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96 Donzi Classic 22

Had an impeller blow up on the ramp after struggling to get it running on the hose. Pulled pump, back flushed hoses, and put the original impeller in for the afternoon. Did fine after that.

Neutral Lock works great.

Exhaust switch is pneumatic, little compressor builds pressure and holds to keep in loud setting. The blowoff valve, certified in 94, was leaking down. Pulled it apart, lubed up the seals, and all is well. 8457E1A6-EEB8-4B33-8CBC-DBA956466C97.jpegE21160C6-B4A1-479F-ABAF-11443F26DBB4.jpeg

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54C298D2-7059-4858-8EE2-D0F1F8F51295.jpeg

Good last day on the water. Looks like snow before next weekend, so probably servicing before next weekend.
 
Serviced and winterized

Really not that difficult.

F the drive muffs. I made an adapter to feed directly into the back of the water pump. Way easier for both hose water and coolant.

Missed the memo that the dipstick is also an extraction tube. Tried to cram the extractor straw In the tube, which barely worked. Then attached to the tube after some research. Worked really well. Was going to add a drain plug hose, but no need after figuring this out.

Changed oil, filter, fuel filter, fogged cylinders, filled with coolant, stabilized the fuel, and changed drive fluid.

Will remove drive and check gimbal and the like In the spring. Also planning for plugs, wires, belts, cap/rotor, fuel line replacement in the spring.

Need bigger garage.


827B414B-DB51-4D45-AD20-B97E53B318C3.jpeg
 
what are you doing for storage? wrapping it and leaving it out? We used a guy in Reno last year and the boat came back looking like complete shit. Brought it back down to Rocklin for indoor winter storage.
 
skunked said:
what are you doing for storage? wrapping it and leaving it out? We used a guy in Reno last year and the boat came back looking like complete shit. Brought it back down to Rocklin for indoor winter storage.
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Managed to find a buddy with space next to his boat in the back of a hanger. Going to rent some space from him. Dropping off tmr night, just ahead of storms hopefully
 
not quite as good as a whip hose, but get's more out than ya think... fug the small, hard tube down the dipstick, that chit takes forever.. :haha: even when the oil is mega thin... most marine mills are set up with full-depth tubes.. the only time i use those skinny tubes is occasionally on a trans or something..


oh, btw, not sure I mentioned one of the main reasons that we like to see the drives pulled, stored and serviced is, for a bellows check.. I know this yr you didn't have time and such... just wanted you to know that's one of reasons we push it.. if the bellows failed at some point during the season from the drive being trimmed up and down, etc, and you find water laying inside the bellows, you will know before the REAL damage happens...

a bellows fails, a pain to install, but that's it.. you let that drive sit all winter with water in the bellows? now it's that, plus joints, PLUS the upper input shaft in the drive... maybe not immediately, but within a year or so from the rust creep..... not cheap, plus you gotta redo the upper, rolling torque, yada..


oh, the other good thing to do is to at least pull the lower oil plug for a mili sec to let out a teaspoon or so, than screw it back in.. if the drive developed a bad seal during the season, the water will come out first, or a bit of shake... if good, and just dirty, service at your leisure...
 
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ryoken said:
not quite as good as a whip hose, but get's more out than ya think... fug the small, hard tube down the dipstick, that chit takes forever.. :haha: even when the oil is mega thin... most marine mills are set up with full-depth tubes.. the only time i use those skinny tubes is occasionally on a trans or something..


oh, btw, not sure I mentioned one of the main reasons that we like to see the drives pulled, stored and serviced is, for a bellows check.. I know this yr you didn't have time and such... just wanted you to know that's one of reasons we push it.. if the bellows failed at some point during the season from the drive being trimmed up and down, etc, and you find water laying inside the bellows, you will know before the REAL damage happens...

a bellows fails, a pain to install, but that's it.. you let that drive sit all winter with water in the bellows? now it's that, plus joints, PLUS the upper input shaft in the drive... maybe not immediately, but within a year or so from the rust creep..... not cheap, plus you gotta redo the upper, rolling torque, yada..


oh, the other good thing to do is to at least pull the lower oil plug for a mili sec to let out a teaspoon or so, than screw it back in.. if the drive developed a bad seal during the season, the water will come out first, or a bit of shake... if good, and just dirty, service at your leisure...
Click to expand...


Copy. I'll be pulling it in the spring.

I DID change the drive lube. And, the boat is ending up in a heated hanger all winter, so that should help prevent issues too.

Will be reading some instructions on drive removal this winter.

In terms of part numbers, are the blue block plugs the same number as the manifold drain plug numbers?

I need to replace both.
 
Is there a good kit from mercruiser for bellows, gimbal bearing, etc for when I pull it apart?

And when running on the Trailer, and switched to prop exhaust, should all exhaust water be coming out of the prop, or should some be coming out of the upper drive housing?
 
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