CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Might be. We're looking for a camper trailer 20' or shorter. I started worrying how well the 454 could tow a decent camper. Found plenty to ease my concerns in power regards but now I'm concerned about the trans. LOL :doah:

However it will have to be free because I'm wiped out from the motor costs. Plus I'll need a controller. I'm kinda thinking the 4l80 will be next spring's project. I did tell Nicole that maybe we should set aside $1000 from the camper budget for a trans.

I'm also spending money on this courtesy of ORD:

20170201_113931.jpg

For the 14blt
 
Nice. What's in the back now?


I'll inquire what he wants for the tranny just for giggles
 
I used to tow an 8000 lb bumper pull toy hauler with my bone stock '77 camper special with a 454 and th400. Granted it was a reg cab and 2 WD so lots lighter than yours. It did just fine even in the mtns.
 
Yeah I think long term the 4L80 is needed. The 700 has held up well. I know he said it has some years on it
 
I used to tow an 8000 lb bumper pull toy hauler with my bone stock '77 camper special with a 454 and th400. Granted it was a reg cab and 2 WD so lots lighter than yours. It did just fine even in the mtns.
Yeah that's the kinda stuff I'm hearing that makes me feel good about the motor.

When I was a kid, kindergarten thru 5th grade, we had a farm and also raised sheep on a family farm in northeastern CO. We hauled sheep 200 miles to the sale barn and using a 25' gooseneck with a double deck full of sheep. Dad tried doing it with a 75 K15 with a 350 but it had a hell of a time with any hills. The dealer let him try out a 454 dually and it wasn't long before we had a brand new crew cab dually 454. He said it was a night and day difference.

I will have to keep an eye on the trans to see how it does. Might have to take things easier even if the motor isn't struggling. Also thinking I may have to use the work truck for pulling the trailer if it seems like it's going to be an issue.
 
I had more then enough power towing Twinkie with mine. Would go faster then I wanted to which the air bags will fix the wanted to part.
 
Yeah that's the kinda stuff I'm hearing that makes me feel good about the motor.

When I was a kid, kindergarten thru 5th grade, we had a farm and also raised sheep on a family farm in northeastern CO. We hauled sheep 200 miles to the sale barn and using a 25' gooseneck with a double deck full of sheep. Dad tried doing it with a 75 K15 with a 350 but it had a hell of a time with any hills. The dealer let him try out a 454 dually and it wasn't long before we had a brand new crew cab dually 454. He said it was a night and day difference.

I will have to keep an eye on the trans to see how it does. Might have to take things easier even if the motor isn't struggling. Also thinking I may have to use the work truck for pulling the trailer if it seems like it's going to be an issue.
Talk to Stephen about which Amsoil you should use in the 700, then get a few quarts of the amsoil slick shift racing trans fluid. It's their equivalent of the Old Ford type F fluid and is really sticky. It firms shifts up really nice and seems to help clutches stay engaged. That's all we ran in the race car and our Trans guy was always happy with how things looked when he tore our stuff apart.
 
Talk to Stephen about which Amsoil you should use in the 700, then get a few quarts of the amsoil slick shift racing trans fluid. It's their equivalent of the Old Ford type F fluid and is really sticky. It firms shifts up really nice and seems to help clutches stay engaged. That's all we ran in the race car and our Trans guy was always happy with how things looked when he tore our stuff apart.
Sounds like a good idea. I haven't touched the fluid since I installed the trans in the K5 about 8 or 9 years ago.

Time to swap the SM465 back in!

Martin
Wouldn't do 465, might consider a newer 5spd before doing a 465.
 
I got the thermostat with the 3/16" holes so the bypass hose isn't needed. I forgot part of the reason I was posting about the housing gasket was to mention using the thermostat with bypass holes.
 
A big block bypass flows a lot of coolant. I guess if other people are doing it without issue.

Martin
 
Some guys still have issues without the bypass hose, others say it's fine. I looked into this back when I did a water pump swap and decided to leave it OE and bought a water neck with NPT ports for sensors/switches.
 
I read thru a couple of the hot rod forums and didn't find anyone having trouble with just using the bypass holes. If I find I need the hose, I can use the cylinder head port for the temperature gauge.
 
I also figured out I made an error. When I put the oil pump in, I did not install the pump driveshaft. The distributor is not installed so I figured it would just fall out like the old one. However now I can't drop the new shaft in from the top because the sleeve is too big around. So the old shaft must have just fallen out of the sleeve. :doah: So I guess I'll be dropping the pan and removing the pump. :1zhelp:
 

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