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96 s10 blazer, getting a 5.3L

Got some more welding done last night. I ordered up some of the weld washers from Ruff stuff, those guys are always great to deal with. I also got one lower bracket into place, just need to tie the new frame, old frame and bracket together now.
I sold my warn xd9000i because I needed a lower profile winch, which I received on Monday. It's a smittybilt xrc10. Have read the solenoids leak water, and after looking at the gasket I can see why.:rolleyes: So I filled in the channel with rtv and covered the connectors where they come out. Also covered them with liquid electrical tape. Hopefully this helps. They did just release the X2O (water proof version) but it is $649 where I paid $399.
Here is the screen shot from using the 4 link calculator also. I think what should be the final numbers are looking pretty good. Any suggestions are always welcome though.

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got some cross members in. Also got the one side of the frame tied into the old frame and link bracket, just need to get it cleaned up a little and will get a pick.I can see why people start with a whole new frame. Wish I would have done that when I put the blazer body on. This just isn't going to turn out as clean as i would like. Little rock rash and dirt and it won't matter.

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Hey Scott I think I would try to get the antisquat numbers up a bit. I do understand though a front suspension is not always possible to do this. But if it were mine I would try to get them up to the 70% range
 
The travel or static anti squat? Here is the new screen shot. I was off by an inch on the link separation on the upper links at the frame and by 3/4" at the axle.Didn't change anything though.

final.jpg
 
Can you move your lower link on the axle end down a tad.

Probably can't move the upper link at the frame end can you
 
After reading my post I figured out it is the static anti squat, since the travel will change with the amount of travel. :doah: Anyways i can move the lower link down on the axle a bit and also can probably pick up 1/2" upwards at the frame. I was just trying to keep them as parallel as possible. What exactly does the anti squat do in the front anyways?

edit. After checking numbers I can get it to 60% pretty easy. Will have to take some measurements tonight.
 
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What bolt hole in your upper chassis mount are you measuring at? Run numbers for other holes and see what range you are in.
 
running in the middle hole right now. Have 2 more up and 2 more down. if i move the frame side down, so it is lower than the axle it helps. I can get the number into the 70% range.
 
The most basic description I can come up with is basically if you have super low AS under braking and downhill your nose will dive. Under acceleration and up hill it will go up.

This is not always true because the rear acts on the front too. But your 39% number was pretty low. The 70% is alot better.

Everyone has different preferences on these numbers too. This is what seems to work the best from what I have built.

Other numbers are kind of hard to mess with because of the fact its a front suspension. Most of the other number look pretty good though
 
Thanks. That makes since. I will be able to use the front winch as a suck down too. We don't want it act funny climbing though, that would just make the big hot tub on Hells even worse. Or take even attempting the fall on upper helldorado out of question! Can't have that now can we:D
 
Thanks. That makes since. I will be able to use the front winch as a suck down too. We don't want it act funny climbing though, that would just make the big hot tub on Hells even worse. Or take even attempting the fall on upper helldorado out of question! Can't have that now can we:D

Absorutery not:haha::haha:

Wait that would be amusing for me. Oh so conflicted:whistle:
 
Balzinzuk, or anybody with knowledge for that matter, how does 76% anit squat sound, but with a -3 roll axis angle? Would it really matter going from 76% down to 72%. That way my lower links on the axle would not hang below the axle tube at all. Thanks for the help.
 
Sounds good, front suspension are hard to get perfect unless using your own chassis.

You would never know the difference between 72% and 76%

What did your roll center height end up being?
 
Roll center is 22 in. What range is that supposed to be in? How does the roll axis angle sound at -3.
 
roll center is another one of those things that its hard to work with a sometimes. A higher roll center will resist body roll better but you don't want it too high. A lower roll center will allow the body to move around more relative to suspension movement.


22" is fine. I tend to shoot for at least half the COG, so you are pretty close there.

I try to get the roll axis angle to zero but sometimes its not possible. -3 is not much, you won't notice it much with your rig

On something that is street driven I try to get it as low as reasonably possible
 
Sounds like all is looking pretty good then. After using the measuring stick over the weekend I should be really close to these numbers. Within 1/2" all the way around. Thanks for the help, will get u a cold one next time we meet
 
I got both of the new frame rails plated in in the last couple days. Do they look as good as I would like, no. Are they functional, yes. Should I have just built my own frame when I did the blazer body swap, yes. It is too late now though. If this frame starts to fail I will be ditching the whole frame and doing a complete frame instead of patching this one back together. But here we are. There are six 3/16" gussets on each rail where it goes into the old frame. The old drivers side rail is twisted in also and there is nothing to do about it now, so that didn't help.
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