Abusfullofnuns Suburban going long in the rear

[TuckerK5]

Ok, shackle mounts got put on last night and I installed the ORD springs after work today. Since I had to install 6” shackles, I removed the zero rate from the springs. I cycled the suspension a little bit with out the tires on. I’m definitely not happy with the shackle angle so far. We will see once I can properly check travel. I sure wish ORD had sent the right parts. I had a $1000 dollar order that took weeks to ship and was missing the shackle kit, 5 packs of nuts and bolts, and something else. They sent what was short, but the wrong size shackle kit.

The springs are drilled offset, and when I moved the axle forward, the driveshaft fell apart. I figured I’d need to get it lengthened, but I don’t have to wonder now. A de-fang is most definitely in my future. I probably won’t even be able to install the tires without it.

Fender cutting and shock mounting still to come. Maybe even a pic or two. I need to run down the torque values for the shackles and springs too.

Hate to hear about the tough luck man. Hope the next session goes better!

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Small amount of progress in between conference calls today. I got the springs and shackles at correct torque. I’m going to wait on the U-bolts until I’m satisfied with shackle length and zero rate combo.

Old shock mounts removed, which ended up being the most stubborn rivets so far. I just need to flex this beast out and confirm how I’m going to mount the turd towers. Waiting on the frame paint to dry where I removed the shock mounts. Probably going to call it until tomorrow.

 

[skunked]

Ok, shackle mounts got put on last night and I installed the ORD springs after work today. Since I had to install 6” shackles, I removed the zero rate from the springs. I cycled the suspension a little bit with out the tires on. I’m definitely not happy with the shackle angle so far. We will see once I can properly check travel. I sure wish ORD had sent the right parts. I had a $1000 dollar order that took weeks to ship and was missing the shackle kit, 5 packs of nuts and bolts, and something else. They sent what was short, but the wrong size shackle kit.

The springs are drilled offset, and when I moved the axle forward, the driveshaft fell apart. I figured I’d need to get it lengthened, but I don’t have to wonder now. A de-fang is most definitely in my future. I probably won’t even be able to install the tires without it.

Fender cutting and shock mounting still to come. Maybe even a pic or two. I need to run down the torque values for the shackles and springs too.

what springs did you buy? What's wrong with the shackle angle?

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

what springs did you buy? What's wrong with the shackle angle?

Springs are 4” ORD with the center pin moved forward. Originally planned on using a 4” ORD shackle with a zero rate. The shackle kit they sent me was for the smaller bushings. I had a 6” diy4x set at the house already. I removed the zero rate when I decided to use the longer shackle.

The shackle seems to be pretty vertical. I haven’t set it back down on the tires, but when I cycled with a floor jack, it didn’t seem to swing back. The spring seemed all the way flat, but I didn’t push it just to try and swing the shackle.

My complaint about the shackle angle may be premature, but didn’t feel right.

 

[skunked]

The shackle kit they sent me was for the smaller bushings. I had a 6” diy4x set at the house already.

Only difference in the shackle is the smaller hole right?

My complaint about the shackle angle may be premature, but didn’t feel right.

That's where I was going with my question, you need to drive on it.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Only difference in the shackle is the smaller hole right?

Yes, but they also sent smaller bushings and shackle bolts. For $100 I didn’t want to drill them. I suppose that was the easy answer, but my daughter ripped the cord out of my drill press with her bike and I haven’t fixed it.

I’ll finish assembling and take it around the neighborhood. Hopefully that can happen tomorrow.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Didn’t get the shocks mounted, but I did take off the factory brake line mount. I’ll need to figure out some sort of replacement. I’m hoping to mount the ford towers just rearward of said mount. I haven’t measured to see if I’ll have enough clearance at the steering shaft though.

I spent some time looking at the compressor and realized it’s the unloader valve. I decided to move forward with trimming the fenders and just had to be sure to keep the compressor running. Ghetto, but I’ll order the valve. I took the fenders down to an even 5” below the marker light. I’ll probably do some more work on the corner.

Here’s the shackle angle. Maybe not as bad as I thought once the full weight is on the tires. I jumped up and down on the bumper and took the pic. The fender measures a 1/2” higher on the passenger side and 1” lower on the drivers prior to spring swap. That’s compared to 6” rough country springs. Fresh body mounts but no shocks.

I’ll hook a hoist up to the rear and check the motion, get the shocks mounted, remove the front drive shaft, adjust the drag link a little more, and take her for a spin. Seems super soft, but hard to say for sure without shocks.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

edited prior post to reflect 1” lower on drivers side, not higher.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Flexing front by lifting rear. Bump stops not functional.

I’ve got some questions:

How far negative arch(if any)should I be setting as full bump? I still need to figure bump stops out and it won’t be this week.

How does the shackle look? Should it be swinging further to the rear at full bump?

Front compressed with the beginnings of negative arch in longest leaf.


Compressed a jack stroke further and full lock. Needs a hair more trimming.


Same pic but rear view, but one less jack stroke.


Shackle angle and view of the negative arch. The next stroke or two sent the shackle back a bit further. Didn’t want to push the springs any further.



