Man, you guys with your suggestions are the best! Just a min and I’ll post my wife’s phone number so you can tell her….
CK5
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91 K5 -Procrastination Build - bikini top!
- Thread starter nvrenuf
- Start date
Oh hell No !
She partly blames me for a lot of what has been spent on your truck already - I’ve seen her upset and very happy and I’m stay’n on the happy side.
That being said she is a forgiving person so if ya’ buy a DART block and head combo I’m sure you would only be sleeping in the shop for a week or so.
All you need is a couple of $2 jugs of distilled water with the concentrated coolant
I just don’t think the block and heads would be worth it without a 1/4” crank.
I’m so proud of you - that’s how you are supposed to think!
Somebody get @folkenheath on the line - 1/4” stroke with a 4.5” -ish bore is around the 540 mark of fire breath’n BBC.
Of course with that combo you’ll need an entirely different camshaft grind - one that will make good use of those DART heads.
It’s only money John - and I am such a good friend and brother to ya’ that I am will’n to help you spend it.
Well, that backfired. I was hoping to get you stirred up over the 1/4” crank I turned down. 
We need proof of this kid thing.Tap water with minerals has always been a no go. From when I was a kid 55 years ago. (man I am old) The minerals cause electrolysis and the rust starts. You could change out to an all aluminum BBC and not need to worry about it anymore.
I have a lot of scars from then.
I saw that coming so I went another way.Well, that backfired. I was hoping to get you stirred up over the 1/4” crank I turned down.
But since you brought it up all the other brothers need to know that your machinist offered to trade you a full BBC 1/4” stroke rotating assembly for your new outta the GM box LS-7 cross-drilled steel crank - as cool and great of a piece that crank is the stroker assembly giving you 496 inches would have been so much better.
I forgot that I’m still mad at you over that and am not talk’n to you…
He had to have the numbers matching muscle car crank for his truck?
What's the old saying, you can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink it?
We need two likes at the same time, angry and funny!
Heck I wouldn't even put that in a Chevelle, I'd rather have the stroker crank.
Numbers matching is for the show car guys who don't drive them like they are meant to be driven.
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It wasn’t about the numbers (I don’t care about that stuff, even on show cars), it was about having an NOS nitrided, cross drilled steel crank in my hands. The switch to a stroker crank would have escalated the entire engine build and that just wasn’t what I wanted at the time. I thought building more tame would provide more opportunity to drive it to work, ice cream, longer joy rides, etc but sadly that type of use just never panned out.
Doesn't have to, a stroker crank picks up everywhere, if everything else remains equal.
Now, if you are some displacement limited class, then RPM is your game and you want a big piston so you can have big valves for high airflow for high RPM, in which case stroke goes down with a larger bore and a limited displacement.
Or maybe if you have super high boost, you can't make the piston too short or it won't take the boost, stroke is limited by deck height.
But most else, mo cubes is mo betta!
Now, if you are some displacement limited class, then RPM is your game and you want a big piston so you can have big valves for high airflow for high RPM, in which case stroke goes down with a larger bore and a limited displacement.
Or maybe if you have super high boost, you can't make the piston too short or it won't take the boost, stroke is limited by deck height.
But most else, mo cubes is mo betta!
No replacement for displacement.
That’s what they say…but ets prove otherwise.
John, I like to pull the block drain plugs just above the oil pan rails. Those are the lowest point in the block. Also depending on the radiator, remove the side tank plug/petcock and maybe the lower hose too.
When refilling, buy a 5 gallon jug from a water treatment business of some distilled water and flush the system with that to remove most all of the tap water you used for cleaning/flushing the system.
Finally mix the distilled water 50/50 with concentrated coolant!
Ohhhhh PREACH IT !!!Doesn't have to, a stroker crank picks up everywhere, if everything else remains equal.
Now, if you are some displacement limited class, then RPM is your game and you want a big piston so you can have big valves for high airflow for high RPM, in which case stroke goes down with a larger bore and a limited displacement.
Or maybe if you have super high boost, you can't make the piston too short or it won't take the boost, stroke is limited by deck height.
But most else, mo cubes is mo betta!
Let the displacement rise and benefit everything for what John will do with it.
Now I’m all hot-n-bothered about a stroker assembly that ain’t happening…
Says the guy with a rather large 427 small block!
It can be argued there is a replacement for displacement, power adders.
However, my response to that is, I want both.
Some people also replace it with high RPM, which gets expensive, or maybe race fuel, but they can all be combined, big cubes, higher RPM, race fuel, boost, nitrous, etc. Then you end up with a promod.
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And Pro Mod racing is on another level of bank roll support with just about no concern for a budget.
The rest of us have gotta stick with many cubic inches wisely chosen for power and longevity moving as much air/fuel with in a limited RPM range finding the right combination for each application and occasion.
Power adders, exotic fuels and fuel delivery plus many RPM’s all create another level of maintenance programs that demand some serious coin - all are extremely cool but ain’t cheap by no means.
All this cool motor talk has got me missing those days work’n at the Speed Shop in the ‘90’s - good times…
The rest of us have gotta stick with many cubic inches wisely chosen for power and longevity moving as much air/fuel with in a limited RPM range finding the right combination for each application and occasion.
Power adders, exotic fuels and fuel delivery plus many RPM’s all create another level of maintenance programs that demand some serious coin - all are extremely cool but ain’t cheap by no means.
All this cool motor talk has got me missing those days work’n at the Speed Shop in the ‘90’s - good times…
Yes it gets exponentially expensive, RPM, boost, and not just the power, all the drivetrain parts to take it, and you can't skimp on the safety gear. Plus once you have all that the routine maintenance gets out of control.
Now a stroker crank on the other hand, that adds all the torques and horsey powers, with no extra maintenance. I use one pretty much every build for my own stuff.
If I am buying a crankshaft, I get the biggest one I can reliably fit in the block I have, no reason to buy one smaller.
Now a stroker crank on the other hand, that adds all the torques and horsey powers, with no extra maintenance. I use one pretty much every build for my own stuff.
If I am buying a crankshaft, I get the biggest one I can reliably fit in the block I have, no reason to buy one smaller.
AMEN to all of that !
