Yeah I just got a driveshaft made last month 1310 flange on the cv end 18" slip $450 out the door
They also clearanced the cv for me
CK5
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Abusfullofnuns Suburban going long in the rear
- Thread starter Abusfullofnuns
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They also clearanced the cv for me
Thanks. Too bad my head fabricator abandoned me and moved away.Gonna have to buy another welder now and then I'll probably burn the house down. I don't know how you'll sleep at night.
That actually just reminded me to change my location on here . . . and take out an insurance policy on your house with me as the beneficiary.
Bump!
Anything new? Driving? Trips?
Anything new? Driving? Trips?
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Too strange. I was poking around to see if you had updated your thread today.
Not much to update. I figured out that my fuel leak is higher up than where it’s dripping. It’s got to be leaking at the corvette regulator. I haven’t really been motivated to work on it. I’d like to install a fuel mat, new pump, and regulator but there’s 35 gallons of fuel in the tank. I’ll tighten the lines and check it tomorrow.
I’ve been having a weird voltage issue that I’m betting is the alternator’s internal regulator. I pulled the alternator today and am going to take it to the electrical shop tomorrow. It is only rated for 105A, so I’ll need to do something about that as well.
Also pulled the idler pulley for my onboard air compressor. It was starting to sing, so I’ll replace it too.
Still haven’t decided whether or not to install the tuff country 64’s that I’ve got sitting here. I was leaning toward just ordering the Alcans, but I’m getting bored and need a project. I wonder if those new diy4x front hangers work on a suburban frame. Probably not would be my guess.
Trying to get motivated for building a console and installing some amps and speakers.
Not much to update. I figured out that my fuel leak is higher up than where it’s dripping. It’s got to be leaking at the corvette regulator. I haven’t really been motivated to work on it. I’d like to install a fuel mat, new pump, and regulator but there’s 35 gallons of fuel in the tank. I’ll tighten the lines and check it tomorrow.
I’ve been having a weird voltage issue that I’m betting is the alternator’s internal regulator. I pulled the alternator today and am going to take it to the electrical shop tomorrow. It is only rated for 105A, so I’ll need to do something about that as well.
Also pulled the idler pulley for my onboard air compressor. It was starting to sing, so I’ll replace it too.
Still haven’t decided whether or not to install the tuff country 64’s that I’ve got sitting here. I was leaning toward just ordering the Alcans, but I’m getting bored and need a project. I wonder if those new diy4x front hangers work on a suburban frame. Probably not would be my guess.
Trying to get motivated for building a console and installing some amps and speakers.
Do we need to schedule another event to light the fire?
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1 year and some change later and I finally decide to put the 64” rears on. Came home from work and the girls were at the pool. 30 minutes later and we are on the way.
Next time to remove the stiffies.
Next time to remove the stiffies.
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Wow, that was a lot harder to get out than I expected. I almost resorted to cutting the shackle bolts. Also quite surprised on how much preload were on the springs with no load. That would have killed somebody if they were wrenching from above.
30 minutes for one damn spring.
30 minutes for one damn spring.
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At least the bushings were in good condition.
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Of course the gas tank is full. I’ve been playing pump
jockey for the last hour getting 5 gallons at a time. Half way there.
jockey for the last hour getting 5 gallons at a time. Half way there.
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Ok, had to break for groceries and dinner. Hit it for a few minutes when we got home. Both springs are out, one side rear spring perch is out, and the tank is down to 1/4. I’ll remove the tank tomorrow, remove the other perch, and get started on the rivets.
Still undecided about whether to leave or move the crossmember.
Bushings were about the same. Blows my mind that the previous owner did the suspension swap to rough country and reused the factory bushings and shackle. There’s less than 15K on the build.
Still undecided about whether to leave or move the crossmember.
Bushings were about the same. Blows my mind that the previous owner did the suspension swap to rough country and reused the factory bushings and shackle. There’s less than 15K on the build.
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Scrap pile is growing. I guess it’s time to get sparky. Nothing left but rivets 
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Progress has slowed to a crawl. Only was able to get four or five rivets out on one side in about an hour. I used a combination of grinder and air hammer. Some of these are hard to get at with the grinder and I guess my air hammer sucks. Hopefully more progress tomorrow.
Alternator is at a rebuilder checking the voltage regulator for me. The can bus connection for the Dakota gauges will drop signal every once in a while at idle. I’m pretty sure it’s the ecu seeing low voltage and cutting output. Only guages that are affected are the ones that don’t have dedicated sending units. Either the alternator or the BIM.
Alternator is at a rebuilder checking the voltage regulator for me. The can bus connection for the Dakota gauges will drop signal every once in a while at idle. I’m pretty sure it’s the ecu seeing low voltage and cutting output. Only guages that are affected are the ones that don’t have dedicated sending units. Either the alternator or the BIM.
The best way I've found to get out rivets is to drill them first. I start around 3/16 for a pilot to make fillowing with a 3/8" easier. Just drill to the intersection, then use the air chisel to knock the head off, and switch it to punch to drive the remaining rivet through. Of course if you can't fit a drill, then it's grinder or anything you can figure out, including just worrying your way through with the air chisel. Last ditch option is the blue-wrench. I prefer not to go there just because of the potential for damage, but even that can be fixed. I just went through this a few weeks back when I converted my Sub project to a 40 gal tank. Moving that cross member back, 4 rivets are readily accessible and easily removed. But short of having a big body lift, or body off, getting those 4 top rivets is a total PIA.
Anyway, good luck. Looking forward to more updates.
Anyway, good luck. Looking forward to more updates.
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Thanks @BadDog
I’ll try that tomorrow. I exclusively used the chisel for one that I couldn’t get to with the grinder and it took at least ten minutes of just straight banging. I crawled out and noticed that four different neighbors were in their driveways looking at my house. There’s only six houses on my street! I had ear protection and was letting her have it.
I’ll try that tomorrow. I exclusively used the chisel for one that I couldn’t get to with the grinder and it took at least ten minutes of just straight banging. I crawled out and noticed that four different neighbors were in their driveways looking at my house. There’s only six houses on my street! I had ear protection and was letting her have it.
Yeah, that's how I got the top 4 out on my tank crossmember. According to my memory, 10 minutes each would have been a blessing. Luckily I have a larger property with block wall. I'm sure they were not happy, but the neighbors are further away with teh block wall for isolation... and at least I don't have to look at them glaring back. I'm sure they love me.
While at it, I removed all the other extraneous that I kept banking my head into, like the driver's side exhaust hangers (turbo, so no duals), some of which are riveted. Drilling and popping, probably less than 3 minutes each, most of that drilling.
While at it, I removed all the other extraneous that I kept banking my head into, like the driver's side exhaust hangers (turbo, so no duals), some of which are riveted. Drilling and popping, probably less than 3 minutes each, most of that drilling.
Torch is the best way and fastest. My not be the safest is a gas tank is near......
Last couple of rivets I got out I cut an X in the head of the rivet w/ a grinder and then used an air hammer w/ a chisel bit to knock off the rest of the head. Was pretty quick.
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Yeah, the drilling is going a little bit better. I just got 5 heads off in thirty minutes and was working on the sixth. Unfortunately, my shirt got caught in the drill. Hurt like a son of a bitch. Took me a second to let go before I stopped playing tug of war with the drill, my arm, and my sleeve. Had long sleeves b/c of grinding, and it happened super fast.
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Progress report-calling it for the night. I need to get a better punch, can’t find my good one. The air hammer doesn’t seem to be moving them anymore. I got out he 3lb sledge but the punch I was using succumbed to my brute strength. Only three more rivet heads to address.
Proof of better success with the rivets.
Proof of better success with the rivets.
