CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
With the transfer case clocking, are you running a cross member that uses Ana upside down U relief for the driveshaft clearance?
How I originally clocked the crossmember could go straight across. Now that it's in the factory position, I do have about 1-3/4" drop in the crossmember under the front driveshaft. That drop works to clear the driveshaft and also provide the support for the skid plate.

20260111_170812.jpg

20260111_170747.jpg

20260111_170827.jpg
 
Very nice, I was considering something the same myself so now I will pull the trigger on it. I’ve made the adaptor to my transfer case out of Steele, I’ve got one end of it welded up. The other is just slip fit for now so that I can clock my transfer case and weld the index of where it is happy.

IMG_2120.jpeg
 
Very nice, I was considering something the same myself so now I will pull the trigger on it. I’ve made the adaptor to my transfer case out of Steele, I’ve got one end of it welded up. The other is just slip fit for now so that I can clock my transfer case and weld the index of where it is happy.

View attachment 520475
In general you need to machine weldments after you weld them when it comes to precision aligned parts like transmissions, engines, and transfer cases. Once you weld it, it may not be parallel and aligned anymore between the transmission and Tcase. Do you have a way to remachine the critical surfaces after welding?

With a steel adaptor that thick you can rest assured your transmission case will break before that does.
 
Finished up the cradle. We did a snow run Sunday and I'm very happy with the results. I had it up to 55 in 4wd with not a noise from the front shaft.

I still need to fab the skid plate.

20260118_182303.jpg

20260118_182251.jpg

20260118_182234.jpg

All painted with Rustoleum brush on hammered black. The old crossmember was painted with that and it held up great for 7 years.

20260124_153855.jpg


Poser shot:

20260125_162159.jpg
 
For over a year now if it was below about 50°, the power steering pump was unhappy and cavitating. I thought maybe something was going on with the fluid so I decided to flush and change out the fluid. In the process of doing that, I figured out the cause of the cavitation. The hose between the reservoir and pump was getting sucked closed. I figure it was happening when cold because the less viscous fluid caused the pump to pull a stronger suction. I went to the hardware and found a spring to put in the hose.

20260301_171647.jpg

In my haste to get the lines back on without losing too much fluid after the fluid flush, I realized I got the blue return line routed around things instead of inside of them. :doah: Don't know if I want to deal with the mess that will result if I try to reposition the line.

Another folly I wanted to share. After I did that nice paint job pictured above on the new transmission crossmember, I managed to mess it up. I thought it would be a good idea to put a blanket on the jack so I wouldn't risk gouging up the new paint. Well the problem is it was an old cheap velour blanket. Since the paint wasn't fully cured a bunch of the blanket stuck to the new paint! :doah:

20260301_175245.jpg

That picture is from a few weeks after it happened and it has actually improved. I was hoping some of the blanket material would come off on its own.
 
I thought it would be a good idea to put a blanket on the jack so I wouldn't risk gouging up the new paint. Well the problem is it was an old cheap velour blanket. Since the paint wasn't fully cured a bunch of the blanket stuck to the new paint! :doah:
Doh! Nothing hurts worse than taking extra steps "to be smart" only to find out that made it worse. :cry:
 
I didn't even realize my steering reservoir has a filter until @doubletrouble mentioned it. Easy to swap it out, just pull out the 5/16" bolt. Part number was a Napa Gold 1418. For what it's worth, I did top off the fluid after. I try to keep the level just high enough to over the bolt head.

20260307_130919.jpg

20260307_131107.jpg
 
I finally got the skid plate mostly installed. I reused the plate from the previous setup. It would be better if it was an inch or more wider, but it's close enough to work. Especially at the price of steel these days.

One side is just clamped in. I need to drill and tap 2 holes to bolt it but I didn't have time.

20260314_173613.jpg
 
Big blocks don't like U-joints.

When I had my 355 SBC I broke the 3RCV two trips in a row, finally fixed it, the third upgrade it lasted for 3 more years...

Then I put the big block in and broke it the first trip out.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom