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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

I believe I have been talking to Gary about them. Everybody at S&P is very friendly, and if you tell them what you are looking for, they will get you to the right people.

Mine came last night, and I just opened them up about 5 minutes ago.

Very nice, rough cost?
 
Im thinking 650 ish. I got the heat coating and vclamps which is like 100 extra
 
Headers Installed

Not sure if anybody cares about this, but they did engrave my name on the headers (which was a surprise to me, not requested)

Headers Name.jpg

Headers Driver Side.jpg

Headers Driver Side 2.jpg

Headers Driver Side 3.jpg
 
Headers Installed 2

Passenger Side

I really think S&P out did themselves on these headers. The tolerances are so tight, but not to tight as to cause interference problems (1/8th to 1/4").

Since I have never turned the engine over, I cannot speak to the performance, but would definitely recommend them to others based upon the fit.

Headers Passenger Side.jpg

Headers Passenger Side 2.jpg

Headers Passenger Side 3.jpg
 
I know you posted about this before but could you go into detail about making the ord cross member fit?
 
I am not trying to dodge your question or be a jerk about it, but I am not really sure there is much detail to talk about. It is just difficult to do (by yourself at least).

The two tips I could provide you is...
1. Drill a couple of the holes a little bigger so you have wiggle room. It was really difficult to get the holes perfect because the drill length interfered with the axle and drag link when approaching it from the bottom. The drill length was also an issue when drilling from the top (because the C nature of the frame, you cannot get a straight/level angle while drilling)

2. I ended up removing one and loosening the other mount (where the motor mount bolts) to help get all the holes to line up. This however made it a little difficult to get the 2nd ORD motor mount on. (I put the dirty dingo mounts on loose, then the ORD mounts, set the engine in, got my mounts bolts in then made sure the engine was straight, I used the stock crossmember position and allowed it to determine the engine placement on the dirty dingo mount)
 
Not sure if anybody cares about this, but they did engrave my name on the headers (which was a surprise to me, not requested)

I thought that was cool also, that they had mine name and LS1 truck stamped on them. They must do that to all of them. i believe you will be very happy with the performance of them also.
 
I am not trying to dodge your question or be a jerk about it, but I am not really sure there is much detail to talk about. It is just difficult to do (by yourself at least).

The two tips I could provide you is...
1. Drill a couple of the holes a little bigger so you have wiggle room. It was really difficult to get the holes perfect because the drill length interfered with the axle and drag link when approaching it from the bottom. The drill length was also an issue when drilling from the top (because the C nature of the frame, you cannot get a straight/level angle while drilling)

2. I ended up removing one and loosening the other mount (where the motor mount bolts) to help get all the holes to line up. This however made it a little difficult to get the 2nd ORD motor mount on. (I put the dirty dingo mounts on loose, then the ORD mounts, set the engine in, got my mounts bolts in then made sure the engine was straight, I used the stock crossmember position and allowed it to determine the engine placement on the dirty dingo mount)

Thanks, I know you had to have some pieces custom fitted, that is what I'm more concerned about.
 
I had a custom washer made for the ord motor mount to fit with the dirty dingo and the of course the headers, but most everything else is direct aftermarket.
 
Do you happen to have a up close picture of that? I'm wondering if they will make me one where I don't need the washer.
 
You can kinda see the setup in post #169.

You either need the ORD motor mount 1" wider (less the width of the washers) or the Dirty Dingo mount 1" narrower.

I do not see the problem with my setup, especially vs the $ of custom fab, but agree it would be nice to find something that was premade compatible.

ORD's mounts position the engine higher, which you do not need if you are flexible on engine position (front to rear), but help if you are not or are unsure. I can move mine against the firewall and about 6" or so more forward than the DD bracket will allow.
 
How much clearance would you say you have? I have to clear a truck oil pan which I think its deeper then yours
 
I think at least an 1" or so. I will have to look when I get back in town.
 
Post 169 again. Has to be at least an inch. also noticed I had a typo. Meant plenty not pretty.
 
Getting Ready to Gear Up Again

Project hit a bit of a wall with the baby arriving. I got a couple of small house projects in the way, but I am hoping to get back on it by March.

I thought I would post this humorous link about DIY projects. I have been through several of these steps, and would have probably given up if it was not for the amazing support I have gotten through the ColoradoK5 forum.

The 21 Infuriating Steps to Completing Any DIY Project

Greyson and Betty.JPG
 
Very sweet, congrats.
Will be nice to see you get back on your K5 project
 
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