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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Blazer Bash report.

The only physical damage the truck received was a big dent in the passenger tank. It now only works to about half capacity.

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In the last picture you can see a ring scraped on the driveshaft. Luckily it didn't affect the drivability.

The rear output seal in the NP205 is leaking. I expected it since the install wasn't as smooth as I'd like. It at least held off getting real bad until on the way home. I kept looking under the truck and didn't see drips until about halfway home.

Also need to figure out where I have a leak on the power steering reservoir. Several years ago I changed out the fittings from -10/-6/-6 to -12/-8/-6 and I suspect the orings on those might need replaced. It's been getting wet for a long time, but after I mounted the reservoir on the bracket it's in a different spot and leaves spots on the ground overnight.

I try really hard to not have any leaks. I think it's nice to have an old truck that doesn't leave spots behind and it's also easier to tell when you have a problem if all of sudden there are little puddles under the truck.

Everyone that ran trails with us loved the sound of the Spal fan I mounted in front of the radiator. :whistle: While it worked great to help cool things down at slower speeds and stopped, it is pretty shrill. I had it set to come on at 190 and off at 180. The last trail on Steel Bender was a lot more steep climbing - all the big block guys were talking about hitting over 200. I did some experimenting and I think the Spal fan was keeping the mechanical fan from engaging most the time. I bumped the Spal temps to on at 195 and off at 185 and most times the mechanical would cool things down before the Spal came on.

My fan clutch isn't adjustable like some that @6872xtc was talking about. I think I might be able to create my own adjustable feature with a dremel and cutoff disc. If I could get the fan clutch to engage a little sooner, I'd be happier. If I can't accomplish that, I need to get the trans cooler fan to come on sooner. The problem I have is once the motor is getting into the mid 190's to 200, the trans is getting to nearly the same. The trans fan doesn't come on until 195 and then cools it down to 180. If I could get it to come on a closer to 180, I could let the engine temps run where it wants and keep the trans at a cooler temp.

I've noticed it seems like every time the output seal starts leaking again, the transmission as been running at those 190-200 temps.

After 2 years of not having Blazer Bash to get ready for, the truck hasn't been getting as much attention. After 4 days sitting in it, I have a list of things I want to do before the next Blazer Bash which will likely be 2022 for us.

  1. NP205 output seal
  2. Changes tran cooler fan temperature switch set up
  3. Adjust clutch fan spring if possible
  4. Steering reservoir leak(s)
    1. Redo the line between reservoir & pump
  5. Replace fuel tank
  6. Re-install left slider
  7. Replace front fenders
    1. First I want to experiment with welding up cut edges of the existing fenders before doing the same on the new fenders
  8. Windshield washer setup (I have none)
  9. Redo the swinging steps on the sliders
  10. Move front axle forward
I have a couple ideas on the fuel tank issue; not sure which route I'm going to go yet.
 
How was the engine temp in Moab?
It worked well. I think only 1 time it got over 200. I need to play around with how the Spal pusher and mechanical fan clutch work together. I think I had the Spal coming on too soon and then it's blowing cooler air on the fan clutch so it rarely engages. That's all trail stuff.

On the highway it worked great. On the long pulls over the passes, the engine would hit about 195 and then the fan clutch would engage and cool it down to about 185-188. Once that happened it just stayed at those temps.

That's when I decided I need to have the Spal set to come on a warmer temp than I was using, like 195 vs 190. Then the mechanical fan can do more of the cooling. I'd like to see if I can figure out a way to adjust the spring on the fan clutch on come on sooner.

On the last trail I did before the fan you sent me, the mechanical fan roared all day. The fan you sent me works so well it never roars much and not for long. Many times I only knew the clutch was engaged because engine temps were going down. It's like it only needs to have the fan clutch engaged a little bit and it's going to work cooling things off.
 
Good deal. I'm glad the cooling has improved, its sucks always having to keep 50% of your attention on the gauge.
 
I think it's nice to have an old truck that doesn't leave spots behind and it's also easier to tell when you have a problem if all of sudden there are little puddles under the truck.

I guess I'm opposite of you...when I don't see puddles under my trucks, that's when I know there's a problem...that means I'm out of fluid


:haha:
 
@6872xtc I found this article.

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My fan clutch doesn't have but 1 slot for the coil. I highlighted in the second image above what I did with mine.

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I was able to reach in a pull it out of the slot without removing the fan. I figure if it's a problem in the winter, I can put it back in the slot. I wish I had checked on this while still in Moab; it would have been interesting to see the difference in a higher temperature environment.
 
Glad that you got some progress with the cooling system!

I like your idea with the dremel. I saw the same article and wondered if they were talking about pulling the spring out of the shaft to turn it just half of a turn. Theirs wasn't swedged in like yours. It will be interesting to see what you can find out.

In may have to try something on mine to see if I get any helpful information.
 
I've long had the steering reservior get "wet" with fluid. Before Blazer Bash I wiped it down. Based on this picture, it seems like the source could be the lid.

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Keep in mind I'm using PSC's anti-splash vent that maintains 6psi pressure in the reservoir.

fluid-anti-splash-vent.jpg

So that could be pushing fluid out the lid thru a leaky oring.

I'm thinking about putting an open vent on the lid to see if that changes anything.
 
Ran one of my favorite trails today, Red Cone. It was nice and chilly at over 13,000ft

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I must have swapped the bulbs in one of my marker lights. My OCD is bugging me that they aren't the same on both sides.

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After the adjustment to the fan clutch, it is pretty much engaged all the time. It actually worked out pretty well on this trail because it's a long climb to the top and the club tends to be pretty slow. I need to experiment with cutting a slot in the middle to see how that works.

The other thing I noticed in Moab the fan for the trans cooler didn't come on until about 190 and off at 180. I was curious if I could get one that was 180/170. Figured out mine was supposed to operating that way. I realized I have the switch after the factory radiator cooler, before the add-on cooler. The temperature gauge sending unit is at the inlet to the factory radiator cooler. I need to move my fan switch next to the gauge sending unit.

Right now the fan is running behind the game with the switch located between the coolers.
 
Red cone! Still bummed we missed running it with you a couple of years back.

Just a little more adjustment and you'll have the clutch fan where you want it. Good work!
 
It would be so sweet if there was an air fan clutch for these like on a semi or even an electrical clutch so you could set them up however you wanted to.
 

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