I know, the blazer quarter panels are nice and straight. I don't know what happened with the S-10...
CK5
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97 King Cab DS-Ton build - Rock Jock 60 and shaved 14
- Thread starter r3dd0g
- Start date
Bonus BB13 photo 
Rad build
Any idea what the truck weighs?
Any idea what the truck weighs?
This thing is awesome. What's the wheelbase?
126" wheelbase, I'm not sure on the weight. I'd guess around 5K but that's just a guess.
Now this is a bad a$$ thread! I love what you have done. Can't wait to see what else you do. Do you plan on a cage of any kind?
There isn't enough room inside the cab for a cage, 2 people and 2 dogs. I don't plan on doing anything too extreme with this rig so I'm hoping the roll bar I made is enough if something bad happens.
Looks great, thanks for putting a thread together. How you liking the magnum box? What size tires you on?
I'd like to do a 4 door s10 or even a 4 dr taco similar to this. Something we can drive to trails.
I'd like to do a 4 door s10 or even a 4 dr taco similar to this. Something we can drive to trails.
All I've been able to do with the Magnum Box so far is shift it and manually spin the input while it was on the workbench. It's bolted into the truck now, but I don't have driveshafts yet so my only opinion is that it looks pretty 
. The "Fat Shaft" that you replace the 205 input with is very impressive, you definitely don't have to worry about driving around with the Magnum in low and the 205 in high.
The truck is on 35" Goodyear MT/R Kevlar tires. I wanted to do a crew cab too, but they are $$$. I only paid $900 for this one, I bet a crew cab in the same condition (blown engine) would be $4-5K. You also end up with a tiny bed, but the wheelbase would be the same. Single cab long bed, king cab and crew cab all have the same wheelbase.
. The "Fat Shaft" that you replace the 205 input with is very impressive, you definitely don't have to worry about driving around with the Magnum in low and the 205 in high.
The truck is on 35" Goodyear MT/R Kevlar tires. I wanted to do a crew cab too, but they are $$$. I only paid $900 for this one, I bet a crew cab in the same condition (blown engine) would be $4-5K. You also end up with a tiny bed, but the wheelbase would be the same. Single cab long bed, king cab and crew cab all have the same wheelbase.
It sure does look purdy. That is a bigger input than my little stocker 241 one. Did you make some noises playing with it on the bench too? [emoji3]
With 2 kids and a dog the 4 door is a must. They do seem to get big $$ for them and the 4 door Tacoma too, even beat up or not running. Throw my drive train into one and be cruising!
With 2 kids and a dog the 4 door is a must. They do seem to get big $$ for them and the 4 door Tacoma too, even beat up or not running. Throw my drive train into one and be cruising!
While I had the rear axle out to install the ARB, I decided to throw in some lift springs to get rid of the saggy ass. 3.5" Pro-comp springs replaced the stock 63's.
When I pulled the diff cover, there was quite a bit of metal on the magnet. I had a new set of gears sitting in my shed so I decided I should put those in while I had it apart. The old Detroit on the left, new ARB on the right.
Then I ran the air line and electrical for the ARB and put everything back together. Once I get a driveshaft in I'll see if I need to re-shim the axle and modify the anti-wrap bar to get the proper driveshaft angles. Until then I'm leaving it off. The truck sits fairly level now, we'll have to see if it settles much, if it does I'll either put the overloads back in or my zero rates.
When I pulled the diff cover, there was quite a bit of metal on the magnet. I had a new set of gears sitting in my shed so I decided I should put those in while I had it apart. The old Detroit on the left, new ARB on the right.
Then I ran the air line and electrical for the ARB and put everything back together. Once I get a driveshaft in I'll see if I need to re-shim the axle and modify the anti-wrap bar to get the proper driveshaft angles. Until then I'm leaving it off. The truck sits fairly level now, we'll have to see if it settles much, if it does I'll either put the overloads back in or my zero rates.
Great build!
Why do you hate the detroit? And what are you doing with it
Why do you hate the detroit? And what are you doing with it
This truck gets a lot of street time, I even drive it to work a few times a month. The Detroit has several annoying tenancies that make me hate it.
-1/8 turn of slop in the driveshaft (part of the design of how it works).
-slides a tire when making a turn from a stop, regardless of how easy you are on the throttle.
-Axle unloads at random times when cruising down the highway, shakes the whole truck and makes you swerve around in your lane.
-Offroad axle unloading while on an obstacle sounds like you snapped an axle shaft and scares the heck out of you every time it does.
I'll never do a mechanical locker again. If it's a dedicated trail rig I'd do a spool or weld the diff, if it's a streetable rig it's got to be a selectable locker.
As far as to what I'm doing with the Detroit...
Someone else had first dibs, but I'm not sure it's worth anything. This 12 bolt and Detroit were in my '72 Blazer before they were in the S-10. I had some bolts back out of the ring gear in the Blazer and banged around through the gears (common problem from what I've heard). I replaced the ring an pinion and drilled the bolts for lockwire.
