I kinda wondered what that was. Almost looked like you spilled paint on them.
Looks really good. I'm jealous of the ARB for sure
Looks really good. I'm jealous of the ARB for sure
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
An ARB is something I've wanted for a long time. The only way I could swing it was to do it in chunks. Did the compressor first, then purchase the locker, and finally get the locker installed.
I wish I could have done the install but I wasn't comfortable doing it. I've only pulled carriers to install lunchbox lockers and changed a carrier once with help from a pro.
The trick with the ARB is the carriers shims have to go outside of the bearings on the left side because of the air collar. That's why the instructions call for a case spreader. If it would have been going in a 14 bolt, I would feel comfortable doing that myself.
I wish I could have done the install but I wasn't comfortable doing it. I've only pulled carriers to install lunchbox lockers and changed a carrier once with help from a pro.
The trick with the ARB is the carriers shims have to go outside of the bearings on the left side because of the air collar. That's why the instructions call for a case spreader. If it would have been going in a 14 bolt, I would feel comfortable doing that myself.
Played around a little with the air system this weekend. I was able to use an IR 1/2" impact to remove 8 lug nuts. There were a couple of lugs that took a little more effort to remove and so I had to let pressure build a little. I didn't put the wheels on last so I have no idea how tight they were installed. This was done using the air hose from an ARB tire inflation kit going thru the 90psi regulator. I can't find anywhere what size the ARB air hose is but I'm pretty sure it's 3/8".
I'm also very happy that there seems to be little or no air leakage. I had the compressor on for at least 4 hours and it only kicked on once to maintain the 135-150 psi system pressure. Startled the crap out of me when it did come on!
I also decided to install Yukon Hardcore hubs. I've already beat to hell the original Spicer lockouts that came on the axle and I just didn't like the idea of beating up my "new" set.
For comparison to Warn Premium hubs, the Yukon hubs don't stick out near as far.
I'm also very happy that there seems to be little or no air leakage. I had the compressor on for at least 4 hours and it only kicked on once to maintain the 135-150 psi system pressure. Startled the crap out of me when it did come on!
I also decided to install Yukon Hardcore hubs. I've already beat to hell the original Spicer lockouts that came on the axle and I just didn't like the idea of beating up my "new" set.
For comparison to Warn Premium hubs, the Yukon hubs don't stick out near as far.
DickeysK5
1/2 ton status
Let us know your experiences with how hard the Yukon Hardcore hubs are to unlock.
They are hard to turn, but so were the Spicers. I have a t-handle type tool I use for turning the dial. Actually another reason I swapped out the Spicers, I was worried about my tool someday breaking the plastic dial. I've also found that driving for a bit in 2wd helps, at least it did with the Spicers.
My Yukons are hard to turn, but nowhere near as hard as old Spicers I have had.
Martin
Martin
I would say that's my experience, the Yukons are easier to turn.
I actually made a new "hub tool". Brent showed me his at Blazer Bash this year and I liked it better than mine.
This uses a 1" PVC tee with a notch for the dial. I added the 3/4" couplers on each end for more leverage when my sons unlock the hubs. I don't have a picture of my current tool, but this one is a little more compact.
This uses a 1" PVC tee with a notch for the dial. I added the 3/4" couplers on each end for more leverage when my sons unlock the hubs. I don't have a picture of my current tool, but this one is a little more compact.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Without searching through this whole thread, do you remember where or when within this tread you did your stereo install? I seen to Remember some cool stuff you did that was a little outside the box and would like to review it.
mckustomfab
1/2 ton status
Yes mckustom got it. A few lessons I've learned.
1) A CB will over power a Bluetooth signal.
2) You can get a volume knob which I would suggest. The phone doesn't fine tune the signal well enough.
3) Cheap noise filters are no good. I have one in my audio input and it failed. Not completely but annoyingly in an intermittent manner.
Unfortunately the filter failure was a late diagnosis. I thought it was the equalizer glitching. Soooo I ended up buying a regular stereo receiver.
Like all technology, things have changed in the 2 years since I installed the stereo system. You can now get stereo receivers that are "media" receivers. They don't play CD's which works for me with the vertical mounting in the console. With the lack of CD'S play capability the unit is much shallower which might have some benefits.
I found a JVC unit for $60. It has built in Bluetooth and outputs for front and rear channels. The rear channels can be set to subwoofer which is perfect for my system. It also has the typical audio cable port on the front as well as a USB port. I've also seen a Pioneer unit with similar specs on sale for $50.
I'm in the process of installing this now and will report back how it all goes.
I will be selling the equalizer I had since it wasn't faulty after all. Along with the Bluetooth antenna thing I had as well.
1) A CB will over power a Bluetooth signal.
2) You can get a volume knob which I would suggest. The phone doesn't fine tune the signal well enough.
