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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
How do you all NP205 folks usually seal up your cases. Just gaskets or gaskets coated with a light layer of RTV or...?
 
np205 need gaskets for end gap play setting .

i use tack-n-seal thin red goop like old indian cement .

also make sure to line up drain holes for the gaskets on seal retainers .

other member just found out the gasket for his fig 8 was to thin . good thing he had the thicker one for a correct fit and thickness .

dont forget my 203/205 build up pic by pic https://ck5.com/forums/threads/4l80...05-ord-doubler-3-sticked-its-all-done.253000/
 
I like the aerosol hi tack sprayed on both sides of paper gaskets. I have always been told never to use silicone and a gasket cuz it just acts like lube to help them spit out of place when tightening. And I have always had bad luck with it. I also like to use 3m spray adhesive when I need to glue a gasket in place for certain applications. The hi tack comes apart better though.
 
I see lots of great suggestions. I use 'right stuff' or Loctite silicone for gaskets like that, but I smear it with my finger so that it is almost translucent.

I don't use hi tack much due to having to remove a couple of Cummins air compressors with a 3 ft bar, after using hi tack to fix the leak before. It didn't leak, but when the compressor died, not easy to remove.
 
+all the other guys.

I like Permatex high temp and if gasket is needed then permatex on each side of case with gasket in between. Let it dry before fill if you have the time.

Never tried 'right stuff'. The can looks badass! Theres nothing like having the foil bag thingys break on you when your trying to roll it up and squeeze more out.
 
"Right stuff" by permatex is THE one. Shits like 20 bucks a can now a days but it does not leak. Ever.
 
"Right stuff" by permatex is THE one. Shits like 20 bucks a can now a days but it does not leak. Ever.
I think I still have some right stuff left from the motor build.

+all the other guys.

I like Permatex high temp and if gasket is needed then permatex on each side of case with gasket in between. Let it dry before fill if you have the time.

Never tried 'right stuff'. The can looks badass! Theres nothing like having the foil bag thingys break on you when your trying to roll it up and squeeze more out.
That's usually how I end up getting more. Just poke a new hole each use. :rotfl:
 
I like the aerosol hi tack sprayed on both sides of paper gaskets. I have always been told never to use silicone and a gasket cuz it just acts like lube to help them spit out of place when tightening. And I have always had bad luck with it. I also like to use 3m spray adhesive when I need to glue a gasket in place for certain applications. The hi tack comes apart better though.

I use brush on gasket sealer, brown in color and some real nasty stuff to get on you. But it won’t leak.
I do have some Edelbrock brush on gasket stuff too.
 
np205 need gaskets for end gap play setting .

i use tack-n-seal thin red goop like old indian cement .

also make sure to line up drain holes for the gaskets on seal retainers .

other member just found out the gasket for his fig 8 was to thin . good thing he had the thicker one for a correct fit and thickness .

dont forget my 203/205 build up pic by pic https://ck5.com/forums/threads/4l80...05-ord-doubler-3-sticked-its-all-done.253000/
I'm sure I'll be referring to that thread once I'm putting it all together.

The Magnum Box includes the big input bearing and gaskets from ORD, so I should have the correct one. I was actually just reading the thread you're referring to.
 
So I have a plan on the shocks but that won't happen for a bit.

In the meantime making a little progress on the 4l80e/Magnum swap. I sent the speedo housing to ORD to have the spot made for a newer electronic VSS. I didn't know they offered the service until I was Google searching on where to locate the hole in the housing.

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They also supply a very nice little plug for the old speedo hole.

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I also got a new sensor and gaskets as part of the deal. ORD can also supply a tone wheel but I already have that covered courtesy of @skunked

I used our little pressure washer on the big bearing NP205 today.

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What it looked like before.

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I probably could have gotten it cleaner if I had one of those heated pressure washers.

One thing I noticed is there is not a metal tag on the case I'm using. The other NP205 I'm robbing the fixed output from has a metal tag on the front between the input and front output. Is that unusual?
 
Haven't really looked in that area yet. I'm mostly curious about the build date because this case is from an 80 with the slip yoke and the other case with the fixed yoke is from a 79. So I thought it would be interesting how close their dates of manufacture are.
 
I noticed while working on the NP205 case that if I have this clocked very flat there isn't much distance between the fill and drain holes. What's the usual trick for filling a clocked 205?

My NP241 is clocked but the fill hole is much higher and didn't seem to be affected as much by the rotation.
 
My 205 is clocked up 2", I poured the specified amount of oil in through the PTO cover opening. I may add a clear site tube to the rear cover at some point to have some kind of level reference since the plug isn't accurate anymore.
 
My 205 is clocked up 2", I poured the specified amount of oil in through the PTO cover opening. I may add a clear site tube to the rear cover at some point to have some kind of level reference since the plug isn't accurate anymore.
I am planning to do the clear tube as well. I didn't realize the PTO cover would be high enough; I haven't actually seen the case in the truck so I don't have good visual reference.

@nvrenuf is yours a 1-ton? I remember from my buddy's K30, the NP205 only hangs down about 3/4" below the frame rail. I'm kinda debating how much, if any, it needs to be clocked.
 

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