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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Dash and Console Mock Up

I thought it would be easier to cut the aluminum inserts if the dash was angular vs being bent. I also thought it would look cooler/break things up a bit. If I had to do it all over again, I would have just bent it. It took so much longer.

Cutting angles in 1 plane, I can do. Cutting in two planes, not as easy, but I can do it. Cutting and notching in a third plane, that is where it really broke down. A lot of trial and error test fitting. Ended up getting it pretty close, and just filling the gaps. It is not like the dash needs to with stand the full weight of the blazer.

Dash Frame.jpg

Dash Frame - Console.jpg

Dash Frame - Driver.jpg
 
the console looks familiar... ;)

and I FREAKIN luv the welding table! idear stolen, thanks! :bow: :whistle: :haha:
 
Out of curiosity, (and good ol' 'merican impatience) what are you gonna do about the throw on the t-case shifters? Im assuming the console will be flat aluminum sheet? By the time you have linkage long enough, thatll be quite alot of travel. Not to mention its location with the longer tranny. Or are you using a modern transfer case as well? (I dont recall your plans on this....) im anxious to see more of this scorcery
 
the console looks familiar... ;)

and I FREAKIN luv the welding table! idear stolen, thanks! :bow: :whistle: :haha:

Yeah, I think I said it on here or maybe in a PM, but what I am going for is exactly a poor boy version of your setup. Probably on the thread where I am defending the flanges. The cage is exclusively for a place to mount grab handles (I waiting until I finish with the 1.75" before I change out to the 1.25" die) and to support the dash.

Side note, what angle do you bend your grab handles. I was assuming excess for holding die + stand off then 45 degrees + handle length then 45 degrees + stand off + excess for supporting die.

The welding table was a breeze, other than the top weighs over 1,200 lbs. Have that crane has changed my life. Apparently they are easy to come by a scrap shops because the CNC machines have some sort of gold innards that recylclers love.
 
my grab handles are not the norm per se... they are solid 1" bar, so the bend is much tighter.. done in a vise with a rosebud..

the main objective was to be parallel to the cage tubes.. A-post and the roof one.. so, parallel to the ground on the bottom short section, and parallel to the A-post tube..

sorry, forget my exact angle, but that was the idea..


000_0006_2.jpg
 
I believe the linkage works out just fine. I had it hooked up prior to the engine/tranny install. I was able to use the stock tranny support because of the dirty dingo sliding brackets. That is basically how/why I decided to position the engine where I did.

As far as the shifter, I googled endlessly but could not find an extension/adapter/etc. I was going to either cut a slot in the aluminum plate like the stock pattern, or maybe just bolt the stock plate to the aluminum, and find some sort of rod that I could bend and either union onto the stock shifter with a bolt or just weld it together.

If all else failed, I was going to look into a cable shifter which I initial was against because of the cost, but now that I have re-googled it, looks like they have some NP241 cable shifters for $200 (for jeeps will have to read more to make sure its compatible).

Hell at this point, $200 bucks is easily worth it, with the limited time I get to work on it because of the baby. I can make more money, but a 3 or 4 hours trying to fab up a shifter is hard to come by.

So to answer you question, I think I am going cable shifter, my even swap the tranny over if I am going to go through the trouble of doing the tcase.
 
45 looks close enough. I am going to try to mass produce 8 or so of them. I guess I'll do one and be diligent about the bend lengths and the notching cutoffs then just crank the other 7 out in an assembly line fashion.

I would really like to stick a pair on the outside of the truck as well. Not sure how much weight that pillars skin will hold. Might could try to bolt them through, but that would look pretty tacky on the inside.
 
Any advice on cable shifters would be appreciated. I know the compushift PCM that came with my phoenix tranny can use paddle shifters, might go that route.
 
still following. I'm picking up a hurt LS3 for a project motor too. :waytogo: \never been interested in one for myself till now. should kick ass.
 
Any advice on cable shifters would be appreciated. I know the compushift PCM that came with my phoenix tranny can use paddle shifters, might go that route.
Ordered a B&M hammer shifter for the tranny and single cable shifter from Northwest Fab along with a clocking ring for the tcase.
 
Flip Up Seat Bracket

Working on getting seats now. Anybody familiar with a pre-fabed brackets that flip up like these? I can build them, it is just one more thing to do before the truck runs.

FlipUpSeat.jpg

FlipUpSeat2.jpg

FlipUpSeat3.jpg

FlipUpSeat4.jpg
 
Nevermind on the brackets

I just broke down and ordered a pair of reclining Corbeau Baja XRS (heated) with sliding brackets. I figure sliding them and reclining them forward should give sufficient clearance to enter the rear seat.

96601-f-l.jpg

96601-sr-l.jpg
 
Aluminum Dash

Looks like I am going to have to change directions on the aluminum dash.

The sheet I bought is 4 or so mm thick, and from what I can google I would need a +$5k machine to bend it. I was going to cut and weld it, but spool guns for my welder are a lot more than I remember, probably at least a grand.

I guess I am going to try to take the plate back and see if I can get some trade in credit for thinner steel.
 
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