High side.

 

[chris85]

Got a pic of how you are lifting the rear? Gotta set springs towers soon myself.

Fang chop looks good. Probably have to chop that inner corner off. I have to do the same. I’m just gonna try to follow the contour of the inner fender.

How far forward are the springs drilled?

I know that negative arch is what wears springs out quickly, but with the ORDs I don’t know where they recommend limiting their travel.

 

[chris85]

ORD website states springs are good for 10-11” of vertical travel, but the vehicle weight takes up half of that so 5-6” of compression travel from ride height is typical.

Hope that helps.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Got a pic of how you are lifting the rear? Gotta set springs towers soon myself.

Fang chop looks good. Probably have to chop that inner corner off. I have to do the same. I’m just gonna try to follow the contour of the inner fender.

How far forward are the springs drilled?

I know that negative arch is what wears springs out quickly, but with the ORDs I don’t know where they recommend limiting their travel.

I’m lifting the rear with my engine hoist. My rear bumper has two attachment points and I just hooked the hoist to a clevis.

On the chop, I didn’t go all the way to the contour. There’s an inch or so left. I wanted to give myself some extra in case I messed up. The corner has me spooked. I want to get a curve that I’m happy with and likely will only get one shot.

ORD website states springs are good for 10-11” of vertical travel, but the vehicle weight takes up half of that so 5-6” of compression travel from ride height is typical.

Hope that helps.

It does help, I forgot reading that months ago. I guess I’ll go out and take some measurements of frame to axle tube. Then lift it again and carefully measure as it starts to go negative.

I’ll try to do that in a little while and report back.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

I had to run around a bunch, so not a lot of progress. I did however get the drivers side shock mounted. Pretty much vertical and should have 6” of up travel. I ordered the 4.5 inch energy suspension bump stops to install. I’ll put a spacer in with those to bring the uptravel down an inch or so. The steering is pretty close but should have some room to flex if needed. I need to change out the hardware and I’ll get some pics.

The ford towers that I used were already cut, and they are too short in my opinion. I’ve got xl flat washers on the back side, but I’m going to pick up some metal to build a plate to reinforce them from behind. I’ll replace the towers at the same time. The bolts are too close together for me to be comfortable with it long term.

Didn’t get around to finish the fender trim job.

 

[natemc]

Looks good! I'm hoping to follow this as you progress even more

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

I finally had time to get back at the truck today.

After I got the passenger side shock tower mounted, I realized that the 5125s were directional. This caused a rework on the drivers side. I had it body down for clearance purposes. When flipped correctly, the shock body was just close enough to the steering shaft to rub. I massaged the end of the shock body, but it was not enough. It looks like the towers really need to be inset to the frame on the drivers side. I ended up angling it back a touch to create clearance. These towers won’t be my permanent set up.

I made sure everything was torqued correctly and greased, and then set the burb back on its shoes. I pulled the front driveshaft to get it lengthened. This is at ride height.

The last thing for the day was to readjust the drag link. I moved the axle a couple of inches forward and screwed up the length. I pulled he drag link, centered the box, and adjusted the DL. There wasn’t enough room to shorten as much as I needed, so a sawzall was the ticket. Cut her down and all was good. Only thing left is to drive it and retorque. Crossover will be for another weekend when I’m free.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Forgot to add....

I still need to finish the fender trimming. I also found that the pitman arm was just loose enough to have some play. I snugged it down as tight as I could, but still need to confirm torque value.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Small bits of progress between life and kids.

Got the passenger knuckle replaced. Just lack changing the box and installing the drag link for crossover. I’ll get that done after I get back from a week of debauchery and partying.

Installed a Yukon super joint on that side at the same time. Had to clearance the axle a ton to get the clips to fit stock axles. I was about to pull the trigger on some 4340 axles, but last minute counted splines and realized I have 30 spline inners. That was a bit of a surprise.

Also changed brake pads and swapped the mile marker hubs for the warn premium variety.

Forgot to take more than one pic.


Still working on getting the truck completely twisted to order a front driveshaft.

The ORD front springs are sagging toward the drivers side and it’s driving me crazy. The frame to axle distance is a little over an inch difference. It’s really noticeable from the front and rear. I’ve got a zero rate that I can add but a little disappointed that the difference is so much. I’ve got about 3000 miles on them, not sure if the other is going to even out.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

I do want to add that there is some difference to weight distribution on the truck. Both batteries and a York 210 are on the low side.

 

[chris85]

I do want to add that there is some difference to weight distribution on the truck. Both batteries and a York 210 are on the low side.

I’ve read of some others rigs being a little lopsided with ORDs. Mines a little crooked too. I don’t know of a fix for it though. What shocks are you running?

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

I’ve read of some others rigs being a little lopsided with ORDs. Mines a little crooked too. I don’t know of a fix for it though. What shocks are you running?

5125’s on the front for now. I have a set of 7100s that I’ll put on once I get rebuild kits and revalve.

I wouldn’t mind a slight lean, but someone asks about the lean once or twice a week. It’s really noticeable. I’ll snap a couple of pics.