I’ve seen that grab brake lines coming out from under.
CK5
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Another bad U-joint????
- Thread starter 78 GMC Jimmy
- Start date
Hell, it could crack the trans case or bellhousing if it hit at the right angle.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I cant tell if there are vibration issues. Its a big loud rig. Sometimes at certain speeds there does seem to be more vibration, but nothing super obvious. Not all the pics were taken at the same time. There are two sets of pics. Why is the lower part of the driveshaft such an issue. Sure doesn't look like it will fly apart to me. No heat at that end of the driveshaft. So how do I make sure its in phase without Geordi?
This is why - Ray Charles can see this ain’t right.
It’s like a rope that’s frayed - it’s gonna break eventually when used under stress.
We’ve got nothing to gain by telling you to replace it - most of us are/were mechanics and better and are just trying to help with spreading some wisdom your way before you regret it.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Phase info:
If it were a clock:
Currently,
3:00 PM / 9:00 PM on the rear.
1:30PM 6:30PM on the front.
Could this alone cause the front U-joint to overheat and fail?
If it were a clock:
Currently,
3:00 PM / 9:00 PM on the rear.
1:30PM 6:30PM on the front.
Could this alone cause the front U-joint to overheat and fail?
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
your angles are wrong for that style drive shaft.
With your current style
shaft you need angle to match.
The pinon looks like it might angled correct for a cv style shaft.
So which angle to I have and what do I do to make it the correct angle? I think I have #2 from the top.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
So I think I need to replace the U-joint with a greasable one with zirks, and then get Burton to fix the phaser issue. Then grease the zirk on a regular bases. Hows that sound to all yall? Any other suggestions aside from throwing $$ at it?
To me, that would be a better option (if it works) than dropping $400 on a drive shaft. A penny saved is a penny earned.
Yes, Yes, I know that taking the gas cap off, throwing the rest away, and putting the gas cap on a brand new rig would be the "best" option, but that's not the way I roll. Warren Buffet (133.5 billion net worth) drives a beat up old car and eats fast food to save money.
Nicolas Cage went from being worth over 100 million, to being 6 million in debt. I'm guessing he was a gas cap kinda guy.
To me, that would be a better option (if it works) than dropping $400 on a drive shaft. A penny saved is a penny earned.
Yes, Yes, I know that taking the gas cap off, throwing the rest away, and putting the gas cap on a brand new rig would be the "best" option, but that's not the way I roll. Warren Buffet (133.5 billion net worth) drives a beat up old car and eats fast food to save money.
Nicolas Cage went from being worth over 100 million, to being 6 million in debt. I'm guessing he was a gas cap kinda guy.
from your pictures it looks like #3 from top, only backwards. You want #2 from the top, If you stay with the 2 u joint style shaft.
Yes having clocking like you describe will cause a failure. Align the ears on the shaft. Be aware even with the ears aligned it could still 180° out on balance.
Yes having clocking like you describe will cause a failure. Align the ears on the shaft. Be aware even with the ears aligned it could still 180° out on balance.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
OK, I will line it up the way you suggest. How do I tell if Im 180 out? Put the rear end on a jack stand and spin it up? Then try the other way, to see which shakes the rig less?
If you have a gopro or similar, clip it to the chassis and go for drive. shouldn't have any out of round at the either end.
Isn't the tube dented here?
While it's *probably* not going to pretzel up the first time you stomp it in 1st gear, it still means it's out of balance. Bad angles, out of phase, out of balance - these things will make vibration and wear joints out quick. A driveline shop can retube that, replace the yoke and balance, but the price is going to be similar to brand new custom:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284745302233. This is like the price of the parts.
Grab an angle finder or download an angle finder app and measure both yokes and the shaft. That's the only way to know what needs adjustment. Nobody can tell you from pictures.
While it's *probably* not going to pretzel up the first time you stomp it in 1st gear, it still means it's out of balance. Bad angles, out of phase, out of balance - these things will make vibration and wear joints out quick. A driveline shop can retube that, replace the yoke and balance, but the price is going to be similar to brand new custom:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284745302233. This is like the price of the parts.
