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96 Donzi Classic 22

Weird to live and breath This Boat, then put it away and forget about it.

Holidays have stopped parts spending too.

Guess I get to rewatch my videos for a few more months....
 
lol. May be helping a friend track down a boat in the off season, so that will help me get my fix.

I was doing this ordering parts, but this time of the year has gotten expensive, so parts orders have to slow.

Luckily, the only major purchases left are stereo parts and the sounddown.

Paul, any thoughts on insulating the inside of the engine hatch?

I like this thing loud, but could do without hearing the accessories and belt whine while running.

There is proper clearance above the top of the motor, its just if i think it's worth doing.

Also, what's your thoughts on the silly flexible blige air ducts? This boat has 4 scoops, 2 facing forward, 2 back. blower is plumbed to one, others have rotted away.

Is it worth purchasing the material ($50) to replace the other 3? If so, how do i route them? Scoop anchored down to blow air in low, or let air come in high unrestricted, and plumb the outgoing air one from a low point?


Thanks!
 
Not sure why you put it away??? Lol we were out on the water last week! I’m sure that if you jumped in the water you would have to have your speedo hemmed up a little though.
 
F.S.F.W said:
Not sure why you put it away??? Lol we were out on the water last week! I’m sure that if you jumped in the water you would have to have your speedo hemmed up a little though.
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Haha. Hard freeze in my area. My house hasn't been above freezing in 2 weeks, regular single temps at night. I already winterized this damn thing 3-4 times this season, i'm all done.

Snow on the driveway, no more boating.
 
sure, you can sounddown the hatch.. just make sure to use some foil tape to enclose your ends, make sure you have a pre-checked fastener/fender washer attachment set up for proper depth, etc.. than do a real proper, wetbed contact cement attachment.. followed up by your mechanical fastening.. i usually try to do them in 15" to 18" intervals...


as for the blower hose... does it actually have a blower? or just hose hooked up? a single is fine..

what's a freaking blower.. :dunno: ;) started a million boats over the yr's and not once have i ever run a blower... :whistle: :haha:
 
Can't mechanically attached the insulation, no fiberglass depth. Needs to be fully adhesive, or stick pin type install.

I do have one blower, and one exhaust hose for it.

Are hoses on the other scoops worth anything? Either for air flow or acoustics?
 
dhcomp said:
Haha. Hard freeze in my area. My house hasn't been above freezing in 2 weeks, regular single temps at night. I already winterized this damn thing 3-4 times this season, i'm all done.

Snow on the driveway, no more boating.
Click to expand...
It snowed the night before we took this one out. I think the temp was 23 but I can’t remember for sure? It was in the 20s anyway. We were worried about backing down the boat ramp because it had a couple inches of snow on it. But yeah I am over the winterizing thing too... we start late August and usually get done the first week in November. Then it takes all winter for the blood to drain back out of my head. Ok hijack over... carry on!
 
dhcomp said:
Can't mechanically attached the insulation, no fiberglass depth. Needs to be fully adhesive, or stick pin type install.

I do have one blower, and one exhaust hose for it.

Are hoses on the other scoops worth anything? Either for air flow or acoustics?
Click to expand...



stick pin combined with a good cement job is fine.. roloc the glass with 24.. and wetbed them to the underside with thickened epoxy or resin...

the other hoses in a boat like that are often just hanging shorties down the side of the hull.. blower one should run into bilge.. the others help keep birds out. ;)
 
No exciting updates. But our lack of snow has had my mind wandering.

Continuing to order parts.

Wanted to buy battery cables, but its too much $$ to buy without real lengths. Need to measure

Ordered a dual battery switch, skipped perko and went with the Blue Sea one this time.

Also ordered bunk carpet. Current bunks are broken, and need to be entirely replaced, plus all wood step pads and fender liners.

Rebuilding bunks will be a good winter task. Wish the long ones were 12', instead of 12'4".....

Now just need time to go to home depot.
 
Paul,

Thoughts on a marine blue seas circuit breaker to protect my 4 gauge amp feed, vs some car audio one? The car audio parts aren’t great, and it will be in the engine compartment. Like the idea of a quality resettable breaker rather than risk not having the right fuse.

Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Surface Mount 80A Circuit Breaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BI5466/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uo8uAbNA4PP65
 
dhcomp said:
Paul,

Thoughts on a marine blue seas circuit breaker to protect my 4 gauge amp feed, vs some car audio one? The car audio parts aren’t great, and it will be in the engine compartment. Like the idea of a quality resettable breaker rather than risk not having the right fuse.

Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Surface Mount 80A Circuit Breaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BI5466/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uo8uAbNA4PP65
Click to expand...


those are what i run in the K5, will in Mutt's system, and are the staple of the industry for most boats... i wouldn't run anything for a car, in a boat...
 
Had some time to watch drive removal videos. Can't wait to dig into mine.

Hoping for just the torn exhaust bellow. Probably going to be a good idea to do the full bellows replacement if one went though.

http://www.sterndrives.com/replace_bravo_bellows.html

This is the list of specialty tools they recommend on the link above.

Tools Required to Replace Bravo I, II and III Bellows
The Bravo uses an aluminum sleeve to retain the u-joint bellows in place.
You will need the Sleeve Removal Tool and the Sleeve Installation Tool.
You will also need the Hinge Pin Tool and Bellows Expension Tool if you are going to
install exhaust bellows.
In addition, the Bravo requires an Tapered Insert Tool for removing and installing the
plastic water hose tapered insert. This tapered insert locks the water hose in place on either end.
Hinge Pin Tool
Sleeve Removal Tool
Sleeve Installation Tool
Driver Rod
Driver Head
Bellows Expansion Tool
Tapered Insert Tool

Which do you agree with, and which should i do without? I don't hesitate to buy speciality tools as needed, but also no reason to waste money if you think there is a better way.

Thanks!
 
ryoken said:
just saw this. i'll try to get to it tonight.....
Click to expand...

Know you are doing a ton of wrenching. I’m just planning ahead, an answer before May is my only ask. No hurry at all. Haha
 
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dhcomp said:
Know you are doing a ton of wrenching. I’m just planning ahead, an answer before May is my only ask. No hurry at all. Haha
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i got 1/2 a novel on the tongue and no time to type it... i should get to it in the next day or so... some of that you don't need, but there is a lot more to this... ;)
 
Piling on the questions.
What do you prefer for pinching off hoses as needed? I always try to avoid doing this, but there seems to be a time and a place where it’s useful. I cringe at using vice grips, and want the right tools.

Is there a specific style you like, or think causes the least damage to hoses?

Specifically thinking the drive lube hose for drive removal.

Thanks!
 
you don't have to... it's a quick disconnect style between the drive and bellhousing.. once you pull the drive, the oil stops coming out...

to do the bellows you really don't want to disconnect that if you can.. it's on the side with the shift cable (which you definitely don't want to mess with if it's shifting correctly...... you slide the bellhousing out and roll it over to the right... you can actually do both bellow without disconnecting the water hose (on the left) too... but that isn't as big a deal as the other side.. as long as you have that socket tool you listed...

you shouldn't be worried about oil coming out of that hose.. it's only a pint or so up to your remote bottle.. what you DO want to be worried about is breaking the oil fitting that the short hose section, between the bellhousing and transom assembly.. it's what feeds the oil thru the transom.. its SUPER easy to break.. trust me, I've broken a couple over the yrs.. putting a new one in with the engine in sucks, big time..

the water tube wont break or get f*cked up when your doing bellows.. it's soft like a radiator hose, so flexable... plus how it attaches to the transon platewon't break (tho they clog and actually get a retro-fit now when you replace one, but your fresh, shouldn't be a worry)... BUT that oil feed on the other side, will usually be a very stiff, brittle piece of hose... the fitting is a hard plastic.. you wiggle that hose the wrong way, and it WILL snap that fitting...

you can very carefully disconnect it from the bellhousing barb in the back if your really having troubling getting the space to get the bellows in... just leaving the shift cable holding the bellhousing in.. well that and the ground strap, which if you can disconnect the left one (torx can be corroded) with the water tube and "roll" the bellhousing to the right... but it can be risky, doesn't usually come off the barb easy.. but at that point, i generally just let the oil drain into a bucket.. crimping that hose just risks breaking the fitting more...


you don't need the pin tool, it's just a 9/16 allen socket.. torque to 90lbs, with locktight...


sorry i didn't get back to this.. i will... :)
 
oh, one critical thing with bellows is that once disassembled, the transom plate flange that the bellows clamps to, must be cleaned thoroughly with thinner... than you need to put a bead of bellows adhesive (contact cement ;)) all the way around, than install the bellows.. metal band has to be at the top, with the flat sides of the bellows left/right... i can help you more with that stuff when your ready to go...
 
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