3) Cheap noise filters are no good. I have one in my audio input and it failed. Not completely but annoyingly in an intermittent manner.
Unfortunately the filter failure was a late diagnosis. I thought it was the equalizer glitching. Soooo I ended up buying a regular stereo receiver.
Like all technology, things have changed in the 2 years since I installed the stereo system. You can now get stereo receivers that are "media" receivers. They don't play CD's which works for me with the vertical mounting in the console. With the lack of CD'S play capability the unit is much shallower which might have some benefits.
I found a JVC unit for $60. It has built in Bluetooth and outputs for front and rear channels. The rear channels can be set to subwoofer which is perfect for my system. It also has the typical audio cable port on the front as well as a USB port. I've also seen a Pioneer unit with similar specs on sale for $50.
I'm in the process of installing this now and will report back how it all goes.
I will be selling the equalizer I had since it wasn't faulty after all. Along with the Bluetooth antenna thing I had as well.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Nice! Thanks to both of you! I have been browsing amazon and come up with some pretty cool stuff.
Yeah there really are neat ways to do stereos. Some of the marine stuff has neat setups.
I'd like to find a way to do steering wheel controls. I think to do that I would need a stereo receiver that permits it. This JVC unit does have a wire for factory steering wheel controls.
I'd like to find a way to do steering wheel controls. I think to do that I would need a stereo receiver that permits it. This JVC unit does have a wire for factory steering wheel controls.
In case anyone is curious, here's a picture that shows the depth of the receiver.
A buddy of mine has been using our shop to do an axle swap, 10blt to Dana 60. He bought my gears, carrier, and locker after I installed the ARB. Anyway, had to take a picture of the tie rod on the 10blt he removed.
Also grabbed a couple pictures of his shock tabs. This was a setup that allowed him to mount shocks on top of the axle with factory push/pull steering.
Kinda medieval looking, but they got the job done.
Also grabbed a couple pictures of his shock tabs. This was a setup that allowed him to mount shocks on top of the axle with factory push/pull steering.
Kinda medieval looking, but they got the job done.
I also installed "new" brake calipers. I had picked a pair up before Blazer Bash, but didn't install them because I felt like "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". My buddy I mentioned above didn't get calipers with his Dana 60 so I decided to install my new calipers so he could use my originals. One of the calipers was no good. The piston didn't move hardly at all and was dragging hard on the rotor causing my brakes to get hot. Sad thing is it was even an AC Delco unit.
During this process I learned some tips about installing the brake pads on Dana 60 calipers. Guess I never bothered to read the directions before. First thing is the inside pads need these little spring clips on the bottom tab:
I learned about this after I noticed a clicking noise coming from the front wheels. Someone had to tell me what the deal was. So the spring clip keeps the pad from rattling around. In my defense the pads that came on the axle when I bought it 9yrs ago were missing these clips, so I've been running without them for some time.
And the other source of the clicking can be from the outer pads. The metal tabs have to be pinched down on the calipers.
Funny when the simple stuff gets overlooked.
While I was replacing calipers, I replaced the brake lines with a new pair from ORD. At some point back in the history of this thread I posted about one of my brake lines getting snagged against the tire. It wore the outer covering off the line and also a surprising amount of rubber off the inside of the tire. The problem is the banjo fitting is square and doesn't allow the line to be clocked away from the tire.
Picture below shows the wear on the inside of the tire and also what I did to try and keep the line away from the tire.
The ORD banjo fitting allows them to be clocked however you'd like:
The other thing I like is the frame end is threaded and comes with a nut so I can capture the line in the frame like it was from the factory.
Before the line was just kinda "floating" in the hole.
I also installed new shock tabs. Since installing the Bilstein shocks, they have been maxed out at full droop. The Bilstein shocks are 1" shorter than the Doetsch Tech shocks I was running. I ran limiting straps at Blazer Bash to keep the shocks safe, but the straps got tore up on the fender. So I installed taller shock tabs on the axle.
During this process I learned some tips about installing the brake pads on Dana 60 calipers. Guess I never bothered to read the directions before. First thing is the inside pads need these little spring clips on the bottom tab:
I learned about this after I noticed a clicking noise coming from the front wheels. Someone had to tell me what the deal was. So the spring clip keeps the pad from rattling around. In my defense the pads that came on the axle when I bought it 9yrs ago were missing these clips, so I've been running without them for some time.
And the other source of the clicking can be from the outer pads. The metal tabs have to be pinched down on the calipers.
Funny when the simple stuff gets overlooked.
While I was replacing calipers, I replaced the brake lines with a new pair from ORD. At some point back in the history of this thread I posted about one of my brake lines getting snagged against the tire. It wore the outer covering off the line and also a surprising amount of rubber off the inside of the tire. The problem is the banjo fitting is square and doesn't allow the line to be clocked away from the tire.
