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91 V1500 4WD "Clifford" Build
- Thread starter 702GS
- Start date
If it's still in the truck, the glovebox codes will tell you. If that's gone, you can take the VIN to the dealer for them to look it up. Last option is to turn the drive shaft and count the number of times it takes for the ends to turn once.
Here, looked them up for you real quick like......................
GQ1 -- AXLE REAR, STD RATIO
GT4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 -- AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GU4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 -- AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 -- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
G80 -- AXLE REAR, HD locking differential (not a limited slip, not really HD, but works ok)
GQ1 -- AXLE REAR, STD RATIO
GT4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 -- AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GU4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 -- AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 -- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
G80 -- AXLE REAR, HD locking differential (not a limited slip, not really HD, but works ok)
Plus a little info on the G80 (GM very common locking diff).............................
You have a G80 Eaten locking diff..heres how it works..
When the wheel-to-wheel speed difference is 100 RPM or more, the flyweights of the governor will fling out and one of them will contact an edge of the latching bracket. This happens because the left cam side gear and cam plate are rotating at a speed different, either slower or faster, than that of the ring gear and differential case assembly. The cam plate has teeth on its outer diameter surface in mesh with teeth on the shaft of the governor.
As the side gear rotates at a speed different than that of the differential case, the shaft of the governor rotates with enough speed to force the flyweights outward against spring tension. One of the flyweights catches its edge on the closest edge of the latching bracket, which is stationary in the differential case. This latching process triggers a chain of events.
When the governor latches, it stops rotating. A small friction clutch inside the governor allows rotation, with resistance, of the governor shaft while one flyweight is held to the differential case through the latching bracket. The purpose of the governor's latching action is to slow the rotation of the cam plate as compared to the cam side gear. This will cause the cam plate to move out of its detent position.
The cam plate normally is held in its detent position by a small wave spring and detent humps resting in matching notches of the cam side gear. At this point, the ramps of the cam plate ride up on the ramps of the cam side gear, and the cam plate compresses the left clutch pack with a self-energizing action.
As the left clutch pack is compressed, it pushes the cam plate and cam side gear slightly toward the right side of the differential case. This movement of the cam side gear pushes the thrust block which compresses the right-hand side gear clutch pack.
At this point, the force of the self-energizing clutches and the side gear separating force combine to hold the side gears to the differential case in the locking stage.
The entire locking process occurs in less than 1 second. The process works with either the left or right wheel spinning, due to the design of the governor and cam mechanism. A torque reversal of any kind will unlatch the governor, causing the cam plate to ride back down to its detent position. Cornering or deceleration during a transmission shift will cause a torque reversal of this type. The differential unit returns to its open diff function.
The self-energizing process would not occur if it were not for the action of one of the left clutch discs. This energizing disc provides the holding force of the ramping action to occur. It is the only disc which is splined to the cam plate itself. The other splined discs fit on the cam side gear.
If the rotating speed of the ring gear and differential case assembly is high enough, the latching bracket will pivot due to centrifugal force. This will move the flyweights so that no locking is permitted. During vehicle driving, this happens at approximately 32 km/h (20 mph) and continues at faster speeds.
When comparing the effectiveness of the locking differential, in terms of percent-of-grade capability to open and limited-slip units, the locking differential has nearly 3 times the potential of the limited-slip unit under the same conditions.
You have a G80 Eaten locking diff..heres how it works..
When the wheel-to-wheel speed difference is 100 RPM or more, the flyweights of the governor will fling out and one of them will contact an edge of the latching bracket. This happens because the left cam side gear and cam plate are rotating at a speed different, either slower or faster, than that of the ring gear and differential case assembly. The cam plate has teeth on its outer diameter surface in mesh with teeth on the shaft of the governor.
As the side gear rotates at a speed different than that of the differential case, the shaft of the governor rotates with enough speed to force the flyweights outward against spring tension. One of the flyweights catches its edge on the closest edge of the latching bracket, which is stationary in the differential case. This latching process triggers a chain of events.
When the governor latches, it stops rotating. A small friction clutch inside the governor allows rotation, with resistance, of the governor shaft while one flyweight is held to the differential case through the latching bracket. The purpose of the governor's latching action is to slow the rotation of the cam plate as compared to the cam side gear. This will cause the cam plate to move out of its detent position.
The cam plate normally is held in its detent position by a small wave spring and detent humps resting in matching notches of the cam side gear. At this point, the ramps of the cam plate ride up on the ramps of the cam side gear, and the cam plate compresses the left clutch pack with a self-energizing action.
As the left clutch pack is compressed, it pushes the cam plate and cam side gear slightly toward the right side of the differential case. This movement of the cam side gear pushes the thrust block which compresses the right-hand side gear clutch pack.
At this point, the force of the self-energizing clutches and the side gear separating force combine to hold the side gears to the differential case in the locking stage.
The entire locking process occurs in less than 1 second. The process works with either the left or right wheel spinning, due to the design of the governor and cam mechanism. A torque reversal of any kind will unlatch the governor, causing the cam plate to ride back down to its detent position. Cornering or deceleration during a transmission shift will cause a torque reversal of this type. The differential unit returns to its open diff function.
The self-energizing process would not occur if it were not for the action of one of the left clutch discs. This energizing disc provides the holding force of the ramping action to occur. It is the only disc which is splined to the cam plate itself. The other splined discs fit on the cam side gear.