Grab an angle finder or download an angle finder app and measure both yokes and the shaft. That's the only way to know what needs adjustment. Nobody can tell you from pictures.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
your angles are wrong for that style drive shaft.
With your current style
shaft you need angle to match.
The pinon looks like it might angled correct for a cv style shaft.
How did you post this pic in a way that I can see it? Usually the pics are tiny and not usable, due to being a free member.
I put it in the gallery and then linked it
Another question is the condition of the slip-yoke. If this thing has been running out of balance for a while, the splines may be worn, making the problem even worse.
So yeah, if you need 2 yokes and a tube, just buy a new driveshaft and take the new slip splines for free.
When you put the new U-joint in, how freely did it move? It's possible the ears are bent and putting extra pressure on the needles. It's also possible that since it's running off-balance and whatever other issues is simply killing the needles until some break, at which point everything gets jammed up.
So yeah, if you need 2 yokes and a tube, just buy a new driveshaft and take the new slip splines for free.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I got the driveshaft out today. The needles on the front had turned to a gritty grey paste. The rear U-joint had play, so you could take the driveshaft and clunk it back and fourth about 1/8 inch at the rear. The U-joint itself was moving back and fourth in the yoke, do to a missing outer clip, due to yoke damage in the clip area. I plan to grind the yoke so that I can put a clip in there and secure that U-joint properly. I did take the shaft apart and put it back into phase (or 180 out). I will install two new greasable U-joints and grease then put the rear axle on jack stands and spin up the driveshaft to see if it wobbles. If so, I will 180 the thing. Then I plan to drive it and see if the U-joint in the front gets hot.
Thoughts?
If the cap can move in the yoke, the yoke needs to go, whether you can get a clip in there or not. The clip keeps things centered, but the cap has to be a press-fit. Making this shaft work again is a trail fix, not a road-worthy solution. You don't want anybody to get hurt.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
OK, so mine measures 42 compressed and 45 extended. Anyone got one to sell? Yokes and seals too if ya got them.
I believe that you are missing the point of us giving you advice THAT YOU ASKED FOR on what’s wrong and what’s the proper way to fix it.
Nobody is saying that repairing existing components is a bad thing but at some point ya gotta wake up and realize that a replacement is needed for a long term remedy.
Your words of ( and I quote below)
“Yes, Yes, I know that taking the gas cap off, throwing the rest away, and putting the gas cap on a brand new rig would be the "best" option, but that's not the way I roll. Warren Buffet (133.5 billion net worth) drives a beat up old car and eats fast food to save money.
Nicolas Cage went from being worth over 100 million, to being 6 million in debt. I'm guessing he was a gas cap kinda guy.”
There’s a big difference in being thrifty and being just damn cheap.
How many u-joints will you replace before it sinks in that a problem exists that should be addressed?
Many folks have costed themselves a lot of money by trying too hard to “save” and cutting corners when a little spent in the right areas would have been cheaper in the long run and saved so much hassle and effort.
We’ve been over all of this in a previous post about your driveshaft when we identified parts for you and the answers are still the same - you have damaged parts that need replacing.
All these guys are giving you solid advice so please don’t offend them with talk like they are telling you to waste money all because you know better.
Take these comments as helpful and not hurtful and think about when it’s a good idea to use baling wire and duct tape and when it’s better to replace with parts that are not damaged.
Besides once you stop constantly needing to replace u-joints you can spend that $25 on a membership so you can see the pictures we are trying to help you with.
Just something to think about…
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I understand what you are saying. I take no offense, and I mean no offense. I do not always do mechanical repairs the same way that others do. I gather advice, and mix that with my previous experience and then go from there. I do appreciate all the advice, and it is all useful and taken into consideration, however I may not follow it - even if it is correct.
That’s all well and good - it just somewhat felt like Ground Hawgs Day this second time around…
