Uh, yeah, top of this page...
But you keep distracting us with this big block thing...
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
That's because of the "made in China " sticker that it will most likely have...
It's Summit brand with the same part number as the TransDapt pulley. But I'm sure you're correct. I will check the local pick n pull in the meantime and if they have a pulley I can use, I'll just exchange the Summit pulley for some other engine parts I need.
I agree, cheap is a relative term. Hell I gave one to Larry. That's cheap. But it was a take out of a customer's unit we put a new one in. It was popping out of 5th gear. It was noisy so he ended up taking it out for a NOS unit he found online. He kept it and ended up using it in his burb after putting in a new tailshaft and some other parts. So cheap still cost him money in the long run.
Like I said I've got other items to cross off my list prior to the desert trip. So even if one fell in my lap it won't go in before that. Still other things I need to make that work, hydro pedals, flywheel, bellhousing, clutch and deal with the tune to the 5.3. I keep my eyes open for a good deal and if the time is right I'll go for it. The plan has been if the 700 takes a dump the fix will be to go 4500.
Finished connecting the ARB today. Had a bit of a snafu. Apparently I lost one of the push-to-connect fittings. Luckily I was able to use a fitting that was replaced by the HD line kit.
The fitting that the blue tube connects to usually uses an o-ring but that wouldn't work in this case. Luckily the threads seemed to tighten up like a pipe thread. I put some thread sealant on the threads and tightened it down as snug as I felt comfortable with and it didn't bottom out. There was no leak on the test so I think it's going to work.
In earlier ARB discussion, I had been concerned about the length of hose supplying the locker. When I installed the front ARB, I mounted the solenoid manifold up on the front fender for ease of installation; I was not thinking I'd be getting a rear ARB in the near future. I could have either relocated the manifold & solenoids our run line all the way from the rear axle to the front fender just above the front axle. I went with the second option but I was concerned with the locker being slow to actuate.
Turns out not to be a problem. I ended up with just under 20ft of air line; the full length of the tubing provided with the locker. As soon as I hit the switch, I heard the locker click so there was no noticeable delay. It probably helps that I have a large air system with a 3gal tank. If you were running the small compressor that has the manifold mounted on it, it might be more of an issue.
Nice thing is the ARB switches use the same Carling style that I use. So I just pop one of my actuators off and pop on ARB's.
The fitting that the blue tube connects to usually uses an o-ring but that wouldn't work in this case. Luckily the threads seemed to tighten up like a pipe thread. I put some thread sealant on the threads and tightened it down as snug as I felt comfortable with and it didn't bottom out. There was no leak on the test so I think it's going to work.
In earlier ARB discussion, I had been concerned about the length of hose supplying the locker. When I installed the front ARB, I mounted the solenoid manifold up on the front fender for ease of installation; I was not thinking I'd be getting a rear ARB in the near future. I could have either relocated the manifold & solenoids our run line all the way from the rear axle to the front fender just above the front axle. I went with the second option but I was concerned with the locker being slow to actuate.
Turns out not to be a problem. I ended up with just under 20ft of air line; the full length of the tubing provided with the locker. As soon as I hit the switch, I heard the locker click so there was no noticeable delay. It probably helps that I have a large air system with a 3gal tank. If you were running the small compressor that has the manifold mounted on it, it might be more of an issue.
Nice thing is the ARB switches use the same Carling style that I use. So I just pop one of my actuators off and pop on ARB's.
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Didn't have time to fix this today, but it needs done.
The diff cover hangs down a little over a 1/4" past the diff.
The diff cover hangs down a little over a 1/4" past the diff.
Correct. It also comes with a push-to-connect fitting also. Unfortunately I lost the fitting that came with the locker. I think I must have not gotten it out of the box.
slick....
Your switch panel is super nice! 
meh, it'll be fine. What could possibly go wrong...Didn't have time to fix this today, but it needs done.
The diff cover hangs down a little over a 1/4" past the diff.
x2! That makes mine look like poopy...Your switch panel is super nice!
After seeing the old cover, there's no way that would survive.meh, it'll be fine. What could possibly go wrong...
I also forgot to expand on the air line routing. In earlier ARB discussion, I had been concerned about the length of hose supplying the locker. When I installed the front ARB, I mounted the solenoid manifold up on the front fender for ease of installation; I was not thinking I'd be getting a rear ARB in the near future. I could have either relocated the manifold & solenoids our run line all the way from the rear axle to the front fender just above the front axle. I went with the second option but I was concerned with the locker being slow to actuate.
Turns out not to be a problem. I ended up with just under 20ft of air line; the full length of the tubing provided with the locker. As soon as I hit the switch, I heard the locker click so there was no noticeable delay. It probably helps that I have a large air system with a 3gal tank. If you were running the small compressor that has the manifold mounted on it, it might be more of an issue.
Diff cover peel back really nice when they hang down like that. First Pritchet run did that to mine.
Picked this up. Going to mount it in the grill like the 70's trucks. Always liked that about those trucks.
I also have to confess I'm starting to sway back to doing FiTech. Just so much about it appeals to me.
