No but there should be enough pressure, I'm using an aeromotive. I found out that the ecm actually shuts off the fuel injector pulse, which makes a lot of sense because it dies almost immediately
CK5
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91' Blazer 6.0 LS, 4l80e, Nose swap, Full Top Conversion, and Restoration
- Thread starter Coontail
- Start date
Ok so I sent the pcm to Brendan at lt1swap today, so unfortunately no start up video for about a week probably
I'm very close to buying the whole nose from Auto Metal Direct through summit. I've heard a lot of good things about them but they're customer service is apparently pretty bad. Thinking about buying the 73 embossed tailgate, does anyone know if I can run a power window through this tailgate?
Sorry for all the questions lately
I'm very close to buying the whole nose from Auto Metal Direct through summit. I've heard a lot of good things about them but they're customer service is apparently pretty bad. Thinking about buying the 73 embossed tailgate, does anyone know if I can run a power window through this tailgate?
Sorry for all the questions lately
UPDATE
I got a new pcm back from lt1swap today because my other one was locked by the previous tuner. I hooked it up, cranked, fired for a second, died. After that it just cranked and cranked and cranked. No matter what we tried it wouldn't fire.
Looked at the plugs they were fouled and covered in fuel. Got new plugs, still wouldn't fire. I pull the dipstick and smell gas in the oil
Compression test
Need a new compression tool so tomorrow will be some results. I'm gonna try to borrow a boroscope from Harbor Freight as well. I'm thinking a blown ring, at worst a hole in the Piston
Other news:
I ended up buying aftermarket panels from Auto Metal Direct, pretty much the whole nose, and everything looks pretty good. A couple of small pings on one of the fenders but nothing not fixable. One of the inner wheel wells is a bit dented but also fixable. Once i get them fitted and everything I'm gonna paint the engine bay with vht satin epoxy
I got a new pcm back from lt1swap today because my other one was locked by the previous tuner. I hooked it up, cranked, fired for a second, died. After that it just cranked and cranked and cranked. No matter what we tried it wouldn't fire.
Looked at the plugs they were fouled and covered in fuel. Got new plugs, still wouldn't fire. I pull the dipstick and smell gas in the oil
Compression test
Need a new compression tool so tomorrow will be some results. I'm gonna try to borrow a boroscope from Harbor Freight as well. I'm thinking a blown ring, at worst a hole in the Piston
Other news:
I ended up buying aftermarket panels from Auto Metal Direct, pretty much the whole nose, and everything looks pretty good. A couple of small pings on one of the fenders but nothing not fixable. One of the inner wheel wells is a bit dented but also fixable. Once i get them fitted and everything I'm gonna paint the engine bay with vht satin epoxy
Do you think the gas in the oil is from the injectors firing with no spark through all the cranking you did? Perhaps you have a stuck injector? Were the wet plugs on all 8 or just 1 or two?
They were all wet but one was excessively drenched. I wouldn't be surprised if the injectors are gummed up though, the engine was sitting for awhile. I'll pull them today and let them soak in something overnight
So I had no compression in all cylinders but one, me and my father started to pull everything off and once we pulled the intake we found the problem...
Paper towels
That explains everything, the injectors were flooding the cylinders causing fuel to leak past the rings and the valves werent sealing via paper towels lol
Somebody must've stuck some in the intake ports with the manifold off and forgot to take the towels out!
Almost everything is hooked up again and tomorrow it should (hopefully) be finally running
Paper towels
That explains everything, the injectors were flooding the cylinders causing fuel to leak past the rings and the valves werent sealing via paper towels lol
Somebody must've stuck some in the intake ports with the manifold off and forgot to take the towels out!
Almost everything is hooked up again and tomorrow it should (hopefully) be finally running
The moment we've all been waiting for 
That’s the way a startup is supposed to go
So just a small update for anyone wondering about using the original DBW pedal
You have to take the pedal and bend it opposite of what it is
For the top bolt hole on the pedal you can re-use the top right hole in the original mounting holes. The bottom i used a 7/16 spacer and the original hardware.
With some tweaking it should be level with the brake pedal or however you prefer it
I'm slowly aligning the body panels and I'm trying to find u bolts for my front driveshaft so I can get this in and out of the bay so it may be a bit till I have any really significant updates
You have to take the pedal and bend it opposite of what it is
For the top bolt hole on the pedal you can re-use the top right hole in the original mounting holes. The bottom i used a 7/16 spacer and the original hardware.
With some tweaking it should be level with the brake pedal or however you prefer it
I'm slowly aligning the body panels and I'm trying to find u bolts for my front driveshaft so I can get this in and out of the bay so it may be a bit till I have any really significant updates
So i decided to cut my radiator support perches in half to accommodate the 73 nose
Before:
After:
My doors weren't aligned very well to get the fenders fitted so I decided to try and align them which turned out to be a hassle. I also figured why bother cause I'm gonna take them off for painting the jams, so while I'm prepping the door jams for paint I need to decide on a color.
I was thinking for a color either a darker green, a really really light green, or mystic brown
I know the brown looks real good in person, opinions?
Before:
After:
My doors weren't aligned very well to get the fenders fitted so I decided to try and align them which turned out to be a hassle. I also figured why bother cause I'm gonna take them off for painting the jams, so while I'm prepping the door jams for paint I need to decide on a color.
I was thinking for a color either a darker green, a really really light green, or mystic brown
I know the brown looks real good in person, opinions?
