89 Suburban - The Canyonero: Rear Suspension Time!

[nutt7]

My seats are worn so I picked up some middle row town and country seats for $30 and fabbed the burb seat sliders to fit. I like them because they recline quickly and can lay flat forward, which is useful when camping inside. The driver side hits the wheel before laying flat...I might fix it but not sure yet. Color matched better in the junkyard, lol. If I like them I’ll get some saddle seat covers to match color/vintage. What do you think?

Still improving with the welder. Layered a few beads to fill the gap between tubes.


Used square tubing for the rear feet. It worked well until the seat spring hit it, so I had to grind it down a bit.


Seat bottoms on the burb sliders


All buttoned up

Laying flat. It came out pretty level.


Almost! I might modify the sliders, but probably won’t.


I trimmed the plastic covers to keep it looking kinda decent...

 

[jd350az]

Those seats look nice! I need new seats in my 89 suburban

 

[78K30]

Those seats look nice! I need new seats in my 89 suburban

Wandering through a salvage yard a couple weeks ago with a friend we found that chevy venture Van's middle row bucket seats are actually very comfortable. Comfy enough we bought a pair and they mounted them in their service truck already. Just food for thought

 

[nutt7]

Wandering through a salvage yard a couple weeks ago with a friend we found that chevy venture Van's middle row bucket seats are actually very comfortable. Comfy enough we bought a pair and they mounted them in their service truck already. Just food for thought

Thanks! So far these are working out well. Next time I’m in the scrap yard I’ll check out the venture seats.

 

[nutt7]

So I finished this center console subwoofer I’ve been working on. It houses a 12” sub and I still managed to build in some storage space. I wanted this set up so I can have my tunes and have full cargo space too! Only loss is a little bit of console storage. I may build a “corral” around the 4wd shifter for an extra place to toss stuff, which is something we found lacking when camping or on road trips. It sounds awesome, better than my last sub...having it up front increases the staging effect. More explanations in the pics...

Used 1” dowels to reinforce the panels. This decreases unwanted resonance, and increases strength, and it preserves the wood’s integrity over time. They are off center to accommodate the port and the sub’s magnet.


DIY filler out of sawdust and glue to fill the pocket holes.


The top is 1/2” ply, built on top of the 3/4 mdf. I used glue and pocket screws for the whole thing.


I coated it inside and out with rubber leak seal to protect against moisture and spills.


I’m surprised at how well I killed it on this carpet job, if I may toot my own horn. Besides the lid, it’s all one piece. The seam is near the port in the front. Can you see it?


Added a lock. It’s not exactly Fort Knox, but it’ll secure the lid and deter opportunistic thieves.


Fits an atlas!


I didn’t want any brackets showing on the outside, so I went through the bottom which meant adding fender washers with homemade neoprene gaskets to seal it up.


A close up of the rear legs. They use the seat belt pads/bolts. The console is well secured and very stable.


The front brackets where the original console mounted. I only drilled two more holes for this project.


Wiring it up! I chose this sub for its precision response and it’s a great compliment to the suburban’s acoustics.


The bottom. Took a lot of time to plan and fab the mounts. The front is designed that way so I can access the mount bolts easily. I welded nuts on them so I don’t need to mess with a wrench. I put a grill so errant feet or gear don’t damage the sub. Downfiring gives the sub something to load off of for better bass resonance.


Forward facing port for better fill. The whole box was built exactly to the manufacturer’s specs.


The passenger seat folds flat. The console is JUST a tad higher. This flat area is where we toss our bags when sleeping inside (while camping).


The storage. I put rubber mats in there to keep things quiet.


Gap between seats...tight, but it fits! No leg interference.


This is where my arm rests. It’s the same height as the arm rests on the seats. That’s a tuffy cup holder. I will Velcro it down so it can be moved anywhere in that front area (or even on the sides). The carpet holds Velcro really well.


It’s dirty I know. Three dogs...


The lid can slide off the hinges when open past 90 degrees, in case we want a tray or an area to set things.

 

[Fastereddie]

So I finished this center console subwoofer I’ve been working on. It houses a 12” sub and I still managed to build in some storage space. I wanted this set up so I can have my tunes and have full cargo space too! Only loss is a little bit of console storage. I may build a “corral” around the 4wd shifter for an extra place to toss stuff, which is something we found lacking when camping or on road trips. It sounds awesome, better than my last sub...having it up front increases the staging effect. More explanations in the pics...View attachment 290697

Used 1” dowels to reinforce the panels. This decreases unwanted resonance, and increases strength, and it preserves the wood’s integrity over time. They are off center to accommodate the port and the sub’s magnet.
View attachment 290698

DIY filler out of sawdust and glue to fill the pocket holes.
View attachment 290699

The top is 1/2” ply, built on top of the 3/4 mdf. I used glue and pocket screws for the whole thing.
View attachment 290700

I coated it inside and out with rubber leak seal to protect against moisture and spills.
View attachment 290701

I’m surprised at how well I killed it on this carpet job, if I may toot my own horn. Besides the lid, it’s all one piece. The seam is near the port in the front. Can you see it?
View attachment 290702

Added a lock. It’s not exactly Fort Knox, but it’ll secure the lid and deter opportunistic thieves.
View attachment 290703

Fits an atlas!
View attachment 290704

I didn’t want any brackets showing on the outside, so I went through the bottom which meant adding fender washers with homemade neoprene gaskets to seal it up.
View attachment 290705

A close up of the rear legs. They use the seat belt pads/bolts. The console is well secured and very stable.
View attachment 290706

The front brackets where the original console mounted. I only drilled two more holes for this project.
View attachment 290707

Wiring it up! I chose this sub for its precision response and it’s a great compliment to the suburban’s acoustics.
View attachment 290708

The bottom. Took a lot of time to plan and fab the mounts. The front is designed that way so I can access the mount bolts easily. I welded nuts on them so I don’t need to mess with a wrench. I put a grill so errant feet or gear don’t damage the sub. Downfiring gives the sub something to load off of for better bass resonance.
View attachment 290709

Forward facing port for better fill. The whole box was built exactly to the manufacturer’s specs.
View attachment 290710

The passenger seat folds flat. The console is JUST a tad higher. This flat area is where we toss our bags when sleeping inside (while camping).
View attachment 290711

The storage. I put rubber mats in there to keep things quiet.
View attachment 290712

Gap between seats...tight, but it fits! No leg interference.
View attachment 290713

This is where my arm rests. It’s the same height as the arm rests on the seats. That’s a tuffy cup holder. I will Velcro it down so it can be moved anywhere in that front area (or even on the sides). The carpet holds Velcro really well.
View attachment 290714

It’s dirty I know. Three dogs...
View attachment 290715

The lid can slide off the hinges when open past 90 degrees, in case we want a tray or an area to set things.
View attachment 290716

Looks and sounds like you put a lot of thought into that sucker. Nice work!

 

[nutt7]

Looks and sounds like you put a lot of thought into that sucker. Nice work!

Thank you, yes! Definitely more time planning and measuring than anything else. It was a compromise on space and size so it took a long time. I wanted it to be armrest height, level despite the uneven floor, high enough to clear the sub, same height as the folded seat, not interfere with the shifter, not look overly bulky, sound good, be easily removed, and still allow the middle seat to fold all the way forward.

 

[AugustDiesel]

That is a really impressive build. I have been thinking about modifying my existing console to include some switches and auxiliary stuff, but now just may be enticed to build a new one and incorporate a sub! Very clean, very professional, very functional. And no, I cannot see that seam, I’m sure that’s what you’re going for! Nice work!

Andy

 

[nutt7]

So lately I’ve been working on an auxiliary battery to run my fridge and other small circuits while camping for longer trips. Also, the Canyonero has been through many layers of electrical repairs and upgrades which have gotten a little sloppy. I also hope to clean up the wiring a bit too. The concept is to have all accessories run from the windstar fuse box I bought, and be able to switch which battery powers it all/gets charged. The only exception is the starter and solenoid. That will always be run from the original battery, but it is effectively isolated from the house battery unless the switch combines the batteries.

I found a driver side battery tray but learned my new battery was a bit too big so I had to fab a tie down and add a custom spacer under it *cough* plywood *cough* to make it sit more comfortably and securely.




I bent up a piece of scrap sheet to make a shelf on top of the inner fender to house the fuse box, battery switch, and ammo can.


Welded nuts/studs underneath to make installs/mods easier.


The ammo can is bolted down, and the displaced wiper washer bottle bolts to it. The blue sea switch runs either, neither, or both batteries. The black bracket is for the windstar fuse box that’ll power a lot of my stuff.


I used some clamps to secure the 2awg welding cable from the original battery. The red stuff is chafe tape.


I used terminal fuse blocks. I like how compact they are. I will add another ground to the frame later.


The original battery. I used clear adhesive lined shrink tube and made a few labels too.


Still a work in progress, but the wire is very secure and should not impede access to anything.


More to come later!

 

[nutt7]

Long time, no update! But I'm still around. I’ll do like 4 updates in a row...and as usual, they will be picture heavy. I recently did a massive wiring upgrade. I put the windstar fusebox under the hood, did the dual battery set up, ran supplemental wiring to the cab, wired a remote start, an amp, and I built and wired a switch panel. I can’t tell you how many wires and relays I ran, but I kept them tidy though!

Here is the inside of the fuse/relay box. I rewired almost all of it. It’s nearer than factory.


Many of you will recognize these distribution blocks...one is supplied 12v from the fuse box. The other is supplied 12v ignition from a 70a relay shown below. They aren’t visible while driving.


I made a little bracket to tuck above the kick panel. I mounted a junkyard relay box to it. Left is ignition power, right is ignition 2, like AC stuff.


I like to solder, but 4 10awg wires makes soldering difficult so I cut a copper lug and used it as a crimp ferrule. Worked really well! I used adhesive lined heat shrink on most connections.


The same fuse pair as above, but this one is for the windstar fans...


I used this relay pack for alarm accessories. I like reusing old things. It handles the power locks, a starter interrupt, and dome light circuit.


One wire at a time!


My ignition switch was iffy so I replaced it. Here is one of the splices. It receives its own dedicated 12v supply from the fuse box now.


Cab grounding was weak so I made this ground point behind the pedals. On the other side of the bolt is a 4awg wire going to the frame. This ground will help supplement the new circuits and anything factory.


Another view of the fuse/relay box. It does have a cover for the wires but I also smeared them up with dielectric grease to fight corrosion.


How I solder! I’ve been using waxed lace tape to bundle wires too. I kinda like it over zip ties.


My alarm antenna, compass mirror, Bluetooth mic, and motion sensor wires got routed through the A pillar


Here is the access hole to route them. It was a pain to run a fish wire through there...


Some cabling for the switch panel and secondary fuse panel, and amp wires.


The mini fuse box is for my voltmeter for both batteries and the alternator voltage sense wire. I ran the fuse box bundle so I can tip it up for access/additions.


The blue sea fuse panel mount.


I had to get a new windstar fan set since one went bad. This time I covered a hole with some scrap aluminum that allowed air to bypass the radiator.


My starter solenoid, a result of heat ruined wires...


I added a power post for easy heavy wire mounting. This ties the fuse panel, the amp, and the alternator together.


Tucked the windstar relays back here. The drop resistor for low speed is there to the left.


More to come! Ask if you have questions.

 

[nutt7]

Part 2

Lol, it time to clean the carpet...


The headliner had to come out for wires. It’s trash. I’ll show you what I did in on a minute...


This carpet was nasty


Hard to tell, but the power washer at the car wash made a HUGE difference.


Eww. 30 years of camping, off roading, and just spilling things.


One wire at a time. Used duct tape to hold things in place


One day I’ll do door speakers from the amp so I ran the wires and left them under the carpet...


Getting the amp wired as well as the gray and yellow wires for accessories.


Under the carpet!


I think when the heater core leaked it flakes up the paint causing a little corrosion...nothing major, but I cleaned it and primered it.


I put studs through the floor for the amp. I used rubber grommets to keep water out.


I took my hole saw to some scrap wood to make standoffs to keep the amp off the floor for cooling/moisture/cable management. It’ll fit under my back seat or under my platform floor.

 

[nutt7]

Part 3. Switch panel

I used this old abs sheet to build my panel. A lot of scoring, heating, and bending.


Made a little bracket to mount it to. Access to the fuse panel had to be easily doable...it mostly is, lol.


Some pre-wiring. The switches too light comes on with the circuit, the bottom strip comes on with parking lights.


Some of the wiring...


The accessories. A switchable volt meter for left/right batteries, standard 12v socket, dual 2.4a usb chargers, and a usb/3.5mm input for the stereo. Also notice the cheesy “wings” those divert the vent air to the sides. It made it uglier, but better functioning.


All mounted up. They aren’t intrusive, but need a slight reach to turn on. Nothing crazy though. Most are future options, but they are all wired. I only use the fan, battery, courtesy lights, and rear lights right now.


The mess. Had to keep the bundle a little loose for access.


Lots of crimping, lol. Doing the fan circuit was fun (2nd from the left)


Yes they sent me a blue LED one by mistake, but promptly sent me the correct one! The switches are legit calling switches. Most were on clearance at Over The River...

 

[nutt7]

Part 4: Headliner!
I wanted a little different here...

I put R Max double reflective 1/2 inch foam board between the roof ribs. It makes a difference! Ac cools faster and stays cool longer


I literally swept most of the moon-dust-eye-itching-drink-ruining foam away. Didn’t know it had foam top AND bottom


Final touches of removal


Glued reflectix to the top for a little more insulation.


I used DAP weldwood since I had it on hand. It was difficult to apply to the fabric, a spray would have been better. We will see if it holds


I wanted some color and something less beige to wake up to when camping!


Installed!

 

[Fastereddie]

Yep, that’s a hell of an update. Looking good!

 

[ashman]

Dude! Awesome update. Your wiring stuff is fantastic! I'd love to go through and clean up some of my wiring mess too.

 

[nutt7]

Dude! Awesome update. Your wiring stuff is fantastic! I'd love to go through and clean up some of my wiring mess too.

Thanks! There is SO much more about the wiring I didn’t post. It was at least as challenging as the bumper. I documented all the wires/colors...just need to make a wiring diagram

 

[ashman]

A diagram is a must! When I wired in my ls in the '72 I made sure to document every wire and color. It's been a godsend a few times.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Dude, that headliner def has some color to it!

DAP is good stuff, I've used it in upholstery a few times on projects here. Stands up to AZ heat pretty well.

 

[nutt7]

Dude, that headliner def has some color to it!

DAP is good stuff, I've used it in upholstery a few times on projects here. Stands up to AZ heat pretty well.

That’s good to know! I thought the headliner would be distracting, but it’s not.

 

[Earldub21]

The only one that I have on my phone. I'll snap a few when I walk out to go home. I shortened it so I could add a second row of seats. Really high quality.

Hey man, where did you get the bumper with the rear tire carrier?