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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

Nice install(s)!Mounted my CB in the same exact spot! I also have a UHF radio mounted to the front on GMRS frequencies for those that dont have a CB. This one communicates with the "talk about" radios. I scored a "Tuffy" console at my local junk yard for $15. So all my electronics will end up inside it for topless protection!
 
Flipping the lid as in flipping the lid so that you can sort of see the air filter?

Proven to make more noise and make people talk about all the extra pep they have. Not proven to make any more power or mpg and has been talked about loss of power.

You're now sucking hot air down instead of cooler outside air.
 
Yeah, I know the arguments in both directions. However, since I know that my cold air intake wasn't working properly, then I know that it was essentially getting smothered. So, I'm at least getting more air than I was before. Now, with that said, I highly doubt there's a significant difference between flipping the lid and a properly functioning cold air intake. I might re-plumb it to the fender tho. That would be nice. But, not sure it's worth my time.
 
Just find a straight tube. Not sure what that whole flapper thing you were talking about was. My '92 and most TBI trucks I ever saw just had a tube going from the intake housing straight to the fender or the core support.
 
there's a butterfly-valve type "flap" in the housing for the air filter. It's operated by a tube that runs from the manifold. I'll probably end up cutting that out and running a tube, like you suggest, to a fender or something.
 
That's the warm air duct for cold weather. You can eliminate that pretty easily. My '92 did fine without it in Michigan winters.
 
Ok, Here's my parts list for the axle swap and suspension lift. Please look at my list and tell me if I missed anything. I want to have everything I need so that the lift process is more or less a weekend jobber. I don't want to have my truck down for more than a weekend or so, particularly since I'll be doing this job likely at another CK5 member's house here in town...


[ ] Dana 60, 14 bolt full float w/ Detroit locker.

* Dodge 60 from member in San Jose
* Take 14BFF w/ Detroit out of the '73
* San Jose member can install gears in both axles

[ ] Appropriate washers/bushings etc. necessary to properly install a Dodge 60 into my Chevy. Can someone tell me what exactly is needed here?

[ ] Dana 60 5.13 gear options:
* Only supplier of thick 5.13s if I decide to use the 4.10 down carrier: $245
* http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-5831319-dana-60-5-13-thick-nitro.html
* Randy's Ring and Pinion: $202.71
* http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3742&Product=ZG_D60-513&Brand=USA_Standard_Gear
* This is probably the better option since I have access to a 4.56 up carrier. Saves $40, and it won't have to ship across the country.

[ ] 14 bolt full float 5.13 gear options:
* Randy's Ring and Pinion: $239.19
* http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDe...Product=ZG_GM14T-513T&Brand=USA_Standard_Gear

[ ] Install kits for both axles.
[ ] Install 5" lift
* Use existing Pro-comp lift springs from the '73.
* Use existing Rancho shocks to get the truck going, but plan to replace them with good, long travel shocks.
* Get EZ inch lift blocks from DIY4x: $33/axle - $66 in total, and relocate axles 1.5" forward and backward.
* http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=128

[ ] 1" Body lift might be necessary, but probably not during the January lift phase.
* DIY4x: $6/puck. (How many body lift pucks would I need?)

[ ] Conversion U-Joints
[ ] U-bolts
[ ] Raised Steering Arm.
[ ] Extended Brake Lines
* Take them from the '73.

[ ] Gear oil.
[ ] RTV sealer.
 
How about drive shafts? Also what tires are you planning on? I thought this was going to be a mild street and trail truck?
 
Driveshafts I'm hoping won't have to change. Hoping. I'd like to do some high end shafts sometime in the future, perhaps if I can do a slip-yoke eliminator on the 241.

My goal is to have it as capable or more capable than my '73 was, but have it built in a way that makes it still functional as a Blazer - available for carrying cargo. I didn't mind the way my truck handled in town. The cargo issue was my big gripe with my other truck (aside from all the problems I didn't want to have to fix...:doah:). I built the cage in a way to where I couldn't carry anything, and then I put the fuel tank on top of the frame and was no longer able to put hardly anything in the back.

I'll be running my 38" Swamper SS tires.
 
Colby, on the Dodge 60 install, I have seen it done 2 ways.

1) simply "pull" the springs together and bolt everything down :D

2) A friend of mine trimmed approx 1/4" of the spring bushing off of one side and then used a 1/4" washer (made from some plate using a 2" hole saw) on the other side to basicly "shift" the spring packs together approx 1/2 inch. It worked well and he drove and wheeled the truck for years with no issues.
 
