Mine rode right inside the crossmember and barely scraped only on occasion. but you may wanna take a little off
CK5
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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)
- Thread starter colbystephens
- Start date
A search of the thread says you got your pitman arm from "owenst7". Do you know what application your arm came off on?
I believe a Ford van. I can confirm if you like. 
Ah yes, the same van I can't find locally. I should go to the junk yard and see if a van has came in.I believe a Ford van. I can confirm if you like.
Go for the ORD cross member, it'll be stronger and have all the clearance you need.
So much space. Thinking about mounting my spare tire under here.
That is a lot of clearance!
Make sure you get the big block version because the small block one barely clears my factory pan.
I got the driveshaft back tonight. Unfortunately, it was too late for me to do anything about it for lack of light. It's probably better this way because it snowed last night and the ground is a mess. Tomorrow I'm taking a personal day to get it installed, double-check the brakes are bled properly, hopefully get the e-brake taken care of, and take the truck down to the lube shop on the corner to have all the zerks greased. 
Pics tomorrow! 
So my "completion" to-do list is as follows:
- Exhaust re-do
- Front driveline extension or replacement depending on suspension travel.
- Flex, measure for shocks and check fender trimming.
- Finish trimming fenders, touch up paint, potentially re-install wheel well trim.
- Order shocks.
- Finish routing e-brake (if it's not done tomorrow).
- Install bump stops (for sure) and limiting straps (if needed).
- Clearance the crossmember if needed. If needed, consider replacing with ORD's high clearance crossmember at later time.
Seeing the light at the end of the tunnel = stoked to go wheelin!
Pics tomorrow! So my "completion" to-do list is as follows:
- Exhaust re-do
- Front driveline extension or replacement depending on suspension travel.
- Flex, measure for shocks and check fender trimming.
- Finish trimming fenders, touch up paint, potentially re-install wheel well trim.
- Order shocks.
- Finish routing e-brake (if it's not done tomorrow).
- Install bump stops (for sure) and limiting straps (if needed).
- Clearance the crossmember if needed. If needed, consider replacing with ORD's high clearance crossmember at later time.
Seeing the light at the end of the tunnel = stoked to go wheelin!
pic-1 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr
Still having problems bleeding the brakes, so they're too soft. Going to have to get after it again.
Looks good. They'll self bleed eventually!
Martin
Martin
What do you mean by "self bleed"?
The air will eventually bleed itself to the top. A weak pedal will get better over time, but it is hard to notice sometimes, it isn't a rapid change.
Martin
Martin
I took the truck back up to the lot and tried bleeding the brakes again. I had read online that you should start with the brake which is farthest from the cylinder - so passenger rear, then driver's rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Come to think of it, I mixed up the front two. 
Anyway, it didn't help - feels worse actually. So, I decided that in the morning I will take it across the street to the lube shop and pay the $50 for a flush. It's worth my time and hassle. Plus, my brake system is nasty dirty, and even though I've ran 1.5 quarts of new brake fluid thu it, it's still coming out fairly dark. I suspect this might be the first time in 200,000 miles that anyone has changed the brake fluid.
Anyway, it didn't help - feels worse actually. So, I decided that in the morning I will take it across the street to the lube shop and pay the $50 for a flush. It's worth my time and hassle. Plus, my brake system is nasty dirty, and even though I've ran 1.5 quarts of new brake fluid thu it, it's still coming out fairly dark. I suspect this might be the first time in 200,000 miles that anyone has changed the brake fluid. 
mudboggink5
1/2 ton status
The Blazer looks sweet.
More pics please 
Lookin good
Lookin good
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
Like what was said before, it's amazing how lifting a Blazer a few inches and throwing some bigger tires on it completely transforms the looks of an already nice rig into a completely bad arse looking rig. It looks like it could tackle any kind of terrain there! 
I am really getting eager to buy tires and install my lift on the ol' Suburban now.
I am really getting eager to buy tires and install my lift on the ol' Suburban now.
Do you have anyone helping you bleed the brakes colby?? The best way ive ever found is have someone in it, truck running, have the person press on the pedal, you open the bleeder on the clyinder and then close it, but dont let them take their foot off the pedal untill you have the bleeder tightened back in otherwise it will suck air back in the line, then signal them to take there foot off and repeat the process untill the fluid coming out is not full of bubbles. Just gotta watch the master cylinder and make sure its not getting too low and letting more air in the system. Couple of crack/bleed/tighten at all four corners always works for me. Ive tried the suction guns and found it doesnt compare to the way I described. But you need somebody to help.
That way may be what your doing but just a thought if not
That way may be what your doing but just a thought if not
I did it once that way and then did another method where you run a hose into a small bucket of fluid, attach it to the bleeder, open bleeder and then pump the brake a bunch of times. 
Of course, the ENTIRE system was empty or near empty except the master cylinder when I started, so I suspect that has a lot to do with it.
Of course, the ENTIRE system was empty or near empty except the master cylinder when I started, so I suspect that has a lot to do with it.
