Windrock trip
CK5
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91 K5 -Procrastination Build - bikini top!
- Thread starter nvrenuf
- Start date
This.
I picked up some ORD valves Bilsteins from a buddy parting out a truck. I’m going to use Ford brackets up front and make some for the rear.
Windrock would be cool but it’ll be a while before I have any vacation time (plus a trailer overhaul).
If you’re going to cut holes into the rear tubs for towers to go through I like to use steam table tray to make an access cover to close it in. Buy them from a local restaurant supply and buy one pan and cut it in half. It allready has a mounting flange built into 3 sides and they come in all kinds of sizes.
Today was door swap day. I swore I’d never cut my original doors because they were mint but phuk it, I’m too old to keep saving them for future projects.
Of course it opened a rabbit hole of needing body weatherstripping, belt mouldings and probably 1 striker pin.
I’m keeping the tube doors but I do like the look of the regular doors being back on it.
Let the power mirror hate begin.
Of course it opened a rabbit hole of needing body weatherstripping, belt mouldings and probably 1 striker pin.
I’m keeping the tube doors but I do like the look of the regular doors being back on it.
Let the power mirror hate begin.
I want power mirriors for my build. Rock on.
If you ever decide to sell the the tube doors, keep me in mind. Assuming they dont cost a kidney to ship
If you ever decide to sell the the tube doors, keep me in mind. Assuming they dont cost a kidney to ship
I’ve still got to figure out the mirror harness and wire them up. All of the original harness they connected to was replaced with a simplified custom harness a few years ago. It should be easy, just time consuming so it’ll wait.
I’ll keep you in mind but I plan to keep the tube doors (they’ve almost doubled in price since I bought them
). In theory, I’ll swap to the tube doors if we go wheeling and leave the GM doors on for cruising.
I do have to figure out the passenger striker pin. I adjusted it for the tube doors and now it doesn’t want to come loose to readjust it. I was using a nice torx bit on it but the female opening in the pin started to twist. I don’t want to but I guess I’ll have to weld a bolt to it to get it out and then replace it.
I’ll keep you in mind but I plan to keep the tube doors (they’ve almost doubled in price since I bought them
). In theory, I’ll swap to the tube doors if we go wheeling and leave the GM doors on for cruising.I do have to figure out the passenger striker pin. I adjusted it for the tube doors and now it doesn’t want to come loose to readjust it. I was using a nice torx bit on it but the female opening in the pin started to twist. I don’t want to but I guess I’ll have to weld a bolt to it to get it out and then replace it.
The roach clip will fix it.
WTF are we talking about?I do still have it!
Looks good! What did you end up getting for shocks?
How did you setup the harness for swapping doors? I want to utilize my diy4x doors and keep the power locks and windows on my doors.I’ve still got to figure out the mirror harness and wire them up. All of the original harness they connected to was replaced with a simplified custom harness a few years ago. It should be easy, just time consuming so it’ll wait.
I’ll keep you in mind but I plan to keep the tube doors (they’ve almost doubled in price since I bought them
I do have to figure out the passenger striker pin. I adjusted it for the tube doors and now it doesn’t want to come loose to readjust it. I was using a nice torx bit on it but the female opening in the pin started to twist. I don’t want to but I guess I’ll have to weld a bolt to it to get it out and then replace it.
I fixed his charging issue with a small spring clamp, (roach clip). It has been a running joke for 3 years.
I thought maybe you guys were sharing some dubage.
No herbs here, just Dr Pepper.
I grabbed some lightly used Bilsteins from @83ChevyK5Blazer when he parted his Sub. I’ve got some Super Duty brackets for the front and I’m going to make some brackets for the rear. That’s probably my next project after I finish the doors.
I was short sighted and didn’t. I converted the windows to manual and lock actuators sucked so I just left them to operate manually. The mirrors are the only thing to figure out (4 or 5 wires, iirc).
I unplug the 2 factory connectors under the dash for each door and fish it out through the boot in the door jamb and then pull the door. I also made quick disconnects for the white ground door jam wire on the dome light so It works too...(or doesn't stay on with the tube doors on) Lisle makes electrical disconnect pliers that are perfect for doing this as it's hard to get two hands under the dash.
