Listen to your wife, she's correct.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Listen to your wife, she's correct.
I was thinking something like this truck.
It needs to be a small enough diameter to sit between the body line and the top of the fender.
I also thought a little bit about trying to run one up thru the cowl kinda like an H1. But I don't think it would clear the hood without sticking up too far.
Actually a scoop of some sort might not be too bad.
I'm sure some are wondering why I wouldn't use the factory core support location. I don't have enough room due to the wider diesel radiator and having a battery on each side of the radiator.
The other good point she has is it will get beat to hell on the trees around here.
that was my first thought. Or if you take another nap on the trail....
Besides fording the Nile river associated tributaries in Africa, the other benefit of a snorkel that is high up is less dust intake versus a lower intake. At least that's what the khaki and pith helmet overland types like to tell themselves over blended whiskey drinks around the campfire that the hired help set up for them.
Honestly I've not seen one on a square that looks "right" to me.
I do like the idea of a h1 style short stack poking up out of the cowl at the base of the window. Done right could be pretty cool.
Cowl induction hood.
Been in rigs with cab intakes. They suck. Literally. Can't talk over the noise.
I could just cut a hole in the fender for the air intake and then people can assume I have a turbo.
Probably need to find a pie tin or something I could mock up and see if it will work with the hood.
That's how Nate did his. But his truck is just loud so it's hard to tell how much it contributes.
Problem solved!!! https://www.holley.com/products/eng...ers/multi-fit_remote_mount_kits/parts/STS1002
Rear mount turbo then you can move the intake all the way to the bed or where ever it's convenient. I did not know Holley bought STS Turbo either til now.
Rear mount turbo then you can move the intake all the way to the bed or where ever it's convenient. I did not know Holley bought STS Turbo either til now.
When I start looking at motor mods to improve the power I frequently come back to the idea that you could also add boost for the same kind of money. Like a roller cam or aftermarket heads.
A few psi of boost goes a long ways.
The change to the filler neck didn't help. Matter of fact it's worse, can't even get fuel to go in at all. Probably gonna have to do something like @skunked between the tool box and spare tire.
The other frustration is the fuel level still isn't reading right after running a new wire from the sender to the gauge. I unbolted the filler neck from the door so I could hold it up above the tank to fill. I filled it until gas came out the filler. Gauge is reading 20 gallons. I have a 40 gallon tank.
Last time I put gas in it I was pretty sure it was full. Today I put in 10 gallons which makes sense for the number of miles driven since the last fill up.
Does anyone know if the 40 gallon tanks use the same 0-90ohm on the sender?
I'm also having a problem with the turn signals. If the headlights are on, the right indicator on the dash is on constant. If I try to use the right signal, it flashes kinda erratic. Left turn works fine.
When the headlights are off and I put the right turn signal on, all of the indicators flash like hazards. Again the left works fine.
I have LED flasher modules so it's not that. It could be the way I wired the LED lights into the harness. Or the right LED light is messed up with its on board wiring. Any ideas?
The other frustration is the fuel level still isn't reading right after running a new wire from the sender to the gauge. I unbolted the filler neck from the door so I could hold it up above the tank to fill. I filled it until gas came out the filler. Gauge is reading 20 gallons. I have a 40 gallon tank.
Last time I put gas in it I was pretty sure it was full. Today I put in 10 gallons which makes sense for the number of miles driven since the last fill up.
Does anyone know if the 40 gallon tanks use the same 0-90ohm on the sender?
I'm also having a problem with the turn signals. If the headlights are on, the right indicator on the dash is on constant. If I try to use the right signal, it flashes kinda erratic. Left turn works fine.
When the headlights are off and I put the right turn signal on, all of the indicators flash like hazards. Again the left works fine.
I have LED flasher modules so it's not that. It could be the way I wired the LED lights into the harness. Or the right LED light is messed up with its on board wiring. Any ideas?
Switch the left and right blinker housings temporarily and see what happens. Rules out the blinker.
Is the fuel gauge matched to the sending unit? Take the sending unit out, ground it and run the float up while watching the gauge.
Is the fuel gauge matched to the sending unit? Take the sending unit out, ground it and run the float up while watching the gauge.
Good idea on the lights, that should help narrow it down.
The fuel level gauge is part of the digital dash. I program it for the ohms and number of gallons. Right now it is set to 0ohms for 0 gallons progressing linearly to 90ohms for 40 gallons.
I think the next step is to fill the tank and pull the sender to see if it's really full. Then do the test you mention.
You may need to add some resistors. I had similar weirdness with mine until I did. The led flasher didn't solve it, even though it was supposed to.
It's cheap and easy to try at least.
These are the ones I bought and solved my issues
JABINCO 4Pcs 6-ohm Load resistors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081N4VHQ...abc_M9SKZV9GF6KQ6Q5ACSY2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think my fuel level gauge is working. This morning I was able to get about 8 more gallons in the tank and the level was reading 24gal before and 33gal after.
There's definitely an issue with my filler setup. Last night I filled the tank with the nozzle going as slow as possible and filled until gas came our. This morning I filled again and should not have needed more than 2 gallons but got over 8 gallons in before gas came out the fill. And it's still about 7 gallons short of the tank being full.
I think in addition to the filler neck angle being wrong, there must also be a section of the hose that is still sloped wrong. I have a plan to redo it all.
Also found the specs on the 40 gallon sender and it's actually 0-95ohms.
There's definitely an issue with my filler setup. Last night I filled the tank with the nozzle going as slow as possible and filled until gas came our. This morning I filled again and should not have needed more than 2 gallons but got over 8 gallons in before gas came out the fill. And it's still about 7 gallons short of the tank being full.
I think in addition to the filler neck angle being wrong, there must also be a section of the hose that is still sloped wrong. I have a plan to redo it all.
Also found the specs on the 40 gallon sender and it's actually 0-95ohms.
I did not catch where your fill neck goes into the tank. Is it in the top or side?
I wonder if it's sunk at the first elbow.
Or maybe it's too many bends for such little slope.
Or maybe it's too many bends for such little slope.
Yep. 4 bends is 2 too many in any flat gravity fill system. And each spot where the hose is over the tube on the high side, slows the flow also.
