What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Overview Gallery Discussion
Howards https://www.howardscams.com/hydraul...54-502-gen-6-1400-4600-howards-cams-120236-12

Lift: .510 / .538, Duration @ .050: 213 / 221, Centerline: 108, Good idle, Off-road & street performance, 9.0:1+ compression advised.

We learned that if you're keeping the vortec heads, you can't use the recommended Howards double springs for that cam. Unless you want to turn down valve guides. We ended up with beehive springs.
 
Is there anything special you all do with these recessed rubber type gaskets? Like the timing chain cover and valve covers.

I was wondering if any adhesive was needed in the channel or anything like that.

20240112_115435.jpg
 
DO NOT use any rtv or stuff . most of these newer gaskets like these are designed to swell up to finish the seal when oil hits them . if you use any sealer products it can deactivate the swelling and cause problems . the good companys put this on a slip of paper in the box .
 
That sounds good. I was hoping these would be that simple. I'm excited about that fact.
 
Just make sure its installed correctly and straight. Some of the styles that don't hold themselves in the groove so well I use little dabs of grape jelly(loctite 515 flange sealant) every couple inches to help keep it in til its installed.
 
I put a dab of Ultra RTV in the 4 corners where the oil pan, block, and end seals come together, and that's it.

The factory does the same thing if you buy a brand new Gen VI short block, and you can see the remnants of it on yours.
 
Truckman4life said:
Just make sure its installed correctly and straight. Some of the styles that don't hold themselves in the groove so well I use little dabs of grape jelly(loctite 515 flange sealant) every couple inches to help keep it in til its installed.
Click to expand...
I'll have to check out that 515, seems like it could be useful for other things.


Chickntrk said:
That is one nice thing about modern engines, sealing technology has come a long way
Click to expand...
I was hoping the upper intake plenum would use that oring looking seal, but it's still paper.


folkenheath said:
I put a dab of Ultra RTV in the 4 corners where the oil pan, block, and end seals come together, and that's it.

The factory does the same thing if you buy a brand new Gen VI short block, and you can see the remnants of it on yours.
Click to expand...
I did notice it looked like there was rtv remnant in the corners.
 
Got the beehive springs installed with rotator eliminators.

20240113_174657.jpg


The valve spring height mic had me going. I was looking at the numbers thinking "how the hell do you read this thing?!"

Of course I had to YouTube it. The first key is understanding when the mic is bottomed out, it's reading 1.6". The -0- midway down is 2" so the following -1- is 2.1". Then the numbers on the barrel are the second and third decimals. The picture below is showing 2.165".

20240115_142548.jpg


I used some positive lock valve seals. Had to YouTube those too. The guy mentioned using hot water to soften up the seals. I thought this sounded like a particularly good idea in a 50° shop. I didn't want to wet them directly so I came up with the idea to put boiling water in a mug and use a zip lock bag to keep them dry. Worked pretty good.

20240113_162415.jpg

This is my first time doing a cam swap so you all have to forgive me going over all this basic stuff. It's new to me and hopefully it can help someone in the future.
 
mrk5 said:
Kinda funny thought just occurred to me. This is the newest engine I've been into. Before this its all been 70s stuff and the early 80s 454. So I'm all excited about this new fangled late 90s technology.
Click to expand...
And to think it has mid 2000s technology!
 
You are adding CnP, so that's newer yet.....however, I don't see adding any VVT to that engine, that would be pretty tricky...
 
mrk5 said:
Yes, I have seen that PRP does that. I've wondered if I could just put an electric fan under the seat to make it "air conditioned".
Click to expand...

I'm not sure the air would pass through the seat foam very well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom