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91 K5 krip krawler
- Thread starter Kripplek5
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91 Blazer for backcountry exploring/ camping and trail crawling.
Nice truck!
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I love my ST Maxx tires. I have the 37x13.5 variety and they’ve been great for what they are. I don’t have any experience with them out west, though.
To respond to your other thread.....very rarely are mildly built trucks using high steer. I admittedly don’t have experience with high steer in a GM, but I’m told it introduces other problems that aren’t worth the effort. Crossover was definitely worth doing on mine. If you stick with the stock front end and need a knuckle, I’ve already got one drilled, with an arm, and new ball joints. I replaced it with a Reid version a couple weeks after changing ball joints.
Also, my 4.56 were perfect with 35’s and could use 4.88 with the 37s. That’s with a 6.0 and 4L80.
To respond to your other thread.....very rarely are mildly built trucks using high steer. I admittedly don’t have experience with high steer in a GM, but I’m told it introduces other problems that aren’t worth the effort. Crossover was definitely worth doing on mine. If you stick with the stock front end and need a knuckle, I’ve already got one drilled, with an arm, and new ball joints. I replaced it with a Reid version a couple weeks after changing ball joints.
Also, my 4.56 were perfect with 35’s and could use 4.88 with the 37s. That’s with a 6.0 and 4L80.
Excellent build.
As far as your build plans go I think you have a solid idea in the works. I'd go with nothing more than 2" of lift and 33" tires. Going lower and less tire is going to make things work with less requirement for major changes. Keeping the lift low would allow the use of the stock steering setup. You could get away with 3.73's with 33" tires, but since your truck should have a 700r4 I'd take advantage of the OD and run 4.10's in the axles. Keeping on the axles the stock 10 bolts would be just fine, but if you plan on adding limited-slip diffs or lockers, I'd upgrade the axle shafts to Chrome-moly.
Upgrading to one-ton axles is not a bad idea. At the lower lift height and smaller tires they would be virtually bulletproof for sure. But it will be at a cost of reduced ground clearance under the axles, higher price to acquire and further possible modifications to make the 14bolt fit. A 14bolt from a 3/4 ton is a bolt in for the spring pad width and shock mounts, but a 14b from a 1-ton will require the spring pads and shock mounts to be moved.
I'd offer a hybrid solution to the axle options by using a 3/4 ton 14bolt out back for the bolt in nature of it and the brute strength. On the front axle, I'd swap over the 8 lug rotors and brakes from a 3/4 ton 10 bolt. This way you have matching 8lug wheels to the rear axle. I'd still upgrade the 10bolt with chrome-moly shafts to fortify it.
I'm running a very similar setup but with 4" of lift and 35" tires. I've got an 8lug D44 upfront with a tru-trac and a 14bolt out back. I'm running 4.10 gearing. I've got to still upgrade my front axle shafts to chrome-moly since my tru-trac seems to be rougher on the stock shafts. I'm running standard steering and not really felt the need to change to cross over based on my use. The combination has been well used and works very well for me.
As far as your build plans go I think you have a solid idea in the works. I'd go with nothing more than 2" of lift and 33" tires. Going lower and less tire is going to make things work with less requirement for major changes. Keeping the lift low would allow the use of the stock steering setup. You could get away with 3.73's with 33" tires, but since your truck should have a 700r4 I'd take advantage of the OD and run 4.10's in the axles. Keeping on the axles the stock 10 bolts would be just fine, but if you plan on adding limited-slip diffs or lockers, I'd upgrade the axle shafts to Chrome-moly.
Upgrading to one-ton axles is not a bad idea. At the lower lift height and smaller tires they would be virtually bulletproof for sure. But it will be at a cost of reduced ground clearance under the axles, higher price to acquire and further possible modifications to make the 14bolt fit. A 14bolt from a 3/4 ton is a bolt in for the spring pad width and shock mounts, but a 14b from a 1-ton will require the spring pads and shock mounts to be moved.
I'd offer a hybrid solution to the axle options by using a 3/4 ton 14bolt out back for the bolt in nature of it and the brute strength. On the front axle, I'd swap over the 8 lug rotors and brakes from a 3/4 ton 10 bolt. This way you have matching 8lug wheels to the rear axle. I'd still upgrade the 10bolt with chrome-moly shafts to fortify it.
I'm running a very similar setup but with 4" of lift and 35" tires. I've got an 8lug D44 upfront with a tru-trac and a 14bolt out back. I'm running 4.10 gearing. I've got to still upgrade my front axle shafts to chrome-moly since my tru-trac seems to be rougher on the stock shafts. I'm running standard steering and not really felt the need to change to cross over based on my use. The combination has been well used and works very well for me.
I have a 1989 w 2" front - 3"rear lift HD ORD Shackles front and rear fits 33" actual tires. It's got a Borgeson steering shaft and ORD steering brace, ORD sway bar disconnect, the steering is great with the 33"s. My wife is 5'5" she gets in without needing a step but I wouldn't go much higher. If you go to 35" tires you will need more lift going to be pretty tall, plus possibly crossover? I have 4.56 gears and truetracs front and rear with 10 bolts. If you have G80 rear limited slip I would suggest an upgrade mine cracked, fortunately I saw the hairline crack when changing the gear oil before a trip. Its no beast but it is pretty solid, I'm building for reliability and capability for back road hunting, camping , exploring etc.. not built for Rock Climbing or extreme bashing but it's a capable rig. I am definitely NO EXPERT, I'm actually a full blown amatuer compared to the average CK5 member.
This was my stock 10 bolt G80
To respond to your other thread.....very rarely are mildly built trucks using high steer. I admittedly don’t have experience with high steer in a GM, but I’m told it introduces other problems that aren’t worth the effort. Crossover was definitely worth doing on mine.
Also, my 4.56 were perfect with 35’s and could use 4.88 with the 37s. That’s with a 6.0 and 4L80.[/QUOTE]
Thank you for your reply. Do you have 3/4ton axles under your rig? I don't want to just toss money at this for fun and if high steer isn't necessary then I can forego it.
Also, my 4.56 were perfect with 35’s and could use 4.88 with the 37s. That’s with a 6.0 and 4L80.[/QUOTE]
Thank you for your reply. Do you have 3/4ton axles under your rig? I don't want to just toss money at this for fun and if high steer isn't necessary then I can forego it.
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I do have a 3/4 ton axles. I stuck with the 10bolt and 14sf because I was already into gears and e-lockers. I just scored a set of Yukon axles and superjoints from Amazon for cheap. Actually will have a set of superjoints for sale soon too. So between the axles, warm hubs, and crossover with Reid knuckle I should be good for my purposes. Probably shouldn’t be running 37’s, but there aren’t a whole lot of places that a Suburban can fit into onthis side of the country anyway. Mostly built to to be super reliable and get me and the family way into the woods with gear, dogs, and bikes. Or cross country if we want.
Keep this in mind when we are talking about 3/4 ton axles, that meaning could cover a couple of different items. Both the D44 and 10 bolt front axles can be had in both 1/2 ton 6 lug variety and 8 lug 3/4 ton variety. Outside of the different amount of lug studs the two versions are similar in strength. On the rear axles you could have a 14 bolt semi-floater version or 14 bolt full floater. Both are indeed stronger than the 1/2 ton 10 bolt rear axle, but that comes at a penalty of larger size in the housings.
But what might really help is a little more detail to the type of wheeling you are planning on taking on. Is it the hardcore rock crawling trails in and around Moab? Remote backcountry trails like hitting Lockhart basin in Canyonlands NP? Or something milder in between? Milder trails in Moab (or similar type)?
Going on longer more remote trails (overland style) even if they are less technical still require a need for reliability that is similar to what works for the rock crawling crowd as far as strength is concerned. At the tire size of 33-35" tires the 10 bolts could be built to last for sure and save cost to the buildup.
I like getting out into remote areas too. Sometimes it involves some crawling, sometimes I might only pull the t-case lever into low range for a few minutes and back to 2wd. But those remote areas could be 50 miles or more off the nearest paved road so failure is not an option. You have the right idea to make the truck stronger and eliminate fail points to take the possible load off your wife. Having a good idea of the goals/type of wheeling you plan on doing with the truck will help those of us here in some direction on your build. @Truckman4life has given a great example of @500$k5 's truck that is a tad over stock height with smaller tires and is very capable.
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Definitely 4.56 with an overdrive.
Subscribed from your other thread.
what might really help is a little more detail to the type of wheeling you are planning on taking on. Is it the hardcore rock crawling trails in and around Moab? Remote backcountry trails like hitting Lockhart basin in Canyonlands NP? Or something milder in between? Milder trails in Moab (or similar type)?
Having a good idea of the goals/type of wheeling you plan on doing with the truck will help those of us here in some direction on your build.
My goals:
Wheel confidently out into remote backcountry, overland, camp throughout the southwest and Pacific states. I've been wanting to wheel the Rubicon trail and yes the hard rock crawler trails in and around Moab that 35's will allow for since I was 15.
My 4x4 wheeling knowledge comes from mudding in WI as a younger man, my time in the service and drooling over 4Wheeler mags so its pretty small.
Overall biggest fear is stuff breaking and only buying upgrades once if necessary.
Having a good idea of the goals/type of wheeling you plan on doing with the truck will help those of us here in some direction on your build.
My goals:
Wheel confidently out into remote backcountry, overland, camp throughout the southwest and Pacific states. I've been wanting to wheel the Rubicon trail and yes the hard rock crawler trails in and around Moab that 35's will allow for since I was 15.
My 4x4 wheeling knowledge comes from mudding in WI as a younger man, my time in the service and drooling over 4Wheeler mags so its pretty small.
Overall biggest fear is stuff breaking and only buying upgrades once if necessary.
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Rubicon and hard core trails in Moab change things a lot. Especially if your plan isn’t to be hauling it on the trailer or wrenching.
If those were my goals, I don’t think I’d be running anything but built d60 and 14FF. It could be done with the lighter stuff, but not without greater risk of breakage.
If those were my goals, I don’t think I’d be running anything but built d60 and 14FF. It could be done with the lighter stuff, but not without greater risk of breakage.
Agreed. That changes the scope a bit. I'd shoot for D60/14bff in that respect. The debate is still there on the need for cross over, but watching the Dirt Every Day series on MotorTrend proved that a basically stock height K10 could traverse the Rubicon with some body damage. That truck didn't have cross over steering. That same video proved it could be done on 1/2 ton axles, but it wasn't locked either. But for all out reliability, it would be best to have the one-ton axles in place.
I’ve been trying to dig up a build thread on any forum but i know the second generation Tacoma in the video below is driven by a gentleman in a wheel chair. They talked about the build briefly of the podcast “Snail Trail 4x4”. Looks like he has a lift of sorts in the bed... not sure how helpful this is but i figured it might help?
edit: the Tacoma was built by Candor Offroad out of Lodi Ca. They would be a great resource to talk to. Not sure if you’re on Instagram but they have a ton of pictures posted of the build on there. @candoroffroad.
edit: the Tacoma was built by Candor Offroad out of Lodi Ca. They would be a great resource to talk to. Not sure if you’re on Instagram but they have a ton of pictures posted of the build on there. @candoroffroad.
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Dammit
I wanted to @ the other member in the wheelchair. Has a sweet modified blazer with a lift. What’s the name guys?
I wanted to @ the other member in the wheelchair. Has a sweet modified blazer with a lift. What’s the name guys?
