96 s10 blazer, getting a 5.3L

[ssyork]

So I bought the plate from D&D a year or so ago. Then acquired the ford 205. Then bought the long input shaft from a chevy 205. Then torn the 205 apart and put the long input into it and twin sticked it. New seals, cleaned up and so forth too. I also acquired a 241 with the 27 spline input from the same year as mine so I could use it to get the doubler together without tearing my truck down, then just change the inputs. Well I cracked the case on the 241 in my truck, so out it came for a front case half swap. So the cracked case is now the one being used for mock up. Then I dropped off the whole thing to get the spacer made so that both shift rails will still pullout the front, in December. I finally picked it up today and here is what it looked like. It will be going in next weekend. But was excited to get it back so had to start the thread.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Didn't this require cutting off and plating a portion of the 241 case?

 

[BoondocK5]

Didn't this require cutting off and plating a portion of the 241 case?

Yep!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=757049

 

[ssyork]

Didn't this require cutting off and plating a portion of the 241 case?

Yes I did. Had to cut about a 1/3 off of the front case half. Then weld in 1" bar stock. I still have to tig it in. But that will only take a half hour or so. I will post some pics when I do.

 

[BoondocK5]

I'd be really interested in this build. Could you be persuaded to part with the prints of the adapter you had made?

 

[ssyork]

If I had a drawing I would give it up, but I don't. The machine shop that made it told me they haven't finished one either. A few people inquired about it when he was making mine. He said he could knock another one out, but it's not his main thing so it takes back burner when the oil fields/mines call. I can take some measurements for you if you want. Just let me know which ones you want. It will be getting installed this weekend though, so let me know quick. I will post some other pics today too. still have to download.

 

[royjones]

heres a link to 1 tons build. Last time i seen him he says it still works good

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247518&highlight=241+doubler

 

[ssyork]

Here is what the spacer ring looks like. The ridge centers the adapter plate. The one hole is egg shaped because he thought they where all evenly placed, but they aren't. Wasn't worth junking a piece of $150 billet over though. With the two sets of small holes it allows me to clock the 241 every 5 degrees and not use a clocking ring. So its only a two piece design instead of 3. Plate and spacer, instead of plate, spacer and clock ring. Any body need a clocking ring? Also if you look you can see the slug he made because the jack shaft slops back and forth due to using the long input. He left .50 space for heat expansion.Here is the 241 front flanges I had him cut down to fit front and rear on the 205 too.

 

[ssyork]

Here is where I had to sand down the plate and the pieces I'm welding to the 241 case to clear the shifter and the front drive flange. I could have clocked it different and cleared, but this is where I want them to sit. Also you can see where I ended up grinding into one of the bolts going into the pieces being welded on. So I added another bolt, the silver one. The four original holes where already drilled from D&D.

 

[ssyork]

Here is the case half cut down. The four holes marked with x's on the back side are the 4 that I drilled the threads out of. The plate came with these 4 tapped, so when I was putting the plate together it would push the plate out when the threads meet up. Also it makes the bolts way easier to get in from the front then in between the cases. So I think this is what D&D had in mind, but with no directions included I'm not sure

 

[ssyork]

Got the case welded up last night and a good amount of right stuff on the inside to ensure no leaks. Don't beat me up to bad over the welding, I don't get as much practice with my tig as I would like.

 

[ssyork]

I got the whole thing together and ready to install. Didn't get it installed because the guy that's coming up to help out parts didn't show up so we had to put it off for another week or two. But here is a pic of it together and with the brackets welded onto the shift rails with the heims in them. Then the last pic is of the shifters in the cab. Its starting to get snug in there but should work. I'm going to redo the main shifter too. It's made out of 1 5/8" and is pretty heavy so it doesn't like to stay tight. So I'm going to use something smaller. You can see the 3/16" plate bolted on the top/side where I'm going to mount it also. I also replaced the PTO cover with 3/16" plate to weld tube to. Also you can see where I drilled out the front of the 241 case and bolted the shift rail in. The D&D plate has a hole in it to do this but because of how I put mine together I couldn't hold the rod and put the screw in. So I drilled out the front and just ran a bolt into his hole to keep it from leaking. While I'm waiting for other guys parts to show up I figured I would get my rear disc put on so I can get the cutting brakes hooked up.

 

[ssyork]

I got the rear disc mounted up and the rear truss welded up. Just need to put some drain holes in the edges before I weld it on. All while waiting on a hand from Mnorby to get the doubler hanging in the air! Just so I can go slower!

 

[ssyork]

Here's the truss from Shaffer's offroad. I'm not linking it right now but wanted to truss it. I am going to fit an anti wrap bar on since it is sitting on the floor mocking me right now. It will also get welded to the third member tonight across the top on the back.

 

[ssyork]

So here is the initial install pic. It will be coming back out to get cleaned up and painted. We used 2" 1/4 wall for the rear cross member and 1 3/4" for the front. The cross member is bolted to the frame on the drivers side then to a piece of 2" on the pass side. That way it drops down and comes out of the bushings for removal.

 

[ssyork]

few more

 

[BoondocK5]

Want this back towards the top...

 

[ssyork]

Here is the new D60 1410 yoke, with Great Lake offroad u-joint girdles going onto the front. That is the old 1330 u-bolt sitting next to it for comparison. Anybody need a 1330 yoke? Got the rest of my driveline parts ordered up from High Angle yesterday. Also all new stainless brake lines to re-do my stretched out front ones and with the cutting brakes ordered.

 

[ssyork]

So I finally got the tranny cross member done. Also got the t-case one all cleaned up and painted and then reinstalled. The cross members are 2" 1/4 wall except for the the one between the t-cases, it is only 1 3/4" and I forget what wall thickness. The t-case one has 3 1/2" bolts that go into another piece of 2" on the pass side. Then 3 1/2" button head bolts that go up thru the frame on the drivers side. Then the 2 9/16" bolts going thru the bushings from DIY4x onto the 205. The 2 supports going from the t-case member to the tranny member are also 2", they are welded on the t-case side then bolted with 2 1/2"bolts each on the tranny side. So once are the bolts are out the t-case part swings down toward the drivers side to come out. Then the tranny one will slide enough to come out. Looks good to me, hope it holds up. I think it will but only time will tell. I will be putting some kind of skid plate on it too. Haven't decided if I want the skid plate to cover the bottom of the exhaust too. Was thinking it might keep a lot of heat in. Any thoughts? The muffler is a stainless Flowmaster Delta flow series 40, it tucked up there nice and thats where the factory heat shield is on the underside of the floor.

 

[BoondocK5]

These pics make that look like a drivers side drop 205, did I miss something?