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A bit hoppy

70jimmy said:
There is a direct message option just hover your cursor over the member name you want to message from one of their posts, a box will appear click on start a conversation.
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If the truck has sat or the transmission fluid smells burnt a fluid and filter change is money well spent. Looks like a great project. This site will pay for itself, although you will also buy lots of stuff.
 
Topic jump real quick to tie rod. I'm trying to find one reasonably priced and not having much luck. Mines not terrible, as you can see from the pic, but I'd feel more comfortable with a straight one. Do the K10s and K20s use the same? If so I might be able to get one.

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Jack Schmitt said:
Topic jump real quick to tie rod. I'm trying to find one reasonably priced and not having much luck. Mines not terrible, as you can see from the pic, but I'd feel more comfortable with a straight one. Do the K10s and K20s use the same? If so I might be able to get one.

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Yes k10 and k20 both have the same axle so same tie rod
 
Hey all, looking for some experience on switching out leaf springs. I'm putting a new 3 pack up front replacing a 2 pack with blocks. I put the center pin in the hole and couldn't get the end bolts in. So I did the end bolts first (not exactly smooth either) and now I'm pretty far from that hole. When I measure from bolt hole to center pin on the old spring vs the new, it seems the same length. Not sure why I'm so far off. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Not exactly sure if your problem since I can’t see the pics, but if you need to spread the springs out you can place a 2x4 on the top of the springs and then use a couple ratchet straps to compress the springs and make the spring eyes line up.
 
Bolt the springs in first and then slide the axle around to line up the spring center pins. Maybe your push/pull linkage is holding things up.
 
I used a ratching tie down strap to pull the axle to where I need it.
Or loosen the other side u bolts.
 
Guys, my 85 K5 is running a GM Goodwrench 350 with edelbrock carb. Non of the emissions stuff is necessary anymore and I want to clean up the engine bstuff. Get rid of all unnecessary stuff. I will have heat and AC though, so I don't want to lose things like the vacuum lines that go inside.
I have 2 questions. I have what looks like a large vacuum line going through the firewall on the driver side (pics included) wrapped along with some wires that looked like they were possibly emissions related. The vacuum like looks like it goes to a brake switch. Would this have been cruise control related or something? There doesn't seem to be cruise on the switch arm but I guess that doesn't mean it wasn't there at one time.
Second question. Is this junction looking thing on the front part of the frame all emissions/vacuum related? Again, my goal is to remove stuff and cap where necessary or reroute if necessary.
OH! Third question, just thought of it. Should I just get a different sending unit for the fuel tank that is just simple and works with the new set up?
I appreciate any input you guys have.

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The part on the frame crossmember is the brake proportioning valve. It has the warning switch built in as well so that if you lose pressure on the front or back the light comes on.
 
Yes it is, there should be a module mounter to the right side of the brake pedal support bracket.
 
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