CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Yeah, I've thought about the PCV. I have a new one I'm going to put on for good measure. I also have a different breather I want to try.
I do need to verify it's not coming from anywhere else, like the back of the intake manifold. I just didn't want to think about it anymore yesterday.
I do need to verify it's not coming from anywhere else, like the back of the intake manifold. I just didn't want to think about it anymore yesterday.
Ensures you keep fresh oil in the motor......
Also the reason I paint my motors black, keeps things less stressful.
You are a **** hypocrite
I prefer to think of myself as more of a "Bipolar Truck Part Collector"; I like to buy pretty things but don't want to work on it.
You know what they say about going black...
scott 4x4high would tell you that stock pumps are more than all you need . high volume can suck a pan dry and cause more problems than cure . that's what he has told me in the past on engine build questions I have asked.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I used a stock pump in mine for that reason. Holds 25psi at idle and easily gets over 50psi when the rpm gets up there. Stock pumps don’t seem to have any trouble.
I've used high volume pumps on big blocks since the late 80's with stock and aftermarket pans, I've never noticed an oil pressure gauge drop pressure under load.
Isn't it like 1 psi of oil pressure for every 10 hp under full load.
I didn't want high pressure, I was after high flow. I know it's really not needed but I had that mindset "if I'm going to mess with it I might as well try to make it better....."
I'm not worried about sucking the pan dry, there's 7qts in there.
I'm not worried about sucking the pan dry, there's 7qts in there.
At least you know the engine is healthy due to the high oil pressure, since pressure is resistance to flow
Yeah, I am happy in that regard. Unlike the old TBI350 that would BARELY have sufficient pressure.
Although I can't remember if I reported it here, before I got rid of the TBI350 I tried a BG product called Engine Performance Restoration. https://www.amazon.com/Bg109-Engine-Performance-Restoration-Makers/dp/B00IAPLIDK After I followed the procedure for using it, I did see an increase in the oil pressure.
Although I can't remember if I reported it here, before I got rid of the TBI350 I tried a BG product called Engine Performance Restoration. https://www.amazon.com/Bg109-Engine-Performance-Restoration-Makers/dp/B00IAPLIDK After I followed the procedure for using it, I did see an increase in the oil pressure.
A quart or two of lucas or some 20W50 will also give an increase in oil pressure.
I ran Rotella in that motor. 15w40 I think.
What kind of pressures?
When I first got my Yukon, I ran conventional 20w-50 in the summer (thicker is better in the heat, or so I think/thought) and 5w30 in the winter. The gauge, no matter what oil I ran, and with as accurate as it is, rarely read above 60-65 psi. Now I run full synthetic 5w30 year round with the same pressures, 60 when cold and ~45 when warm, unless it was really hot, then it might drop to 35. These are all while at speed (~1500 rpm+)
When I first got my Yukon, I ran conventional 20w-50 in the summer (thicker is better in the heat, or so I think/thought) and 5w30 in the winter. The gauge, no matter what oil I ran, and with as accurate as it is, rarely read above 60-65 psi. Now I run full synthetic 5w30 year round with the same pressures, 60 when cold and ~45 when warm, unless it was really hot, then it might drop to 35. These are all while at speed (~1500 rpm+)
