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CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Then we have been doing a good job.
Took the truck out on a snow run yesterday with the local club.
I runs so well, especially on the one good tank. It got me to thinking about my 454 TBI plans. I was budgeting to replace all of the sensors; coolant temp, MAP, knock, O2, IAC, TPS, and ESC. Couple of them I have to do regardless because I don't have them for the 454 throttle body; TPS & IAC. I need to do a 3-wire O2 sensor with the headers. I already replaced the knock sensor because it's not hooked up on my 350 so I don't know if it even works. Plus it would difficult to install in the truck. Coolant sensor is so cheap it seems a little silly not to install a new one.
So I'm wondering if I should just use the MAP and ESC off the 350TBI since I know they work. You know, "if it ain't broke don't fix it" principle.
And obligatory snow run pictures.
I runs so well, especially on the one good tank. It got me to thinking about my 454 TBI plans. I was budgeting to replace all of the sensors; coolant temp, MAP, knock, O2, IAC, TPS, and ESC. Couple of them I have to do regardless because I don't have them for the 454 throttle body; TPS & IAC. I need to do a 3-wire O2 sensor with the headers. I already replaced the knock sensor because it's not hooked up on my 350 so I don't know if it even works. Plus it would difficult to install in the truck. Coolant sensor is so cheap it seems a little silly not to install a new one.
So I'm wondering if I should just use the MAP and ESC off the 350TBI since I know they work. You know, "if it ain't broke don't fix it" principle.
And obligatory snow run pictures.
Agree no reason to
If they are cheap why not then keep the used ones as spares?
They are somewhat expensive for some of them. Would definitely keep if they are good, but they are working. I'd put em back in
Agreed, have never priced out Tbi sensors.
The (2) I'm thinking could be reused are $50 to $60 each.
The distributor is new from trouble I had in the summer of '15 so I'll swap it over from the 350. For the life of me I can't remember if I replaced the coil. I may get a new one as they are only about $30.
a spare coil is good to have in the truck, I probably wouldn't replace the other TBI sensors either.
The nice thing is that short of one or maybe two of the sensors, you will still run...
I think that known good is better than new in box.
Run what you brought, keep new spares for later if need be.
I think that known good is better than new in box.
Run what you brought, keep new spares for later if need be.
On the other hand, having known good spares is good too.
If you have the time and money and desire to confirm all new sensors are good and working while still sitting in the driveway, well, then keep your old ones as spares...
If you have the time and money and desire to confirm all new sensors are good and working while still sitting in the driveway, well, then keep your old ones as spares...
I was thinking i need to figure out which sensor would not allow the truck run if they failed. Those would be the ones to carry spares for.
I'm thinking since my knock sensor isn't connected it probably isn't one to worry about.
I'm thinking since my knock sensor isn't connected it probably isn't one to worry about.
I know that in certain applications if the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor takes a dive it will cause a no run. Key is certain applications though, I do not not know for sure if a GM TBI is on that list...
Coolant temp can cause a no start if it thinks the motor is much hotter than it is...
The engine computer gets the "cam position sensor" feed from the pickup in the dizzy...
Idle air / O2 / throttle position would only cause piss poor performance/crappy idle if they died...
Coolant temp can cause a no start if it thinks the motor is much hotter than it is...
The engine computer gets the "cam position sensor" feed from the pickup in the dizzy...
Idle air / O2 / throttle position would only cause piss poor performance/crappy idle if they died...
I haven't done any research on this yet, but it came up in conversation this past weekend. Are there any thoughts on knock sensor issues while driving on trails? Basically the roughness causing false knock sensor readings. My knock sensor isn't hooked up so I have no experience with this.
Along those lines, could I put a switch in the wire to the knock sensor and kill that signal while on the trail but still use the knock sensor on the road? I'm assuming the knock sensor only sends a signal when there is a knock. I'm assuming this because I don't have any error codes with my knock sensor not connected now so it doesn't seem the ECM cares that the knock sensor is disconnected.
Along those lines, could I put a switch in the wire to the knock sensor and kill that signal while on the trail but still use the knock sensor on the road? I'm assuming the knock sensor only sends a signal when there is a knock. I'm assuming this because I don't have any error codes with my knock sensor not connected now so it doesn't seem the ECM cares that the knock sensor is disconnected.
Unless you are holding it to the floor in the trail, likely never get enough RPM for the timing to advance far enough for it to come into play
so no rock bouncing WOT and you're good.
