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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I don't know if this is possible, or even on your radar to care about or attempt, but to me it seems like in typical pavement pounding mode, ie, what position the levers will be in 90% of the time, they should be all lined up.

dunno, maybe just my own little OCD thing. I don't have triple shifters so I don't even know if that is remotely possible either. :dunno:
 
I don't know if this is possible, or even on your radar to care about or attempt, but to me it seems like in typical pavement pounding mode, ie, what position the levers will be in 90% of the time, they should be all lined up.

dunno, maybe just my own little OCD thing. I don't have triple shifters so I don't even know if that is remotely possible either. :dunno:

just the 205's should lineup IMO (assuming they are both in high/neutral/low). The crawl box operation is backwards compared to the 205 (low is forward/high is back) and the throw is different anyway.
 
When I install mine I was thinking of setting everything up in neutral and hoping there’d be some symmetry from that.
 
There are several places to fine tune the lever positions. I will do that once it's in the truck.

They will never line in 2Hi. The rear output will be in Hi but the front will be in Neutral. As skunked mentioned the Magnum is the opposite of the NP205 in regards to Hi & Lo. I could possibly adjust the cables enough to line up the levers in 2Hi but then they wouldn't line up when they're in the same gear which is a little odd I think. In theory all 3 should line up in Neutral but the Magnum doesn't really have a neutral, just kinda fake it by putting the lever in between gears.

I could "fix" the Magnum with a driver drop tcase. :D Or rotate the lever 180° but I'd have to do a different bracket for the cable.

I can get the levers more precise in the truck. Right now I don't know if they might be hitting the dash or console. I was mostly doing this to test the detents.
 
So problem with the big new radiator is the motor wouldn't warm up in the cold of winter. I made some radiator blocks that seem to be working just right.

View attachment 256067

I wanted them to be removable so if it was a warm day on the trail, I wouldn't have overheating issues. They are velcro'd to the grill. Wasn't sure how it would hold up but it stayed on there all day Saturday. Realistically the wind pressure will help hold them on.

You’re fancy. I just broke down a Crown Royal case box and shoved it between my radiator and my condenser.

Martin
 
Have you, or are you, clocking your 205 to get it flat with the frame or thereabouts?
 
that's a lot of beverage options.
They always seem to be full of something.

Good thing you know a good sticker guy to get a label made so it doesn't take 10 min of shifting to figure out what gear you are in.
I have plans....

You’re fancy. I just broke down a Crown Royal case box and shoved it between my radiator and my condenser.

Martin
I have cool scrap materials I can use to make stuff like that. It's a polystyrene plastic panel that comes in white. My primary goal was to make it easy to remove.

Have you, or are you, clocking your 205 to get it flat with the frame or thereabouts?
Yes, clocking it enough to be flush or just above the bottom of the frame rails. The 1-ton frame rails make that easier. My buddy's K30 has an NP205 and in factory form it only hangs down an 1" below the frame rails.

Exactly what I did. All my levers line up.
It is tempting but I'd have to make a bracket for that and I think I would need a longer cable. I will take a closer look at it today.

Honestly I would much rather take the other option to fixing this issue and put in a driver drop axle, aka high-pinion D60, but that would be a bit more work and cost than I'm willing to invest currently.
 

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