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Abusfullofnuns Suburban going long in the rear

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So true.. I am pretty sure a busfullofnuns blew through the stoplight and smashed into the data center of photphucket causing a chain reaction...
 
A couple of updates:

Using it for what it's built for:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/trip-report-big-south-fork.332203/

I also pulled all off the molding of the truck, and man that was a bitch. I ordered an adhesive remover after some struggling, but I haven't gone back to clean it all up yet.

I also added some Fox 2.0s to the rear end to replace the Rough Country junkers. Turns out they were completely trash. The handling of the boat actually got worse, but the ride in the rear is night/day different. The handling was probably better before because all four were trash and the boat floated on the same path. Now the rear is planted and the front is floating.

I'll detail why I only replaced the rear for now in my next post. I was waiting on more parts.

Moral of the story is to get the Rough Country crap off as quick as possible. I'm not convinced that they were even doing anything to help the springs.
 
I've been stockpiling parts for the suspension. I have a set of 52s and 56s that I was going to use, but the advice here and in other threads had me second guessing. I've finally landed on some springs and shocks.

I bought a bunch of shocks and springs from mudboggink5 to finally force me to finalize my plans.

The shocks are Fox 2.0s and Bilstien 5125. I've put the Fox 2.0's on the rear for now, but they likely won't be used in the long run. I've also committed to buy some 7000 series Bilsteins from @bmxbryant9 so the Fox's will probably be sold.

Here's my plan for the front:

B52s
52" ORD 4' Springs
Bilstein 7100
ORD FUSH
DIY4X Crosstied 6" Shackle
Ford Shock Towers (hopefully with some improvements until another plan)


Plan for the rear
ORD 4" Shackle Flip
Tuff Country EZ rides 64" (probably too soft, need to weigh truck, add leaves?)
Bilstein 5125
DIY4x USDR 6" Shackles

I already have all of these parts, but still need the u-bolts, shackle bolts, and misc little stuff. I am thinking about the DIY4X inboarding kit, but haven't pulled the trigger. I'm not confident on shackle lengths, but I'll


Anyone see any issues? I assume that I'll need some different shims, but not sure which for a suburban with 7-8" of lift. I guess that it will depend on where the rear axle ends up.

I am moving the first of January, so I think I'm going to wait to install everything until the new house. The work area is nine million times better. Paved, flat spot with room for 4 cars, and two garages that meet the flat area. Storage shed so only bikes and tools in the garage. I am super stoked to be able to work on something other than slanted gravel.

When the springs are installed, I'll throw on the crossover kit and Yukon joints. I kind of want to get some chromo axles to install at the same point. I plan to step up from the 35's, so it wouldn't hurt to increase the strength. I suppose my weakness issue will move to the R&P, but I don't plan on heavy wheeling. Mostly two track and easy trails, I just would rather not get stranded with the family exploring.

Advice, criticisms???
 
Using crossover?

My only really question is on the rear, are you moving the rear spring, front shackle for the 64's? If not, the they will shift the rear way back, right? Just thinking about all the body "skirt" to deal with back there if the axle is moved way back.
 
nvrenuf said:
Using crossover?

My only really question is on the rear, are you moving the rear spring, front shackle for the 64's? If not, the they will shift the rear way back, right? Just thinking about all the body "skirt" to deal with back there if the axle is moved way back.
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Crossover will be coming soon after. I have most of the parts, but don't have both knuckles. I wasn't aware I needed both until recently. @truck-oholic mentioned that we could modiify the knuckle I have to fit. I'll likely wait for him to make it back to Tennessee to help me.

As far as the front hanger on the rear....I assumed that it would have to moved forward a couple of inches. I know there's not much room, but it seems like if only need a couple of inches to make it work. I'm not opposed to some light trimming.

I can't find a whole lot of info on the 64" spring install that wasn't killed by Photobucket or links that are dead.
 
4” ORD
3” rears

I have no idea how this setup with my shackles will shake out height wise. The suspension parts were purchased from ORD together. I plan to have a set of ez inches ton hand just in case.

I need to call ORD for some specifics but I need to stop by the scales first.
 
Last edited:
That’s the plan. The 6” kit on it now doesn’t seem too tall. I’d like to go toward 37s or 40” in an all terrain type tire.
 
truck-oholic said:
Don't do the shock inboarding, it greatly reduces effectiveness and is unnecessary
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Thanks for the advice dude. I figured that it was a trade off between travel vs dampening effectiveness. I’m not itching to spend the $200 on it.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
Thanks for the advice dude. I figured that it was a trade off between travel vs dampening effectiveness. I’m not itching to spend the $200 on it.
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Most people run a 10-12" shock in the rear without issue. Don't think you'll need longer than that for your intended use and/or the trails that will accommodate a full bodied burb like this.

With regard to tire size, i vote 37s. It's a good happy all around size and you probably won't have to regear since you're already good on 35s.
 
I currently have 4" springs up front and 5" lift 64" rear tuff country 1/2 ton pickup springs out back with a 1.5" block and longer 6" shackles in a factory style setup for more shackle swing. I want to go up another 1.5" out back cuz it sits a little low. I could prob do an 8" lift rear spring with no blocks and be just right but mine were new used ones so I'll just do a taller block.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
Thanks. Yours was one of the only ones that I could find. I’m not sure that I want to weld on my shackle mount, not to mention no welder anymore.
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You could easily do it bolt on. I just did it that way to get it closer to my cab mount and I was in a hurry with limited resources so easier to just weld on. @TnA was doing a 64" swap kit for blazers but I think he's not doing much currently. I'd just move both hangers out if you can and drill new holes to bolt them on.
 
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