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89 s10 buildup for rocks

I have seen 1000 horse motors in s 10s with no real frame mods and the frames are fine, pretty strong peices, I love your idea for the astro box and reverse knuckles.

When I do my 3 link in the front I may end up using bushings too.
 
blazinzuk said:
I have seen 1000 horse motors in s 10s with no real frame mods and the frames are fine, pretty strong peices
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HP (drag racing) isn't nearly as hard on rigs as rock crawling is. I don't know where you saw a 1000 hp S10 but I would venture a guess that it wasn't on the rocks.

I don't think the S-10 frame will be a problem for you, as long as you make sure to reinforce it in the necessary places (i.e. where you mount your links, etc.)

blazinzuk said:
When I do my 3 link in the front I may end up using bushings too.
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I don't think bushings at both ends are a good idea. Having some kind of heim/cartridge joint is well worth it IMO. I have seen LOTS of poly bushings fail in less than a seasons worth of use on link suspensions that had them on only one side of the links (i.e. heims on one end and bushings on the other). I can't imagine how quick you might go through bushings with them at both ends (i.e. flex is limited by the flex of the poly bushing).

I don't have a 4 link under my truck for another month or two but I have seen others and IME would never run bushings at both ends (and I have chosen to not run bushings at all).
 
yeah, the bushing thing is just something i am going to have to experience first hand. if i break them, ive got spares to get me home. then i can change the design to suite the needs of the truck.

as stated, s10 frames are boxed...to a point. they are boxed to just in front of the torsion bar crossmember, and then c channel after that.
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i used google sketch up for the cad type drawings. its a free program.
 
out with the old...



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and soon to be in with the new.

i tore out the IFS today, as well as the rear end, and the frame brackets for the leaf springs. i tore apart one side, but decided to do the other side the "fast way". i just unbolted the shock at top, took the brake line off, and unbolted both control arms from the frame, letting it all fall as one piece. but i tell you, that diff did not want to come out of there with the tie rod still in place, but we managed. ive still got to torch off some of the brackets tomorrow, as well as a few crossmembers. but i think i may end up keeping the forward upper control arm mount. it looks like it would make a handy shock mount with a little modification. tomorrow the frame should be mostly clean of everything, and then i can start mocking up mounts for things.
 
Any plans to gusset those bent links? This is going to be a cool build-up and I will be keeping an eye on it
 
muddermilitia said:
Any plans to gusset those bent links? This is going to be a cool build-up and I will be keeping an eye on it
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yeah, im still not 100% sold on those. on friday i have an appointment to have brackets of my choice made for me. i still might scrap my idea of using what i have, and go with a more traditional 3 link setup, which would bring my lowers closer to the tube, and closer to the vertical centerline. it may take away the need for bent links. but to answer your question, i will gusset them if they get made that way.
 
thanks,

i got pretty much everything torched off tonight that is getting torched off. i also set my frame height, and my axles under it for a look at the WB and overall height. i set my frame at 25", and my WB at about 112". im not sure but i think i am about somewhere between 6-10" of lift right now, possibly right at 6.5". i want to keep it somewhat low, but with a balance of lift and clearance. i think i am liking it so far.
 
we spent an all nighter in the shop, and got a bunch of parts made. ive only got a few loose ends as far as my brackets go.


upper link axle end:
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lower link axle ends:
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frame panhard bar mounts:
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upper link frame mount:
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i made different ones for the rear and front:
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upper coil bucket:
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lower coil bucket:
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and of course my bitchen sq. tube adapting bushing ends from suicide doors:
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38377k5 said:
I don't think bushings at both ends are a good idea. Having some kind of heim/cartridge joint is well worth it IMO. I have seen LOTS of poly bushings fail in less than a seasons worth of use on link suspensions that had them on only one side of the links (i.e. heims on one end and bushings on the other). I can't imagine how quick you might go through bushings with them at both ends (i.e. flex is limited by the flex of the poly bushing).
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Oh so true but if its the difference between not doing it or doing it bushings at both ends can and do work, you do have to limit your flex until you can get heims but with planning as Masiony is doing here your bushings are threaded. Replacements with heims is quick and easy

BTW your brackets are looking good if everything else on the truck turns out that nice you are going to end up with one heck of a truck
 
i dont see why i would have to limit my flex, and by that i mean i will not limit my flex. i have seen countless link suspensions work with all bushings. i dont buy into that mentality that you need all the coolest bling $$$ parts, or your junk will fall apart. its all a bunch of marketing and scared people.
 
Masiony said:
i dont see why i would have to limit my flex, and by that i mean i will not limit my flex. i have seen countless link suspensions work with all bushings. i dont buy into that mentality that you need all the coolest bling $$$ parts, or your junk will fall apart. its all a bunch of marketing and scared people.
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my buddy builds all his 4link with bushings and have never had a problem...
 
yeah I have seen a few 4-links built using just bushings and they worked fine. Heims are definately better but bushings will do fine if you cant afford to go that route. Theres no arguing its going to chew the bushing ups after a while, but the guys I know running them like so havent had any issues yet. Looking good so far...
 
Masiony said:
i dont see why i would have to limit my flex, and by that i mean i will not limit my flex. i have seen countless link suspensions work with all bushings. i dont buy into that mentality that you need all the coolest bling $$$ parts, or your junk will fall apart. its all a bunch of marketing and scared people.
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I only have expireance with one 4 link that used bushings on both ends his arms were way long it was a 1/4 elliptic suspension that was not attached to axle at all just a pad for the spring to ride on. Orginally he did not have the steel sleeve in his bushings and they got chewed up really fast, we put the steel sleeve in it and it was better. We did limit his travel and the bushings lasted longer, looking at the rig flex you would have no idea we limited his travel either

As far as limiting your travel I may have a different opinion than alot of poeple but if you have fairly equal flex front to rear it will make your rig more capable cause its easier to drive.

I think you will be fine overall the bushing for those hot rod heims ( i know thats not what they are but thats what I call them) are cheap and easy to replace if they wear out.

Having said all this I don't limit my flex either and I have done plenty of stuff that other folks said wouldn't work and ended up working alright.
 
i probably will be limiting my up travel, at least in the front. i think i am only running about 6" of lift with a 38.5 tire. thats a lot for the s10, and i will probably run into the upper link hitting the panhard in the front if im not careful.
 
updates:

well, i got my ring gear back today from my dad's shop. i had it turned down about 3/4" all the way around. now i need to shave the bottom of my differential to take up all the room i just gave it. i am going to take off about 3" from the bottom of my 14b. here is the ring gear, before and after.

before:
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after:
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now before everyone questions this, i am fully aware of the risks, and how likely it is to break now. i am ok with that, and this is an experiment. if i do break this, i will have to replace my entire housing. and if it doesnt work, then i will just go back to the normal ring gear/housing.
 
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