For this week it is.
Skid plate is done. Well done enough for now.
Want to add some angled pieces to the front and back to make a ramp.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Skid plate is done. Well done enough for now.
Want to add some angled pieces to the front and back to make a ramp.
Had to go big after the previous version bent. My name ain't "Bent89"
Why service u-joints when you can just buy a whole new driveshaft.
The maiden run was a success but not without some things to resolve.
I got a couple errors on the controller. Driving on the highway the controller would give a full pressure slip error and another error "rAtio High 9h". While on the trail it flashed up "OSS Failure" (Output Speed Sensor).
I did a visual of the OSS and didn't see anything wrong. Then later once we were driving home I realized the error was gone and I had a speed signal. So I'm not sure what that was about.
On the drive I realized the ratio high and full pressure slip errors only occurred when the speed hit exactly 65mph. I'm kinda thinking all these errors are glitches and I'm wondering if some of it could be related to the TPS. I was looking at the tables loaded in the controller and speed doesn't correlate to line pressure, it's related to the TPS and gear. However I believe it senses slip by comparing the input speed sensor to the OSS. Maybe the OSS is not functioning properly and that's why it senses slip.
I'm questioning the slip error because it didn't give any outward appearnce of slipping. Transmission ran nice and cool on the highway. Never felt any slip. Plus the fact that it came at exactly 65mph and never came in under hard acceleration like climbing the mountain passes.
And then there's that "ratio high" error which the manual explains as "Transmission gear ratio appears to be too high in at least one gear." How the heck is that possible? The USShift website has a nice step by step troubleshooting guide. The only check they have for the ratio high error is to put the controller in manual mode and see if the error goes away, but it didn't. So at this point I have to call them about it.
I feel like I need to get the TPS for the controller installed before getting too carried away with diagnosis. TPS signal plays a big role in the shift tables.
The other thing that happened was less than an hour from home. I was running about 70mph glanced in the rear view mirror and saw a huge plume of white smoke pouring out the back of my pickup. Pulled over and trans fluid was dripping from all over under the truck.
I found the rear output seal popped out. I was able to pry it back in. I knew from filling the case that i still had at least 2qts in it. I took back roads to the shop since it was about 30 minutes closer than home. I just drove slow because I wasn't sure the seal would stay. Plus I figured it needed to cool off.
Not 100% on the cause. I suspect I may have over filled the case. When I first had the noise issue that turned out to be driveshaft angle I had added 1.5qts on top of the original 2.5qts. I also figure running 70 might have been too much.
I have not checked the vent catch can to see if it has fluid. If it doesn't I'm going to assume that maybe the seal came out for some other reason.
I still had some what I'd call bearing noise all day that @Bent77 mentioned might be a bad output bearing. Maybe that had something to do with it.
Picture for the entertainment value.
I got a couple errors on the controller. Driving on the highway the controller would give a full pressure slip error and another error "rAtio High 9h". While on the trail it flashed up "OSS Failure" (Output Speed Sensor).
I did a visual of the OSS and didn't see anything wrong. Then later once we were driving home I realized the error was gone and I had a speed signal. So I'm not sure what that was about.
On the drive I realized the ratio high and full pressure slip errors only occurred when the speed hit exactly 65mph. I'm kinda thinking all these errors are glitches and I'm wondering if some of it could be related to the TPS. I was looking at the tables loaded in the controller and speed doesn't correlate to line pressure, it's related to the TPS and gear. However I believe it senses slip by comparing the input speed sensor to the OSS. Maybe the OSS is not functioning properly and that's why it senses slip.
I'm questioning the slip error because it didn't give any outward appearnce of slipping. Transmission ran nice and cool on the highway. Never felt any slip. Plus the fact that it came at exactly 65mph and never came in under hard acceleration like climbing the mountain passes.
And then there's that "ratio high" error which the manual explains as "Transmission gear ratio appears to be too high in at least one gear." How the heck is that possible? The USShift website has a nice step by step troubleshooting guide. The only check they have for the ratio high error is to put the controller in manual mode and see if the error goes away, but it didn't. So at this point I have to call them about it.
I feel like I need to get the TPS for the controller installed before getting too carried away with diagnosis. TPS signal plays a big role in the shift tables.
The other thing that happened was less than an hour from home. I was running about 70mph glanced in the rear view mirror and saw a huge plume of white smoke pouring out the back of my pickup. Pulled over and trans fluid was dripping from all over under the truck.
I found the rear output seal popped out. I was able to pry it back in. I knew from filling the case that i still had at least 2qts in it. I took back roads to the shop since it was about 30 minutes closer than home. I just drove slow because I wasn't sure the seal would stay. Plus I figured it needed to cool off.
Not 100% on the cause. I suspect I may have over filled the case. When I first had the noise issue that turned out to be driveshaft angle I had added 1.5qts on top of the original 2.5qts. I also figure running 70 might have been too much.
I have not checked the vent catch can to see if it has fluid. If it doesn't I'm going to assume that maybe the seal came out for some other reason.
I still had some what I'd call bearing noise all day that @Bent77 mentioned might be a bad output bearing. Maybe that had something to do with it.
Picture for the entertainment value.
Upon further inspection, there is no sign of fluid in the catch can for the vent. I suppose there's a chance the hose is kinked, but otherwise I'm not sure why the seal popped out.
One theory would be the vibration from having the driveshaft angles wrong started the seal walking out and it just slowly kept moving out all day. We are talking about nearly 15hrs of driving with a few short breaks.
I guess that's my only theory.
When I get some shop time I will check the hose. I figure I can pop it off the case and put some air thru it to make sure it breathes freely. Right now I'm figuring I will replace the ouput seal and I'm going to replace the output bearing for good measure.
One theory would be the vibration from having the driveshaft angles wrong started the seal walking out and it just slowly kept moving out all day. We are talking about nearly 15hrs of driving with a few short breaks.
I guess that's my only theory.
When I get some shop time I will check the hose. I figure I can pop it off the case and put some air thru it to make sure it breathes freely. Right now I'm figuring I will replace the ouput seal and I'm going to replace the output bearing for good measure.
That is a weird situation for sure. Glad you caught it before something really failed.Upon further inspection, there is no sign of fluid in the catch can for the vent. I suppose there's a chance the hose is kinked, but otherwise I'm not sure why the seal popped out.
One theory would be the vibration from having the driveshaft angles wrong started the seal walking out and it just slowly kept moving out all day. We are talking about nearly 15hrs of driving with a few short breaks.
I guess that's my only theory.
When I get some shop time I will check the hose. I figure I can pop it off the case and put some air thru it to make sure it breathes freely. Right now I'm figuring I will replace the ouput seal and I'm going to replace the output bearing for good measure.
I usually put a little silicone on the outside of those lip seals when i put them in to stop that potential leak path around the seal OD, might also give a little extra security against walking out?
What about blue loctite? I don't know if it would play well with the sealer that is on the outside of the seal, but maybe?
I've done silicone lots of times too.
I've done silicone lots of times too.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
You could try upping the vent tube size by a 1/32 or so too.
Loctite should work good, it's included in most Speed-i-Sleeve kits to use between the sleeve and seal surface.
just pop that sum-beech seal back in and rock it!
On a serious note...how did you like the magnum/205?
I always figured the paint looking coating on the outside of the seal was a sealant of come kind. I could add a little Right Stuff for assurance.
I did replace the seal, the Magnum came with all new seals and gaskets, even the rubber star washer for the yoke nut. It was long enough ago I don't remember how hard it was to get into the retainer. I will say it was pretty easy to pry it back in on the side of the road. So if it was tight to begin with it certainly isn't anymore.
The vent tube is 3/8". If it is restricted it's probably the 1/8" NPT hole in the housing. I was thinking I should also be able to put the air hose onto the housing just to be sure it didn't somehow get plugged up.
The only thing I didn't touch on the NP205 was the front output. Hence why I found the flange nut was loose. All other seals and gaskets were replaced. I did notice the front output was leaking before I tightened the nut, but now it seems to be good.
I did replace the seal, the Magnum came with all new seals and gaskets, even the rubber star washer for the yoke nut. It was long enough ago I don't remember how hard it was to get into the retainer. I will say it was pretty easy to pry it back in on the side of the road. So if it was tight to begin with it certainly isn't anymore.
The vent tube is 3/8". If it is restricted it's probably the 1/8" NPT hole in the housing. I was thinking I should also be able to put the air hose onto the housing just to be sure it didn't somehow get plugged up.
The only thing I didn't touch on the NP205 was the front output. Hence why I found the flange nut was loose. All other seals and gaskets were replaced. I did notice the front output was leaking before I tightened the nut, but now it seems to be good.
You know I had always wondered how I would use a double reduction setup. I figured downhill crawling was obvious but I also figured there had to be more to it than that. I decided a short way into the trail that I should just put it into double-low and see how it worked. It was amazing how much more capable the truck is. I only used the lockers at the double whammy and that was done preemptively. There's so much more finesse and control. Obviously it was really nice coming down the back half of Chinamans. After I put it in double low, I never took it out.
I'm still looking forward to some of the easier trails we run with the local club and being able to use the NP205 low range. Most of the time the NP241 low was deeper than I wanted since we could move faster on the easier trails. The NP205 low should make those runs a little better. I also think the combination of the 454 and the NP205 low range should be great in the snow (on the 1 snow run I allow myself each winter).
My only complaint would be how difficult it is to shift the NP205. The NP241 wasn't ever super easy but usually it would only require rocking the truck a little.
I did get confused with all my levers. At the start of the trail I figured I would put the Magnum in low range since it would be same gear ratio I was used to. So it put it in LO and thought okay now I need to put the NP205 in HI. I kept pushing on the lever but I couldn't figure out why the rear output wouldn't go into HI. I tried putting the Magnum back in HI, but that didn't help either. Finally I said to hell with it and decided to put the NP205 in LO. It was when I moved the rear output lever to LO, I realized my error. The rear output was already in HI, it had been all morning or I wouldn't have been going anywhere!
That doesn't sound right to me. Definitely use your favorite glue next time....