Picture below shows the wear on the inside of the tire and also what I did to try and keep the line away from the tire.
The ORD banjo fitting allows them to be clocked however you'd like:
The other thing I like is the frame end is threaded and comes with a nut so I can capture the line in the frame like it was from the factory.
Before the line was just kinda "floating" in the hole.
I also installed new shock tabs. Since installing the Bilstein shocks, they have been maxed out at full droop. The Bilstein shocks are 1" shorter than the Doetsch Tech shocks I was running. I ran limiting straps at Blazer Bash to keep the shocks safe, but the straps got tore up on the fender. So I installed taller shock tabs on the axle.
I didnt realize you had air bumps. Where are the go fast videos 
Yeah Wade helped me put them on last year after my steering ram was bent hitting the engine crossmember.
Don't have any video. I'm almost always trail leader so no one gets any footage of me. And I'm usually more slow and steady.
Don't have any video. I'm almost always trail leader so no one gets any footage of me. And I'm usually more slow and steady.
While I was replacing calipers, I replaced the brake lines with a new pair from ORD. At some point back in the history of this thread I posted about one of my brake lines getting snagged against the tire. It wore the outer covering off the line and also a surprising amount of rubber off the inside of the tire. The problem is the banjo fitting is square and doesn't allow the line to be clocked away from the tire.
The ORD banjo fitting allows them to be clocked however you'd like:
The other thing I like is the frame end is threaded and comes with a nut so I can capture the line in the frame like it was from the factory.
Before the line was just kinda "floating" in the hole.
I also installed new shock tabs. Since installing the Bilstein shocks, they have been maxed out at full droop. The Bilstein shocks are 1" shorter than the Doetsch Tech shocks I was running. I ran limiting straps at Blazer Bash to keep the shocks safe, but the straps got tore up on the fender. So I installed taller shock tabs on the axle.
We've had a few customers complain about not having the OE "square block" deal, it's always been puzzling to me how that does anything but hurt in an aftermarket application (see your previous brakelines).
Well I've been so pleased I've not had any trail damage to the bed, and only a broken door handle up until Saturday. We ended up on the snow run from hell I'm calling snowmageddon. Day took 24hrs from doorstep to doorstep. over 18hrs on the trail and only about 2.5hrs moving according to my GPS log. Due to the slick conditions and a tight trail with narrow switchbacks, I got my first serious damage.
The above really bums me out. I mean we did buy a truck that is a little rough so it wasn't a huge deal if it got a little beat up. I'm hoping to employ some body repair methods passed along to me from 70jimmy to fix the dents as best as possible. The busted off door handle really gets me. Never had that happen in the K5, but this is the second time I've had to replace a door handle on this truck.
Mechanically the truck performed great! Loved the ARB. Kept it off to try and minimize the sideways sliding and then I could turn it on and get good traction. I only heard the compressor kick on once to recharge so not leaking air. Never had to worry about the truck leaving us stranded. Used the hell out of the winch even pulling myself and an FJ40 at one point.
The only complaint I have (aside from beating the truck up a little) is the ass end really likes to slide sideways. Ultimately ended up breaking my winch rope trying to recover from a rear end slide off the trail. I wonder if it's because it's light compared to the front. I also wonder if it's because it has the Detroit so it's locked all the time which results in sideways sliding if the tires loose traction.
Oh and I did have a point on the drive home where I thought maybe the truck was going to let me down. The motor started making a racket. I thought it was a spark plug issue again, but my cousin thought it sounded like lifters. He asked if I might be a quart low, and sure enough we added a quart and the motor was fine.
The above really bums me out. I mean we did buy a truck that is a little rough so it wasn't a huge deal if it got a little beat up. I'm hoping to employ some body repair methods passed along to me from 70jimmy to fix the dents as best as possible. The busted off door handle really gets me. Never had that happen in the K5, but this is the second time I've had to replace a door handle on this truck.
Mechanically the truck performed great! Loved the ARB. Kept it off to try and minimize the sideways sliding and then I could turn it on and get good traction. I only heard the compressor kick on once to recharge so not leaking air. Never had to worry about the truck leaving us stranded. Used the hell out of the winch even pulling myself and an FJ40 at one point.
The only complaint I have (aside from beating the truck up a little) is the ass end really likes to slide sideways. Ultimately ended up breaking my winch rope trying to recover from a rear end slide off the trail. I wonder if it's because it's light compared to the front. I also wonder if it's because it has the Detroit so it's locked all the time which results in sideways sliding if the tires loose traction.
Oh and I did have a point on the drive home where I thought maybe the truck was going to let me down. The motor started making a racket. I thought it was a spark plug issue again, but my cousin thought it sounded like lifters. He asked if I might be a quart low, and sure enough we added a quart and the motor was fine.
