Sounds like deja vu, someone recently did the same on an 8.1 in the master thread, same thing many said to eliminate it.
I say keep it and check it out the 8.1 might be very similar
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I say keep it and check it out the 8.1 might be very similar
That just means more oil psi or thin it out to a lower viscosity.
Well, you do want your oil to get hot enough to burn off any condensation that forms in the engine. Happens a lot on jet boats that run to cold. You’ll end up with a milkshake after a while
Didn’t think about that, makes sense. On this note at what temp does condensation happen and at what temp is it burned off?
212 degrees for sure since it’s water, but 190-200 would burn it off over time. I’ve seen engines with oil coolers struggle to reach 150-160 here in PA in the cold months
I have been daily driving my 2002, 8.1/oil cooler equipped truck round trip to work for the last 2 months. While I do let it warm up for ten minutes in the morning, it gets up to operating temperature no problem. Most mornings have been anywhere from 12 to 28 degrees and my commute is only 9 miles.
I would believe that the humidity in PA makes some difference in how much condensation gets into the crankcase, as well as the thermostat temp, too.
I've generally had trouble keeping the engine cool in the summer; it's better with the current 34" wide radiator and big electric fans, but I my default is to think along the lines of more cooling. Most of cooling woes have been while towing the camper over the passes.
I am considering swapping out the wide 34" radiator in favor of the traditional squarebody 28" wide radiator because the wide radiator gets in the way of some things. So that's also part of my thinking about keeping the oil cooler.
I have decided I'm going to move the trans cooler to the bed. It blocks an iincredible portion of the radiator.
I am considering swapping out the wide 34" radiator in favor of the traditional squarebody 28" wide radiator because the wide radiator gets in the way of some things. So that's also part of my thinking about keeping the oil cooler.
I have decided I'm going to move the trans cooler to the bed. It blocks an iincredible portion of the radiator.
I have read a bit on guys more happy with big blocks a big mechanical fans and maybe electric for extra cooling as needed .
This is the cooling fan on my 15K gvw RV rig.
I tried the mechanical fan a few years ago and hated it, specifically on the trail. I tend to lug the RPM down which doesn't work well with the mechanical fan especially since the truck is typically under load climbing. I really didn't like the roar of the mechanical fan when the clutch was fully engaged. I ended up adding an electrical auxiliary fan that helped but I figured I might as well just go back to the electric fans since I was already halfway there.
I still hope to put AC in the truck some day so the other reason for moving the trans cooler is to be able to mount a condenser where the trans cooler was.
If I move forward with the oil cooler, I'm going to try and mount it somewhere that doesn't intrude much on the radiator either.
I still hope to put AC in the truck some day so the other reason for moving the trans cooler is to be able to mount a condenser where the trans cooler was.
If I move forward with the oil cooler, I'm going to try and mount it somewhere that doesn't intrude much on the radiator either.
I worked on the GenVI a little yesterday. I needed to measure the installed height of the springs to see what I need for a spring cup and/or shims. I still need to get the kit to make the rocker arms adjustable; factory uses non-adjustable bolts. So I had to figure out a way to use the spring compressing tool I have that uses a stud.
The rocker bolts in the head are 3/8-16 but the tool needs 3/8-24 or 7/16 fine thread. I found studs at O'Reilly that are 3/8 course and fine.
I got the longest fine thread version at 2" but that was too long for the tool. Cutting it down to 1-1/4" was perfect.
You can see my rig to put air pressure in the cylinder so the valves wouldn't drop. 55psi was sufficient. I read about some people using too much pressure and rotating the crank. I also read that keeping the spark plugs in helps.
The GenVI has rotators under the springs that are .34" thick. Some keep them and some replace them with spring cups. I'll defer to @folkenheath on that call. I know some people worry the rotators will come apart. I can see why the springs get changed, the factory version are pretty unimpressive.
The rocker bolts in the head are 3/8-16 but the tool needs 3/8-24 or 7/16 fine thread. I found studs at O'Reilly that are 3/8 course and fine.
I got the longest fine thread version at 2" but that was too long for the tool. Cutting it down to 1-1/4" was perfect.
You can see my rig to put air pressure in the cylinder so the valves wouldn't drop. 55psi was sufficient. I read about some people using too much pressure and rotating the crank. I also read that keeping the spark plugs in helps.
The GenVI has rotators under the springs that are .34" thick. Some keep them and some replace them with spring cups. I'll defer to @folkenheath on that call. I know some people worry the rotators will come apart. I can see why the springs get changed, the factory version are pretty unimpressive.
With regards to the oil cooler, many of the Corvairs I've seen running remote oil coolers would run an oil system in-line thermostat, a quick search shows enough hits that it must be a thing others do as well. This would help with initial warmup and getting the oil in the engine up to temp. Oil cooling is a pretty big deal in air cooled engines.
I’ve used rope down in the cylinder when I didn’t have access to air, gotta have the piston at TDC on the cylinder you’re working on though or a heck of a lot of rope.
I did think about using rope, but we have 2 big vertical 60 or 80 gallon compressors so compressed air is plentiful. I had also read that putting the piston at the top of the cylinder would ensure the valves can't drop down too far in the event air pressure is lost.
I'll have to check that out. It would help with warmup in the winter.
There is something similar in the new Silverado 1500, that is the number one reason the transmissions fail in those trucks since it can fail closed in the summer.
Yup, we’ve had this happen to three trucks at work, trans temps near 250
It’s a cooler thermal bypass valve, GM has a tsb and replacement part for this. My 2015 on a long steep grade only reaches 190 pinned to the floor.
Engine tore down and new bump stick installed.
Engine looks like I'd expect for 80k miles. No issues with the old cam. Next step is installing the adjustable valve train.
Engine looks like I'd expect for 80k miles. No issues with the old cam. Next step is installing the adjustable valve train.
What cam are you using?
