Sounds good when I get home tonight I'll post them. I'm kind of curious how mine calculates.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
97 King Cab DS-Ton build - Rock Jock 60 and shaved 14
- Thread starter r3dd0g
- Start date
Here are my links, I thought I had more but I can't seem to find them. Not sure how much this will help but maybe for someone else they will do good.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...en-front-suspension-geometry.html#post6390107
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/168577-link-suspensions-dummies.html
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/4_link_tech.htm
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/4929623-post21.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...en-front-suspension-geometry.html#post6390107
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/168577-link-suspensions-dummies.html
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/4_link_tech.htm
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/4929623-post21.html
Thanks!
Either way they are a great read and it doesn't hurt to further educate yourself.
I never posted pics of the modification I did on the skid. Nothing too exciting.
To make room for the 4-link it was necessary to move the gas tank. The V8 S-10 guys do the 2door S-10 Blazer swap to accomplish this so I figured I'd do the same so I wasn't reinventing the wheel.
First we removed the bed:
It actually worked really well to use my engine hoist to remove the bed.
Then I removed the rear frame crossmembers:
I fabricated new crossmembers to support the gas tank. The rear one was trickier than it should have been because I had to make the leaf springs work for a few more weeks. I'll add another gusset like the one on the top to the bottom once the leaf springs are gone.
Next I installed the gas tank support straps.
Then I strapped in the gas tank, extended the fuel lines and wiring. The old tank was removed and I modified the exhaust for a temporary solution until I get the 4 link in and figure out where everything fits. For a sanity check I hooked up a battery and started the truck at this point with 5 gallons in the tank.
The last step was to make a way to fill the tank. I cut the gas door off the front of the bedside (action shot!).
Then I picked a spot behind the wheel that was close to where the filler neck came out of the tank and welded the door in. I managed to cut right across the hinge for the door when I cut it off, so I had to grab a door from the parts truck.
I had to notch the frame a bit for the filler neck, I'd be more worried if the leaf springs were staying, but since they will be going away in a few weeks this will be fine.
I also had to notch one of the bed supports to clear the fuel pump and hoses.
The last step was reinstalling the bed and modifying the filler neck.
The new gas door has a slot to hold the gas cap, the old one used a plastic cable that broke off years before I ever owned the truck.
The tank hangs down a bit, but it's not too bad. I still need to make a skid plate for it since I know I'll be dropping the truck onto it.
First we removed the bed:
It actually worked really well to use my engine hoist to remove the bed.
Then I removed the rear frame crossmembers:
I fabricated new crossmembers to support the gas tank. The rear one was trickier than it should have been because I had to make the leaf springs work for a few more weeks. I'll add another gusset like the one on the top to the bottom once the leaf springs are gone.
Next I installed the gas tank support straps.
Then I strapped in the gas tank, extended the fuel lines and wiring. The old tank was removed and I modified the exhaust for a temporary solution until I get the 4 link in and figure out where everything fits. For a sanity check I hooked up a battery and started the truck at this point with 5 gallons in the tank.
The last step was to make a way to fill the tank. I cut the gas door off the front of the bedside (action shot!).
Then I picked a spot behind the wheel that was close to where the filler neck came out of the tank and welded the door in. I managed to cut right across the hinge for the door when I cut it off, so I had to grab a door from the parts truck.
I had to notch the frame a bit for the filler neck, I'd be more worried if the leaf springs were staying, but since they will be going away in a few weeks this will be fine.
I also had to notch one of the bed supports to clear the fuel pump and hoses.
The last step was reinstalling the bed and modifying the filler neck.
The new gas door has a slot to hold the gas cap, the old one used a plastic cable that broke off years before I ever owned the truck.
The tank hangs down a bit, but it's not too bad. I still need to make a skid plate for it since I know I'll be dropping the truck onto it.
Haha, I cut through a fuel door hinge the same way on a Suburban. Made me feel a bit silly.
Martin
Martin
Making quick work of it. Nice 
No doubt. Dude works fast
It was a 3 day weekend! I have a 4 day camping trip scheduled for next weekend so I had to get it done.
I think the heat just about killed me though, it's monsoon season now so the humidity is coming up so the swamp cooler in the garage doesn't do much anymore.
I still have a hole in the bedside where I stole the gas door and I'm not happy with how the filler neck turned out. I'll have to fix both of those when I pull the bed back off for the 4-link.
Nice work! Even if it was a 3 day weekend, that's a ton of work in a short time.
What did you use to extend the fuel lines? Push-Lok type hose and fittings?
What did you use to extend the fuel lines? Push-Lok type hose and fittings?
You can see the gas tank end here:
For the vent line I just cut the ends off of the factory plastic hose, they are just barb fittings so I used some 1/4" emissions hose to go from the charcoal canister to the tank.
For the fuel supply and return I used Russell GM quick disconnect (3/8 for supply, 5/16 for the return) to -6AN adapters with Russel -6 to 3/8 Push-Lok fittings and 3/8" Parker Push-Lok hose.
For the vent line I just cut the ends off of the factory plastic hose, they are just barb fittings so I used some 1/4" emissions hose to go from the charcoal canister to the tank.
For the fuel supply and return I used Russell GM quick disconnect (3/8 for supply, 5/16 for the return) to -6AN adapters with Russel -6 to 3/8 Push-Lok fittings and 3/8" Parker Push-Lok hose.
You are not joking it's been brutal here the passed couple weeks. Sooo glad I work outside. Progress looks great can't wait to see it linked.
I need to re-work the filler neck. I mounted the vent line on the under side and I think it's making it so I can't fill the tank all the way. It should be a 19 gallon tank, but I was only able to get about 17 gallons into it.
When I pull the bed off I'll re-do the filler neck setup and hopefully make it better. I also still need to fill in the hole in the front of the bedside where I cut the gas door off.
When I pull the bed off I'll re-do the filler neck setup and hopefully make it better. I also still need to fill in the hole in the front of the bedside where I cut the gas door off.
The S-10 is back in the garage with the bed off and a pile of brackets and steel sitting next to it. I should have some progress pictures later today or tomorrow.
the fun part. Can't wait to see the change.
I got all of my link brackets tacked in place and took real measurements on the actual brackets. This is what I came up with, I'll be cutting the tube to make the links tomorrow so if you see something wrong speak up quickly. 
Numbers look great, go with it
At the rate you are going and if you have everything you could potentially have a shake down run next weekend.
That is my plan, but I don't know for sure if I'll make it. I want to get the links done tomorrow, remove the leaf spring, cycle the suspension etc.
Once I'm done with that I need to pull the rear axle out so I can cut off all the leaf spring crap and make room for the coil bucket. Then I need to cut off all the bump stop crap and make room for the upper coil bucket.
If I can have the rig sitting on springs tomorrow that would be awesome.
Once I'm done with that I need to pull the rear axle out so I can cut off all the leaf spring crap and make room for the coil bucket. Then I need to cut off all the bump stop crap and make room for the upper coil bucket.
If I can have the rig sitting on springs tomorrow that would be awesome.