This worked until I pulled the axle out from under the Blazer 7 years ago. I put it under the S-10 and drove it for a few months before I heard the familiar sound of bolts floating around in my axle. I ordered new gears and a master install kit and pulled it apart. Much to my surprise, none of the bolts had come out, however that didn't change the fact that there were still bolts and parts of bolts floating around in the axle...
Somehow last time this happened (when it was under the blazer) I didn't get all of the missing bolts out...
The gears actually looked fine, so I just installed new bearings (the bolts were actually blocking flow to the pinion bearings so those were shot).
Fast forward to me pulling the axle apart last weekend. There was a lot of metal on the magnet so I opted to toss the gears in that I had sitting in my shed. I wanted to re-use my drilled bolts since that part of the process was a pain in the butt. 3 of the bolts broke off when I attempted to torque them into the new ring gear and carrier, well below the 60ft-lb torque spec (2 of them sheered at less than 10 ft-lbs) which means that something caused them to crack while they were installed (some of the bolts were loose, but held in place with the lockwire).
That tells me that the ring gear, carrier or both are damaged and no longer true.
If someone wants to give me $20 for my trouble and cover shipping they can have it, but 79HeavyChevy gets first dibs.
I had no indication of any problems prior to removing the diff cover and I've probably put 7000 miles on the Detroit since I had it out last year.
-1/8 turn of slop in the driveshaft (part of the design of how it works).
-slides a tire when making a turn from a stop, regardless of how easy you are on the throttle.
-Axle unloads at random times when cruising down the highway, shakes the whole truck and makes you swerve around in your lane.
-Offroad axle unloading while on an obstacle sounds like you snapped an axle shaft and scares the heck out of you every time it does.
I'll never do a mechanical locker again. If it's a dedicated trail rig I'd do a spool or weld the diff, if it's a streetable rig it's got to be a selectable locker.
As far as to what I'm doing with the Detroit...
Someone else had first dibs, but I'm not sure it's worth anything. This 12 bolt and Detroit were in my '72 Blazer before they were in the S-10. I had some bolts back out of the ring gear in the Blazer and banged around through the gears (common problem from what I've heard). I replaced the ring an pinion and drilled the bolts for lockwire.
This worked until I pulled the axle out from under the Blazer 7 years ago. I put it under the S-10 and drove it for a few months before I heard the familiar sound of bolts floating around in my axle. I ordered new gears and a master install kit and pulled it apart. Much to my surprise, none of the bolts had come out, however that didn't change the fact that there were still bolts and parts of bolts floating around in the axle...
Somehow last time this happened (when it was under the blazer) I didn't get all of the missing bolts out...
The gears actually looked fine, so I just installed new bearings (the bolts were actually blocking flow to the pinion bearings so those were shot).
Fast forward to me pulling the axle apart last weekend. There was a lot of metal on the magnet so I opted to toss the gears in that I had sitting in my shed. I wanted to re-use my drilled bolts since that part of the process was a pain in the butt. 3 of the bolts broke off when I attempted to torque them into the new ring gear and carrier, well below the 60ft-lb torque spec (2 of them sheered at less than 10 ft-lbs) which means that something caused them to crack while they were installed (some of the bolts were loose, but held in place with the lockwire).
That tells me that the ring gear, carrier or both are damaged and no longer true.
If someone wants to give me $20 for my trouble and cover shipping they can have it, but 79HeavyChevy gets first dibs.
I had no indication of any problems prior to removing the diff cover and I've probably put 7000 miles on the Detroit since I had it out last year.
Gotcha, I was just curious, I just put one in my blazer and I absolutely love it, and its quiet, no clunks, doesn't do any of those weird things you mentioned. It just works 
. But now im worried I should check my ring gear bolts.
If he doesn't buy it id buy it.
Continue on with the build, great work.
. But now im worried I should check my ring gear bolts. If he doesn't buy it id buy it.
Continue on with the build, great work.
79HeavyChevy
1/2 ton status
Shoot me a pm with a PayPal and I'll send you some money. What gear ratio was in it?
Thanks,
Adam
Thanks,
Adam
4.56:1
The 12 bolt has 3 carriers from the factory, but aftermarket ones only come in type 1 and 2. The split is 3.73:1.
The 12 bolt has 3 carriers from the factory, but aftermarket ones only come in type 1 and 2. The split is 3.73:1.
79HeavyChevy
1/2 ton status
If your gonna put that other set in there what you want for them both?
For the old 4.56:1 gears? Just pay the additional shipping plus the original $20 for some beer
The new gears and ARB carrier were installed last weekend.
79HeavyChevy
1/2 ton status
For the old 4.56:1 gears? Just pay the additional shipping plus the original $20 for some beer
Shipping plus $20 for beer, sounds like a plan to me.