Last edited:
jt512 said:
Colby, on the Dodge 60 install, I have seen it done 2 ways.

1) simply "pull" the springs together and bolt everything down :D

2) A friend of mine trimmed approx 1/4 of the spring bushing off of one side and then used a 1/4 washer (made from some plate using a 2" hole saw) on the other side to basicly "shift" the spring packs together approx 1/2 inch. It worked well and he drove and wheeled the truck for years with no issues.
Click to expand...


Option 2 is how i'd like to go. Thanks!

While I know that option 1 has been done, for me this is the "do it right build" and I just feel like there are better options than pulling it together. Not sure if it's true in the real world, but mentally I would just feel better about properly modifying stuff.
 
colbystephens said:
Option 2 is how i'd like to go. Thanks!

While I know that option 1 has been done, for me this is the "do it right build" and I just feel like there are better options than pulling it together. Not sure if it's true in the real world, but mentally I would just feel better about properly modifying stuff.
Click to expand...

I totally agree :waytogo:
 
5" may require a different shaft in the back. Not positive. Only saying because I bought my k5 lifted 6". There was an after market shaft in it then. I have a slip yoke eliminator I'll be installing... So the shaft I have (with 14 bolt conversion Joint) may be avail. If this is something you may be interested in, Measure your stock shaft and I'll measure the one that'll be coming out of mine. This would be out of a '91 with a 700r4 and np241.
 
I had a 700/208 once that didn't require immediate driveshaft stuff w/ 4".... so I'm hoping to get away with 5. We'll see. I'll keep you in mind. :)
 
Today I'm partially working on a midterm paper, making a new exposure with this camera that I've invented (exposure time on the order of 8 hours, so I gotta kill some time!), and I am procrastinating on the paper by painting my headlight bezels. Since I had to pull the grille to install the aux. trans. cooler, I figured I'd take the opportunity to freshen it up a little. Grille will get painted a different day. In the meantime, the truck looks like crap without the grille. :doah:


Photo0227 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr
 
colbystephens said:
Ok, Here's my parts list for the axle swap and suspension lift. Please look at my list and tell me if I missed anything. I want to have everything I need so that the lift process is more or less a weekend jobber. I don't want to have my truck down for more than a weekend or so, particularly since I'll be doing this job likely at another CK5 member's house here in town...


[ ] Dana 60, 14 bolt full float w/ Detroit locker.

* Dodge 60 from member in San Jose
* Take 14BFF w/ Detroit out of the '73
* San Jose member can install gears in both axles

[ ] Appropriate washers/bushings etc. necessary to properly install a Dodge 60 into my Chevy. Can someone tell me what exactly is needed here?

[ ] Dana 60 5.13 gear options:
* Only supplier of thick 5.13s if I decide to use the 4.10 down carrier: $245
* http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-5831319-dana-60-5-13-thick-nitro.html
* Randy's Ring and Pinion: $202.71
* http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3742&Product=ZG_D60-513&Brand=USA_Standard_Gear
* This is probably the better option since I have access to a 4.56 up carrier. Saves $40, and it won't have to ship across the country.

[ ] 14 bolt full float 5.13 gear options:
* Randy's Ring and Pinion: $239.19
* http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDe...Product=ZG_GM14T-513T&Brand=USA_Standard_Gear

[ ] Install kits for both axles.
[ ] Install 5" lift
* Use existing Pro-comp lift springs from the '73.
* Use existing Rancho shocks to get the truck going, but plan to replace them with good, long travel shocks.
* Get EZ inch lift blocks from DIY4x: $33/axle - $66 in total, and relocate axles 1.5" forward and backward.
* http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=128

[ ] 1" Body lift might be necessary, but probably not during the January lift phase.
* DIY4x: $6/puck. (How many body lift pucks would I need?)

[ ] Conversion U-Joints
[ ] U-bolts
[ ] Raised Steering Arm.
[ ] Extended Brake Lines
* Take them from the '73.

[ ] Gear oil.
[ ] RTV sealer.
Click to expand...

which SJ member has the 60 your gonna grab?
also make sure to measure on the dshaft if your gonna lift and move the axle further back...
 
You will need new bushings for the rear of the front springs. Your new rig uses a bigger bolt than the '73. I got mine from Tough Country.

Now that I think about it, I may have the bushings you need. When you can, take the nut off one of the rear bolts and measure the diameter.
 
The frame under my '73 is from an '83. Will that still be different than my '90?
 
'88 and up used a bigger diameter bolt on the rear front spring hangar.
 
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