If the rotating speed of the ring gear and differential case assembly is high enough, the latching bracket will pivot due to centrifugal force. This will move the flyweights so that no locking is permitted. During vehicle driving, this happens at approximately 32 km/h (20 mph) and continues at faster speeds.
When comparing the effectiveness of the locking differential, in terms of percent-of-grade capability to open and limited-slip units, the locking differential has nearly 3 times the potential of the limited-slip unit under the same conditions.
Clifford has been running amazing, great truck! Getting ready to do some upgrades. Hoping to get some feedback on my selections, the goal here is to have a simple install. I want to keep the truck as is right now as far as axels go, and want custom fabbin to be minimal.
I need brakes, I'd like to replace everything. I'm not sure if I need just the front rotors or rotor and hub?
Rotor only: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1626970&cc=1301803&jsn=456&jsn=456 not sure if I need such or if these will be fine: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=109222&cc=1301803&jsn=449&jsn=449
Roto Hub: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1567262&cc=1301803&jsn=453 or a cheaper option: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=390983&cc=1301803&jsn=450
Brake pads: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6095994&cc=1301803&jsn=501 or cheaper option: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=108714&cc=1301803&jsn=491
Drums: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=109884&cc=1301803&jsn=509
Brake Shoe: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=108113&cc=1301803&jsn=518
My suspension has seen better days, it needs to be replaced.
Lift Kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfy-14731k Question, how "stock" will this install be?
Shocks: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-187237/overview/make/chevrolet/model/suburban-1500 I want to remove the 2 front shocks and replace them with 1 on each side. Not sure if these are going to work with the 4" lift.
Tires are getting on the older side, want bigger but not too big.
Tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/ I wanna go with a larger tire, 33"s and still be good with my stock axels. Is 33" safe?
Paint: I am planning on getting Clifford sprayed (or rolled) "Desert Tan" but its never easy doing such things with a HOA. Trying to find a cheaper shop to apply the paint is proving difficult as well.
If I am missing anything please let me know, thats the purpose of this post. Here's a picture of the trucks main purpose, transport of my 2 Germans!
Thanks in advance.
I need brakes, I'd like to replace everything. I'm not sure if I need just the front rotors or rotor and hub?
Rotor only: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1626970&cc=1301803&jsn=456&jsn=456 not sure if I need such or if these will be fine: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=109222&cc=1301803&jsn=449&jsn=449
Roto Hub: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1567262&cc=1301803&jsn=453 or a cheaper option: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=390983&cc=1301803&jsn=450
Brake pads: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6095994&cc=1301803&jsn=501 or cheaper option: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=108714&cc=1301803&jsn=491
Drums: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=109884&cc=1301803&jsn=509
Brake Shoe: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=108113&cc=1301803&jsn=518
My suspension has seen better days, it needs to be replaced.
Lift Kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfy-14731k Question, how "stock" will this install be?
Shocks: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-187237/overview/make/chevrolet/model/suburban-1500 I want to remove the 2 front shocks and replace them with 1 on each side. Not sure if these are going to work with the 4" lift.
Tires are getting on the older side, want bigger but not too big.
Tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/ I wanna go with a larger tire, 33"s and still be good with my stock axels. Is 33" safe?
Paint: I am planning on getting Clifford sprayed (or rolled) "Desert Tan" but its never easy doing such things with a HOA. Trying to find a cheaper shop to apply the paint is proving difficult as well.
If I am missing anything please let me know, thats the purpose of this post. Here's a picture of the trucks main purpose, transport of my 2 Germans!
Thanks in advance.
Pretty dogs!
Thanks
Sorry about the confusion, by stock I meant mounting locations.
It's all just remove old, bolt on new. It helps to have a buddy though. You might have to get this if you want to retain your sway bar.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm
You most likely will really have to beat on the old steering arm to get it off, there is a technique on where to pound on it, and it really works. And a BFH.
As for the brakes, all you really need is a rotor, not the hub an rotor.
And 33's would be good for tire size, I think you'll be happy with that. I have 35's and really need to regear, which I'm working on.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm
You most likely will really have to beat on the old steering arm to get it off, there is a technique on where to pound on it, and it really works. And a BFH.
As for the brakes, all you really need is a rotor, not the hub an rotor.
And 33's would be good for tire size, I think you'll be happy with that. I have 35's and really need to regear, which I'm working on.
Seems like you have a good list. I have a shackle flip on my truck, however, and my shocks are way longer than that (about four inches of lift). I actually wound up using stock Super Duty shocks in the Bilstein flavor.
Thanks, credit must be given to @muddysub he definitely pointed me in the right direction.
What does the shackle flip do? I've never fully understood the purpose.
It gives 4" of lift while keeping the stock rear spring, and not having to use blocks.
It basically turns the rear shackle hanger upside down, so the shackle points down instead of up.
The advantage is 4" of lift with stock ride (you keep the same springs)
So is there any advantage or disadvantage to going the route I'm planning? It appears to me that I'll be getting complete leaf springs for the rear, yeah?
You won't have to recenter the rear axle, but it will ride rougher, possibly.
Martin
Martin
Thanks Martin,
So do you recommend shackle flip and new rear springs (stock ride height) over the method I have picked currently?
I personally had some Rough country springs on mine, and the ride was awful (although I am sure the crappy shocks didn't help). I went to a shackle flip, and it got a lot better. Adding the bilsteins in recently, the truck drives the best it ever has since I've owned it.
What do you recommend in place of my selection?
If you are talking about the lift in your list up above, you have Tuff Country, which are good. He was talking about a Rough Country lift, which are notoriously stiff.
