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91 K5 -Procrastination Build - bikini top!

Overview Gallery Discussion
nvrenuf said:
Not really. Seems like that would be a tricky deal with the steering box wanting the lumpy shape to mount.
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My thought would be to use pieces of 1/2" plate, sized as best as possible, to use as spacers. Then you don't have to move the formed section of frame, just make it flat. Of course a steering box brace would have to be custom built or modified.
Just a thought as I did this on the '68 frame that's under my '70. It never had the dimples in the frame at the box, just a factory reinforcement section. It was manual steering and I swapped to power.
But this idea may be more work than cutting the dimple section out and moving it forward.
 
John, is there a way to drill the spring pads and loose the easy inch?

Your issue and mine are similar
 
I could but then I’d have to pull the rear ZR too and I really don’t want to change the height. Waa waa I know.

I think the offset TRE’s will do it. If I use the offset stuff on the drag link to push it forward (putting the tube further under the pitman arm), do you see any geometry/ functional downfalls? Would you do both ends to be symmetrical or just the pitman arm end? It only hits on the short run by the pitman arm before the bend.
 
My concern (from looking at my issue) is also where the drag link will travel upwards. Mine looks like it has also been contacting the engine crossmember

Or just go hydro
 
I’d like to but i just don’t have the beans right now for a nice full hydro system. I’m not above selling a testicle though.
 
I had a similar issue with running the reverse high steer WFO arms with a thick 52" pack (6 leaf no overload), zero rate, and degree shim. Everything together obviously compounded the issue. Anyway, Ballistic Fab makes a 1" Dana 60 high steer spacer and that is what I used to solve the problem. Had to cheat the arm studs out a little to have enough length but still plenty left in the knuckle and a nut's worth up top.
 
Hosalabad said:
Fully hydro means no more street use.
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This ^^ is a real issue. I really don't drive it much but I do want to retain the ability to do it. Street driving is the biggest reason I never explored full hydraulic steering, legality issues aside, I know that to have reasonable road characteristics you have to spend a lot of money for things like an orbital that behaves semi normal, etc. Honestly, if I did have $2k to spend on the truck all at once I'd buy fancy axles & u-joints.
 
Around here no one would even know that the steering was anything but normal if they took a glance at it.
 
I went back and looked at my PM's from pirate, I paid $260 per outer 4340 stub shaft back in 2010... Just saying!! :whistle:
 
85 Jimmy said:
Around here no one would even know that the steering was anything but normal if they took a glance at it.
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I completely agree, especially with some of the mounting plates that have a skid covering the ram.

85 Jimmy said:
I went back and looked at my PM's from pirate, I paid $260 per outer 4340 stub shaft back in 2010... Just saying!! :whistle:
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Plus u-joints and inner axles. Just send a quote and I'll forward it to my CFO. :D
 
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