Brown is 
santiago93c
Newbie
What type of paint do you use when painting parts?Well let's get down to business...
Last weekend I looked on car-part.com and found a NP241C out of a 1990 Burban 1500 in Methuen for a $185. Now I don't know if you've ever been to a salvage yard in Methuen but I had my belongings in a deathgrip. As one of the employees helped bring the T-Case over he gave a crooked smile and said "It's all yours". Naturally I felt reasurred...
Once I got home I snapped a couple pics for the before and after
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1syYTbkBYwF_m5TIVLKCsAyKuGO73dA9t
I tore it apart a few a days ago and discovered some good news! Someone had replaced these things with new things! Love it when that happens
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1d5h4DcaFqzujWaiZIQQtqNSkyZ5aimts
So yesterday I had gotten the unfortunate news of the passing of my uncle so I wanted to keep my mind busy with something. I stripped the cases, cleaned, sandblasted, and painted them. I decided to paint the T-Case a "dark forest green" though when it was wet and the work light was shining on it, it looked more like a turquoise.. good news is it doesn't look turquoise anymore. The transmission and the block i'm gonna paint aluminum so it's nice and shiny. I didn't get any pics of some "befores' and some "afters" but you can use your imagination or ill upload the missing links at some point.
BEFORE:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AoC1slsE5_wUVHDT9fOR5OkwqvcDNwQA
SANDBLASTED:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ovqJU8E-ow-Ph3cAMYpf7GgzxxShItoD
PAINTED (AFTER):
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14gccA4wvkSWJYpdzVO9Kyr0ZuqDIHq2g
Can't wait to get this together, I just need a 32 spline input shaft and i'm all green... ha
I've been using Rust-Oleum high performance but I'm starting to change over to krylon though as it's a better quality
santiago93c
Newbie
Can you use that for the chassis?
I don't know if they make krylon in a can but if I was to do it again I would try to find a semigloss black epoxy to brush on. Definitely don't spray bomb the frame, it would be a wasted effort. Though if you really want to spray get the paint in a can, thin it, and spray it on thick with an hvlp gun
So it's been awhile since I've updated a lot has been going on
I took a screwdriver to my rockers and found this
I also had some rot on my floors so I fabbed some patches and welded them in
I've also been prepping my door jams for paint and removed my dash to get it painted in the coming weeks. I found some rust behind the dash and around the windshield frame as well, I'm planning on wire wheeling it priming over it
It's also been painted a few times...
Paint, Seats, and more is coming soon!
I took a screwdriver to my rockers and found this
I also had some rot on my floors so I fabbed some patches and welded them in
I've also been prepping my door jams for paint and removed my dash to get it painted in the coming weeks. I found some rust behind the dash and around the windshield frame as well, I'm planning on wire wheeling it priming over it
It's also been painted a few times...
Paint, Seats, and more is coming soon!
I would at least use some rust converter on that rust spot before priming. I like ospho. Seen some use vinegar and water.
Been researching painting in mine and I have a fair amount of rust. In some of the more severe spots I’ll be sanding down the rust, ospho, sand, rust encapsulator, sand, then epoxy and paint.
Been researching painting in mine and I have a fair amount of rust. In some of the more severe spots I’ll be sanding down the rust, ospho, sand, rust encapsulator, sand, then epoxy and paint.
I never tried a rust converter I suppose this would be a good time to try it out, I was also thinking about using por-15
I don’t know if I would use POR15 on body work, but I’ve never used it either. From what I understand it’s just an encapsulator.
So just when I thought I was getting close I happened to take a search on Craigslist with my dad and to my luck and unfortunate spending habits I bought a windshield frame from a 75
Full top conversion here we come!
So to start it off I moved the top back and have begun reinforcing the floor in a similar fashion to what another CK5'er did
So far the driver's side is tacked in and tomorrow the passengers side will be stitch welded in along with the driver's side
After this is done the half cab will be cut off and we'll start welding on the older style frame with a backing on the inside for reinforcement to prevent cracking
So with this change I have a dilemma with seats, i was going to use 2016 Silverado seats with new belts and all but now that it's going to be a full top I have no way of mounting the top bolt for the seatbelts. I could fabricate a roll bar but I really don't want one. So now I need to find seats with the belt built in and I know the 2002 era truck seats have it but they are very ugly, I am open to ideas
I also brought the dash, glove box, and Ash tray to my work to get painted and it ended up fish eyeing. So now I will be walnut blasting the glove box cover and ash tray in our blasting cabinet and I'll have the dash sandblasted
More to come
Full top conversion here we come!
So to start it off I moved the top back and have begun reinforcing the floor in a similar fashion to what another CK5'er did
So far the driver's side is tacked in and tomorrow the passengers side will be stitch welded in along with the driver's side
After this is done the half cab will be cut off and we'll start welding on the older style frame with a backing on the inside for reinforcement to prevent cracking
So with this change I have a dilemma with seats, i was going to use 2016 Silverado seats with new belts and all but now that it's going to be a full top I have no way of mounting the top bolt for the seatbelts. I could fabricate a roll bar but I really don't want one. So now I need to find seats with the belt built in and I know the 2002 era truck seats have it but they are very ugly, I am open to ideas
I also brought the dash, glove box, and Ash tray to my work to get painted and it ended up fish eyeing. So now I will be walnut blasting the glove box cover and ash tray in our blasting cabinet and I'll have the dash sandblasted
More to come
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