CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
New knock sensor home:

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Drilled out the treaded hole that was there and tapped it for 1/4NPT-18. This is the hole we discussed possibly being used for dipstick retention at some point.
 
Nothing more "fun" than drilling into a nice engine block.... :screwy:
 
looks good.

Fun rotating a Iron head BBC on the stand eh?
I've had it upside down for while. I wasn't truly ready to flip it over but I was rotating it to see how hard it would be and once it started rolling over there was no stopping it.

However I will be using the assistance of a forklift to do that. It was all I could do to roll a 350 back right side up. I'm afraid I would end up tipping the entire stand over. I also purchased an engine cradle from Summit to use to hold the motor the rest of the time.

Also, I looked over the motor in the truck now and I was wrong, the knock sensor is indeed connected. Don't know why I thought it wasn't. :dunno:
 
I had the heads off so I could rotate the shortblock, otherwise there is no way I would try to rotate it. The heads are like 80lbs each, and the stock manifold is 40sh+

Good call on the block cradle.
 
How much oil does that pan hold? Looks huge!
The pan by itself is 7qt. 75% of the reason I bought it is because it will give me an extra 1" of clearance for the engine crossmember. I'm going to build a new crossmember to pickup some additional clearance for the high steer tie rod and more specifically the steering ram. The springs will handle 5" of up travel but right now I have them limited to 2". I'm hoping to gain closer to 2" between the oil pan and redesigning the crossmember. Then I won't have to listen to the bumps hitting all the time.
 
I had the heads off so I could rotate the shortblock, otherwise there is no way I would try to rotate it. The heads are like 80lbs each, and the stock manifold is 40sh+

Good call on the block cradle.
That's actually why I swapped out the intake first. I figured having the aluminum intake on would at least minimize some of the weight. I figure even just 25lbs wouldn't hurt.
 
Haven't you heard that saying, "nothing is free".

Besides, the engine cradle only cost me $33.
 
New knock sensor home:
Drilled out the treaded hole that was there and tapped it for 1/4NPT-18. This is the hole we discussed possibly being used for dipstick retention at some point.
Did you do any testing, or are just comfortable with it?
 
Actually I forgot all about doing the testing. I may still do that since I have time.

It did occur to me today a person could also do something with one of the freeze plugs to install the knock sensor in.
 
Come on. To rotate motor on an engine stand you just reach down and bear hug it then rotate. That's easy. Tricky part is holding it there while you insert the pin.
 
If you want to test the knock sensor I believe your meter needs to be on hertz, at least one I was testing the over day had to be. Then give the block a smack with a soft face hammer.
 
Continued putting things together. I haven't had good luck with the o-ring style thermostat housings so I went with a factory type. I did find a gasket that I think will work very well.

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Rented harmonic balancer tool to install the balancer. Worked really well with my big crescent.

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And lastly the water pump.

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The only catch is the crank pulley from the old balancer won't work with the new balancer.

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On the old balancer that raised area fit into the middle of a recess in the balancer. The new balancer doesn't have the recessed area. The hole in the center of the pulley is larger than the washer you can see below.

balancer.jpg


I suppose I could just cut the lip off the back of the pulley.
 
No help on the pulley, but are you still looking for a 4L80?
 
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