Part of the reason is because we're looking to buy my oldest son a fixer-upper that he can work on until he gets his license. The car he really likes right now is an 81 Camaro and I'm thinking the TBI350 I was going to put in the crew cab would be great for that Camaro. I would need the computer and TBI harness to do it so I'm thinking if I put FiTech in the crew cab I can pull the TBI stuff to use in his car.
I still haven't totally convinced myself so I'm still collecting 454 TBI parts where I can. Plus I figure if for some reason I totally hate the FiTech I could convert to the TBI if I have all the parts on hand.
The biggest thing that's held me back from FiTech is the fuel system but I think I have that figured out. I could keep the dual tanks and pick up a selector valve rated for 65psi. Then use an EP381 in each tank. The only fuel line I would need to add/replace is from the frame to the FiTech. I'm going to have to replace the passenger tank pump anyway. Also still thinking some about a burb tank behind the axle.
Part of the reason is because we're looking to buy my oldest son a fixer-upper that he can work on until he gets his license. The car he really likes right now is an 81 Camaro and I'm thinking the TBI350 I was going to put in the crew cab would be great for that Camaro. I would need the computer and TBI harness to do it so I'm thinking if I put FiTech in the crew cab I can pull the TBI stuff to use in his car.
I still haven't totally convinced myself so I'm still collecting 454 TBI parts where I can. Plus I figure if for some reason I totally hate the FiTech I could convert to the TBI if I have all the parts on hand.
The biggest thing that's held me back from FiTech is the fuel system but I think I have that figured out. I could keep the dual tanks and pick up a selector valve rated for 65psi. Then use an EP381 in each tank. The only fuel line I would need to add/replace is from the frame to the FiTech. I'm going to have to replace the passenger tank pump anyway. Also still thinking some about a burb tank behind the axle.
I feel like a 40 gallon burb tank is probably the best overall for the long run...just more work with running new lines (really long lines on a really long crew cab), plus moving the filler door, and all that.
Have you thought about doing the dual tank setup like mine? Cause if I think about it right, you will still have to run all new lines from the tanks to the new selector valve, and then from the selector valve to the FiTech unit cause the TBI lines are not rated at all to handle the pressure that the EP381 pump will put out. That's why I decided to do my setup. Just run new lines/new pump from one tank, and use the factory TBI pump in the other tank to a manual switch to fill up the main tank. Still have 40 gallon capable. Only downside is the fact that you have to pay attention a little more to the storage tank and turn the pump off when it gets low, but that is it. I still feel like this is a better way to go (if you are not going to do the burb tank) then dealing with a selector valve...but that's just me
Have you thought about doing the dual tank setup like mine? Cause if I think about it right, you will still have to run all new lines from the tanks to the new selector valve, and then from the selector valve to the FiTech unit cause the TBI lines are not rated at all to handle the pressure that the EP381 pump will put out. That's why I decided to do my setup. Just run new lines/new pump from one tank, and use the factory TBI pump in the other tank to a manual switch to fill up the main tank. Still have 40 gallon capable. Only downside is the fact that you have to pay attention a little more to the storage tank and turn the pump off when it gets low, but that is it. I still feel like this is a better way to go (if you are not going to do the burb tank) then dealing with a selector valve...but that's just me
I have thought about it. I just can't get the picture of @bent72 running down the trail to shut his transfer pump off after turning it on and walking away from it. Everyone telling him gas was leaking out of his tank, etc. I can't imagine the humiliation that must have caused.
So here's my question about the fuel lines. The FiTech is pressure regulated to about 58psi. Rubber fuel injection hose is rated to 225psi and has been used for long time, why wouldn't that work with the proper fuel injection clamps? I know people are using the higher pressure tank selector valve with EP381 pumps for LS swaps and the only way to connect to the tank selector valve is a barbed fitting with hose clamps. The majority of the line from the tank selector valve to the steel braided lines is hard line. The only spot I'm a little concerned about is the small section of rubber hose that runs from the tank selector valve to the hard lines. It's clamped on the tank selector but factory crimped to the hard line. I have no idea what that bit of rubber line might be rated for.
That's what I've been contemplating.
I did some measuring for a 40 gallon burb tank and it would end up a little bit over my rear axle. So I'm not sure that will work.
So here's my question about the fuel lines. The FiTech is pressure regulated to about 58psi. Rubber fuel injection hose is rated to 225psi and has been used for long time, why wouldn't that work with the proper fuel injection clamps? I know people are using the higher pressure tank selector valve with EP381 pumps for LS swaps and the only way to connect to the tank selector valve is a barbed fitting with hose clamps. The majority of the line from the tank selector valve to the steel braided lines is hard line. The only spot I'm a little concerned about is the small section of rubber hose that runs from the tank selector valve to the hard lines. It's clamped on the tank selector but factory crimped to the hard line. I have no idea what that bit of rubber line might be rated for.
That's what I've been contemplating.
I did some measuring for a 40 gallon burb tank and it would end up a little bit over my rear axle. So I'm not sure that will work.
