I was hoping it was a silver nugget.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I remember reading several reviews of intake manifolds commenting about rough castings. Don't remember if any were this specific manifold but maybe it's a common theme with today's Chinese produced manifolds.
The casting is actually pretty good. This particular piece was stuck to a runner like it was picked up in a parts washer or something.
Still a good idea to shine a light in the openings. I never would have thought to and something like that could have wreaked a little havoc on the valve train.
So in discussing thoughts on whether or not I should get a new oil pan, I was looking at oil pumps. I'm wondering if I should put in a new high-volume/hi-pressure in the motor while I have it apart?
Unfortunately the oil pressure gauge didn't work in the donor truck so I don't know what the oil pressure was before pulling the motor.
Unfortunately the oil pressure gauge didn't work in the donor truck so I don't know what the oil pressure was before pulling the motor.
Absolutely! I wish I would have.
It is on my list of things to do this winter, of course mine is in the truck but shouldn't`t be to bad.
I figure it would be easier to do out of the truck.
Much...
I'd replace the pump while it's out but I'm not sure I'd spring for the high pressure unit. Remember pressure is a product of both the pump and the bearing clearance. Even if you are squeezing it more to build pressure at the pump, with leaving the bearing clearances alone (having some wear on them to start with) you might not be able to net the higher pressure you were shooting for. I might be thinking about that the wrong way so if I'm off base I'm open for correction.
I'd replace it with a stock spec and tack the pickup to the pump and call it done.
I'd replace it with a stock spec and tack the pickup to the pump and call it done.
Is 1800RPM on the drill the same as 1800RPM if the engine is running? I would need to find a gauge. Be cool if I could find on to thread straight in the port that had the factory sender.
yes
Yeah a dewalt drill can hit the pressure limit
I see I can get a test gauge from Harbor Freight for about $30. Whether I replace the pump or not, I'm thinking it would be good to know what it is before I make any changes.
Best bet is a new quality pump, not a high volume or pressure. Part two of that, make sure to smooth and clean out casting stuff from all the drain back holes in the heads and block. Smooth and radius the oil passages, and add a windage tray. All of that will really help a system maintain oil volume and pressure without the problems associated with a high out put pump. Oddly enough, doing what I've outlined, will net you some horse power. While a high out pump without the other mods will actually cost you power.
Also be careful with high volume. There are stories/old wives tales of the volume cleaning out the pan before the oil can find its way back down and starving the pump and top end of new oil.
+1
I've ALWAYS used high volume pumps on my big blocks (3 since '87) and never had any issue. The smoothing and radiusing is a good idea but only for a complete tear down, I doubt you'd notice any gain from a windage tray in a fat truck.
Too bad pictures never seem to show the true depth of the situation.
