What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

colbystephens said:
Quick lumber rack update.

I built some mounting brackets for the lumber rack yesterday. I still need to drill holes, paint and get bolts, but I'm mostly done. I am considering pulling late evening in the shop tonight to finish it up. I suppose I also need to make some plates for the inside of the top too, but that shouldn't take more than a few minutes to just throw some material in the shear and drill the proper holes. ;)


Lumber Rack-3 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr


Lumber Rack-2 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr


Lumber Rack-1 by colbyjstephens, on Flickr
Click to expand...

that rack looks sweet!
 
kauzenkaos: That dash is just the stock one for my '90. It's all one piece, though I can see how you would imagine that it's a 2-piece. I would have liked it to be two pieces, as it was challenging to remove the other day!

dean - thanks!
 
colbystephens said:
kauzenkaos: That dash is just the stock one for my '90. It's all one piece, though I can see how you would imagine that it's a 2-piece. I would have liked it to be two pieces, as it was challenging to remove the other day!

dean - thanks!
Click to expand...

Got my hopes up. Still never seen a bezel with the piece just to the right of the column like that it must have been what threw me off, and that my dash covers the piece that sticks out a little on the top right of the radio. If it was a two piece setup i would have more room to open up the hole around the trans controller and mount it more flush. As it is now i dont want to attach the controller straight to the bezel because like you said its already challanging enough to get that thing off with the few wires and switches i already have mounted in it.

6248901656_90fe35efc0 2.jpg

20120324_104323.jpg

20120324_104237.jpg
 
seems like a metal cover plate would work well for what you want to do. A cut-off wheel and a hole saw should do. :)
 
The rack looks good. What did you cut the long radius on the rear mounts with?
 
Huh guess it's me with the weird bezel. I work on a 90 blazer and burb I'll have to pay attention now and see if I really am the odd one out
 
Avery4jc said:
The rack looks good. What did you cut the long radius on the rear mounts with?
Click to expand...

Thanks. :) I used a 4.5" angle grinder and cut off wheel. I was going to break out the plasma cutter, and drag along a template, but I'm pretty good with the wheel. They came out pretty nice.

Anyone know where I could get some conical washers? I bolted my rack to the mock-up hard top this evening, and I'm not real pleased with how the bolts sit all funky due to the different angles between the outer shell and the inside.
 
:dunno:
colbystephens said:
Thanks. :) I used a 4.5" angle grinder and cut off wheel. I was going to break out the plasma cutter, and drag along a template, but I'm pretty good with the wheel. They came out pretty nice.

Anyone know where I could get some conical washers? I bolted my rack to the mock-up hard top this evening, and I'm not real pleased with how the bolts sit all funky due to the different angles between the outer shell and the inside.
Click to expand...

Well I don't know how well that would work in your case but I keep some of those round valve rocker arm washers for stuff like that, I could give you some.
 
colbystephens said:
Thanks. :) I used a 4.5" angle grinder and cut off wheel. I was going to break out the plasma cutter, and drag along a template, but I'm pretty good with the wheel. They came out pretty nice.

Anyone know where I could get some conical washers? I bolted my rack to the mock-up hard top this evening, and I'm not real pleased with how the bolts sit all funky due to the different angles between the outer shell and the inside.
Click to expand...

If you have an ace or a osh near bye they have them in the bolt section. Usually they're in the little slide out trays instead of hanging
 
So I'm getting frustrated. I'm still getting a lot of driveline binding when going up hill. Today I had 3 friends in the back + my dog and tools, so the rear end was sagging down. I'm thinking that the weight is sagging back on the truck, and extending the front end a bit, causing the driveline binding. On downhills, and most flats, I don't have the problem.

I've clearanced the driveline as much as I'm comfortable with. I'm thinking my next step should be to put an inch or two of lift in the rear of the truck. I'm thinking of getting a 2" slab of steel and cutting it down in the band saw. I'm also thinking I could try a degreed shim up front, but don't want to deal with death wobble.

IDEAS?
 
The problem he's running into is that the NP208 CV drivelines are designed with very little operating angle. They have built in "ears" even to keep them from moving much in angle.

Colby did grind those ears some for more clearance. Comparing it to a NP205 driveline, the NP205 has far more room built into the CV area for movement (operating angle).
 
Guess it might be time to get rid of the 208 drive shaft, I thought it was a custom one that he was having all these problems with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom