CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

98 k2500. SAS'd and bobbed.

Thanks. I know I probably shouldn’t say this but I think I like theses trucks more than the squares...just more room underneath and inside and less rust.

Squares have the old iron cool appeal, but when it comes to creature comforts, they are lacking for sure. It takes A LOT of time and money to try and make the interior of a square as nice as an OBS chevy.

I do love square bodies (hence why I have two and will probably have more in the future), but it's undeniable that the OBS and newer chevy's have a lot going for them in regards to dependability and comfort. That's why I'm thinking of getting a crew cab dually OBS and SAS'ing it. That way when I decide to go on the longer road trips with the family while towing (at least once or twice a year I do this) that it will be more comfortable than my old square V3500. Then when I just wanna be a bad ass, I'll tow with my V3500 on the weekend day trips, just cause it's cool :cool:

Keep it up man...I like where this build is going
 
Are you still going to run the AC compressor up top or can you mount it back in the stock location?
 
Are you still going to run the AC compressor up top or can you mount it back in the stock location?

yeah its going to stay up high. I cant use the factory passenger low mount because of my motor mounts. I use the factory sbc/bbc mounting location to keep the engine farther back and avoid moving the transmission. This puts the mount where the compressor needs to be. Also the engine is pushed way to the passenger side on these trucks making the compressor hit the frame.

There is a kit out there that puts the compressor in the stock location for the gmt400 trucks. Basically where my alternator is, and moves the alternator to where my ac compressor is. I would need the brackets, re wire my alternator, buy a new compressor, and figure out a belt. To me thats too much work and money to run the stock compressor hoses and switches. I just buy/make some custom fittings to adapt the metric ac to standard compressor and put some switches in to make it all work.
 
37EA2CAF-B96F-47B5-B2FE-1CDFAF89EF0C.jpeg I moved the axle back an inch to the stock hole in the perch. Looks a bit better in my opinion. I also tossed in the steering box and some 12” travel shocks mid stroke. I was planning on using some tube shock towers I have laying around but now I think I’m just going to weld on some ford towers and call it a day

I also hiked up to silver lake today. Not a bad spot other than all the people

2F446327-1D0C-4078-A4D5-6F742EE99177.jpeg

CF016275-FEA1-47F5-A20D-E0233AF46B83.jpeg

28BD799C-4ACF-444C-B687-6C5FD7FCB48A.jpeg

D56A9E4D-941E-45B0-B0E9-8E242BAF3FB9.jpeg
 
Got the shifters mounted up today. Linkage should be simple with just heim joints running back to the shift shafts. I did have to remove the duct for the driver side rear AC. Looks like the dog will only have luxury on one side in the back.

Speaking of ac. I put the core support back in today. Decided to check the orifice tube. It’s full of metal. I knew the AC didn’t work before. The guy said it blew a seal and leaked out. Looks like it also shelled a compressor in the process. I was already replacing the dryer, office tube, compressor, and soft lines. I guess I’ll add the condensor to that list. I bet the evaporator is fine considering the orifice tube would have caught all the junk. Hopefully at least

5BEB4354-E432-4829-89C0-35B3BC1C46B9.jpeg

A44A29BA-6948-4AC1-84DD-C7B571AA2383.jpeg
 
So it turns out the old cruise control module shares the same bolt pattern as the TAC module. Which is nice because I can take 4 wires out of the cruise control plug to tie into the TAC harness to make cruise control work with the factory switches in the cab.

107B69E1-EF61-4264-B264-A2CE4C9806CB.jpeg
 
So it turns out the old cruise control module shares the same bolt pattern as the TAC module. Which is nice because I can take 4 wires out of the cruise control plug to tie into the TAC harness to make cruise control work with the factory switches in the cab.

View attachment 273973
Dude! that's awesome!!!
 
The 98 harness is done now hopefully, just need to loom it up after I figure out where plugs need to go. I removed all of the engine management from it. I have 18 pins that will interface with the LS PCM to control the truck functions like air conditioning and the instrument cluster. I have a feeling getting all of the programming correct is going to be fun. My fuel sending unit uses a 0-90 ohm float while the truck wants a 40-200. My pcm wants to see serial data for AC request and a pressure transducer for control and I plan on using a 12v request and a cycle switch for control. Probably take a few segment swaps to get things working.

The good thing is none of that will keep it from running or driving.

8F58779B-8D01-4883-BB44-1E43FBC340F8.jpeg

269399D0-E9DA-4204-80F4-5D5729395CD4.jpeg
 
At the pace he’s currently working he will make it.
 
You going to have this done in a few weeks ?
Going to Blazer Bash ?

Probably not. I have the time off so I could go in he green truck. but that is probably going to be used u working on this thing. Plus my trip money got spent on parts.

At the pace he’s currently working he will make it.

It’s only going so quick because I pre bought most of the parts so the swap would be as seemless as possible. The only major things I have left to buy are the driveshafts. Tom woods will have those done the day after I order them though. Im also waiting to see if I can get the radiator clean enough for my liking, if not I’ll juat buy a part store replacement. It’s coated in the typical nasty brown sludge gm is known for and I don’t want that to transfer to the new engine
 
Not a bad idea!

Thanks. The terminals are super cheap to buy and easy to re pin the connector. The connectors aren’t expensive either but the junk yard is cheaper.


Today progress was made. Shock towers are done. Brake line tabs are done, and the front crossmember has been clearances so the springs don’t hit when they compress. I remembered I had some GM bumpstops on the shelf so I figured I would use those. they are for the rear of a gmt800 truck and are super cheap to buy. I want to make a 1” tall mount for them. They are 3.5” tall but compress down almost all the way. At ride height I should have 3.5” before I contact them.

F3BB805E-FF94-4B35-9A75-83C729F5F0A9.jpeg

E38DE8F8-37B3-40E5-9366-F159BA2AA41D.jpeg
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom