the lower radiator mount. The radiator measures 2" between the rails on the core. So I cut a piece of 2" wide, 1/4" thick strap to run under the radiator. I added a 1/2" thick spacer block under that to keep the radiator from hitting those tabs I mentioned earlier.

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The radiator nested down on that with a piece of 1/8" thick neoprene rubber between the radiator and saddle.

For the top I used a length of 2" square tube with pieces of 2" angle for brackets. I modified the angle brackets to bolt to the original mounting holes which were captive nuts inside the core support. I also had to make room for the filler neck and cap on the passenger side.

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Something to consider with most aftermarket aluminum radiators are the hoses. A factory radiator has 1.6" outlet on the bottom and 1.4" inlet on the top. The aluminum radiator has 1.75" on the bottom and 1.5" on the top. As it turns out the aluminum radiator matched the motor which has water pump inlet at 1.75" and the water neck outlet at 1.5". The factory hoses reduce down a little.

I believe some people have had success stretching factory hoses over the tubes on the aluminum radiators. I tried this on the bottom but I just couldn't get it. Luckily knowing this might be an issue I had purchased both factory hoses and universal hoses. The advantage of the universal hose is both ends are the same size. I really like the universal hoses. I've used them before in the General to match up a diesel radiator with a 350 gas engine. The are very thick and sturdy. IMO they seem more durable than factory hose. I suppose some people may not like the way they look. You can see the upper hose in the pictures above.

Now I need to come up with a fan shroud. Because this radiator is about 2" narrower at the core, the factory shroud won't fit. The outside edges land on the lower outlet on one side and the drain petcock on the other.

I'm also thinking about going electric, but I don't know if I'll have money for it.
 
Fun! Drive good does it?

Yes. The motor is definitely tired, but runs well. Throws a good white cloud on startup; probably leaky valve guides. Aside from the cooling issues that are hopefully done, I'm happy with it. I think we'll get the 2 more years out of it I need. Then hopefully an LS swap.
 
Scott.

One big mistake made with aluminum radiators, you have to isolate them from vibration. No solid mounting at all.

I have seen them last quite a while mounted like you have it but better safe than sorry.

I kind of hate to say that but its the truth. I would change that one before blazer bash
 
Scott.

One big mistake made with aluminum radiators, you have to isolate them from vibration. No solid mounting at all.

I have seen them last quite a while mounted like you have it but better safe than sorry.

I kind of hate to say that but its the truth. I would change that one before blazer bash

I may have forgotten to add there are 2" wide strips of 1/8" thick neoprene rubber between the top and bottom mounts and the radiator.
 
Did they offer that same size radiator two inches taller?

Martin

I agree that would have been ideal, but Griffin doesn't; at least not in the "universal" type. Afco and Be Cool have radiators that are 2" taller at the same width but you've gotta step over $200 for them. Like around $220.
 
Windstar fans are rather inexpensive

They are my vote

A seven blade fan would help too.

I had Windstar's on the General but one fan has a bearing going shot. Other problem is they are too wide. The overall width of the radiator with the tanks is 31" which is the same as the Windstar fans.

The fan in there now is 3-blade. :doah:
 
I had Windstar's on the General but one fan has a bearing going shot. Other problem is they are too wide. The overall width of the radiator with the tanks is 31" which is the same as the Windstar fans.

The fan in there now is 3-blade. :doah:

That's because it is a non A/C rig. That is also why it had the short radiator.

Martin
 
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