'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

[max 02]

That looks AWESOME!!!

If you were to paint it green it would be my new favorite truck.
JK really looks great Colby! Nice work.

 

[colbystephens]

I've contemplated the green. I'm just not sure how I feel about a half cab that color. While I think there are better colors out there than what I've got, I dislike my current color scheme less now that the truck looks tougher.

 

[DK5]

That looks Good!

 

[496truck]

I've contemplated the green. I'm just not sure how I feel about a half cab that color. While I think there are better colors out there than what I've got, I dislike my current color scheme less now that the truck looks tougher.

Don't you dare paint it green. That blue on white 2 tone has character.

It looked good before. It looks better now.

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

That looks amazing!

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...e666_z.jpg">&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13268404907001

 

[Deuling]

Looks sick Colby

 

[y5mgisi]

That is effin bad ass!

 

[muddysub]

sexy looking truck Colby! and i like the white/blue, my suburban was that color scheme before it all flaked off. i'm sure its been said, but what size are those SSRs?

 

[scottishdave]

Pretty interesting Tie-Rod you got there...That some sort of cool new High-Steer?

Looks great....I would keep it that color too, Looks amazing.

 

[colbystephens]

Don't you dare paint it green. That blue on white 2 tone has character.

It looked good before. It looks better now.

Thanks for the compliments. The thing I don't care for about this 2-tone is that the color change is right on the body line. As such, you can't see the contours of the body, which I think is the most interesting part of the Blazer's aesthetic... Sheesh. Ask an artist about truck bodies and you get art words on a truck forum like "aesthetic."

sexy looking truck Colby! and i like the white/blue, my suburban was that color scheme before it all flaked off. i'm sure its been said, but what size are those SSRs?

38" tall.

Pretty interesting Tie-Rod you got there...That some sort of cool new High-Steer?

Looks great....I would keep it that color too, Looks amazing.

That's the old drag link.

 

[jt512]

Awesome job man the truck really looks great !!!!

How did the 60 install treat you ?

 

[colbystephens]

The 60 install went OK. I was working alone today, so that made it a challenge. I got real creative with floor jacks and engine cranes, to say the least. I wanted to put new sleeves in my bushings, so I snagged some from the fabricators bushings I had bought from DIY4x and put them in. I didn't pay attention to the fact that they were about 1/2" too short. So when the spring hangars started to move inward and pinch the bushings I knew something was up. Then I had to pull the suspension back out to fix. I had sand blasted the original sleeves, so they were clean and ready to be installed. But then I had to fight the slightly tweaked spring hangars and that was troublesome. But, I got it all in there, so we're good now.

 

[jt512]

Well you know what they say about "the best laid plans" , the important part is, it's in , you've still got all your fingers and toes ( I presume) and your that much closer to the big smile when you drive the new improved K5

 

[colbystephens]

Ok, here's a mini-update. I'll post pics and whatnot later. Today I ordered up the parts I need for the tie rod. I noticed that my stock tie rod nearly comes into contact with the Dana 60 cover. So, going to a thicker tie rod with normal ends isn't an option. I called up RuffStuff and ordered these:

along with weld in bungs and a piece of DOM. Even with $21 shipping, it was cheaper than the EXPENSIVE DOM we have here locally. I think all said and done my total is $140 for the tie rod. That's about the price of an ORD tie rod, though I didn't notice that they had an option for an offset tie rod end.

 

[76zimmer]

Colby, looks like its coming together nicely...but one thing caught my eye...you mentioned 5/8" studs, is that what your running? the 1ton stuff is 9/16" just wondering?

 

[colbystephens]

In a thread I had about the studs, someone said that the stock size was 5/8" x 11 TPI. I bought those bolts and found that they didn't fit. Went back and got the proper 9/16" grade 8 bolt and installed that today.

 

[colbystephens]

I got a lot accomplished today. Got the 2wd sector shaft installed into the steering box and the pitman arm installed as well. Much thanks to "owenst7" for coming over to walk me through that process. Refilled and bled the power steering system. Filled the differentials with oil. Took the rear driveline in to be lengthened.

Got a new battery because mine was toast - wouldn't start my truck in mildly cold weather (20*). 7 year warranty, 1000 CA, 800 CCA. Glad for that! Snow wheeling/camping is my favorite thing, so I sure wouldn't want to be stuck up there because of a bad-battery issue.

As an aside, I think in 500 miles after the gears are broken in and I replace the gear oil, I think I'll replace the oil in the transmission and transfercase. T-Case oil is getting fairly dark too. That way I can know that ALL fluids in the truck will have been replaced at about 200,000 miles.

A little picture update. Here's how it sits right now. Lookin good! Wish I would've pulled the driveshaft out before the pic was taken, as well as removing the jackstand-wheel chocks because that sky is pretty dang dramatic. Makes for a cool photo.


New-5 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr

Preliminary front fender trimming. I'll have to do a bit more, as I haven't even cut the back of the front fenders yet. But, I want to cut as little as is necessary and I need the truck to drive to test the flex. I'm now considering not putting the trim piece back on the fender. We'll see.


New-4 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr

Ignore the hanging chad there on the rear of this rear fender. The final cut is where the line is.


New-3 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr

Here's something that kinda bugs me. When I had the exhaust replaced on this truck, I told the guy I didn't think the system he put in would work because the driveshaft would hit the exhaust during suspension articulation, and that it would be particularly true because I was intending to lift the truck 5". He assured me that there would be enough clearance. Wrong.


New-1 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr


New-2 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr

I realized that when my stock suspension was articulating, that even then the driveshaft was riding on the exhaust. So, next week after I get my rear shaft back, I'll drive it out there and see what he says. Maybe he'll work with me on a reduced price. :fingerscrossed:

My remaining to-dos before the truck is drivable:

• Bleed Brakes
• Build/install draglink and tie rod
• Install conversion U-Joint
• Cut center pins on front springs down
• Cut out sway bar

My remaining to-dos before the truck is wheelable:

• Flex, measure for shocks
• Buy and install shocks
• Route E-Brake cables (Tips on cusom e-brake cable routing???)
• Reroute the exhaust
• extand front driveline
• Bump stops and limiter straps. Figure I'll use my old racing harness for the limiters since no one seems to want to buy it.

Both my lists are pretty short at this point, and I'm feeling real good about that. Unfortunately, the driveline shop says it won't be till Monday that I get my driveline back, so I've got 3 days to kill doing the first list and dinky little maintenance things. I'll probably get all of that first list done either tomorrow or Saturday depending on when my last shipment from Ruffstuff arrives for the steering components that I'm waiting for. The other thing I need to do is track down a shorted circuit in my stereo/horn/interior light/CB circuit that keeps blowing my fuses. The driveshaft delay will give me an opportunity to do it, I guess.

 

[blazinzuk]

My exhuast is run right in front of the tranny pan, above the driveline. It doesn't hit anywhere in the front, might see if he could do that.

I have not had a problem with the head from the exhaust, if you think you might some DEI stuff ( heat reflective stuff) or exhaust wrap would be the way to go.

 

[colbystephens]

That's how I'd like to have him run the exhaust. Wish I would've pressed him to do it that way to begin with.

 

[kgblazerfive]

Or keep going back until its past the t-case and then go to the drivers side. Mine runs basically under my oil pan, there was more room then under the torque converter.