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Another bad U-joint????

tarussell said:
That’s all well and good - it just somewhat felt like Ground Hawgs Day this second time around…
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One of my favorite movies.

I want to try getting this driveshaft to work, either by adjustments, replacement of the U-Joint and fixing the phase, replacing the whole thing with a similar one, etc. If that doesn't work, I will probably get one of the 3 joint custom made ones.

Maybe the topic was discussed before, but nothing about "phase" was ever mentioned until this time around. So lets fix the phase and see how it goes this time. I will check the U-joint temps on every driving, and if they get hot - then its time for the next possible fix or maybe that 3 joint replacement. Just have to try it all out and see I spose.

This rig is a toy, its not my daily.
 
The Craigslist add for a not ****ed up driveshaft is the best idea if you need to avoid spending for new

You will still have to phase the shaft if it’s been messed with

Plenty o good pictures of what is correct
 
78 GMC Jimmy said:
So which angle to I have and what do I do to make it the correct angle? I think I have #2 from the top.
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So you see this picture?
You see how the yokes look like a Y on both ends?
That is what you want to see.
That is in phase.
Out of phase would be the one side of the driveshaft is not in the same spot, in your case close to 90 degrees out of phase.
You just take the slip joint apart and put it back together with the ears matching on both ends.
 
imiceman44 said:
So you see this picture?
You see how the yokes look like a Y on both ends?
That is what you want to see.
That is in phase.
Out of phase would be the one side of the driveshaft is not in the same spot, in your case close to 90 degrees out of phase.
You just take the slip joint apart and put it back together with the ears matching on both ends.
Click to expand...

Cool, I will give it a shot.
 
No one has a Driveshaft to sell? I would even buy one of those fancy ass 3 point ones if its a good price. I will be testing mine out today, now that its in phase (or 180 out), with new greasable U-joints. Anyone know what type of grease they put in the U-joints? I ask, because different types of grease are not always compatible, and mixing them can cause the grease to turn to a liquid or a solid. I usually use the SuperTech waterproof marine grease on everything, but only when its not being mixed with an unknown grease type.

Grease compatibility chart:

 
Another reason I want to keep trying to make this driveshaft work, is that I do not know the cause of failure. Phase, angle, vibration, bad luck, grease incompatibility, etc. Once I isolate the problem, then I may be able to remedy it or at least prevent the same issue from happening on the replacement driveshaft. I don't want to throw parts at the problem.
 
The hard part is that there were various drivetrain combinations that resulted in different lengths. Plus, a lot of these rigs have been lifted and seen driveline swaps over the years. I think @kennyw is out your way and is sometimes parting trucks. You could look for a salvage yard that keeps shafts piled up and go dig through, but you have to be careful and measure the yokes/joints. Then there are online resources like LKQ, car-part.com and eBay.
 
No matter which direction you go with this, you need to measure those angles.
 
Blue85 said:
The hard part is that there were various drivetrain combinations that resulted in different lengths. Plus, a lot of these rigs have been lifted and seen driveline swaps over the years. I think @kennyw is out your way and is sometimes parting trucks. You could look for a salvage yard that keeps shafts piled up and go dig through, but you have to be careful and measure the yokes/joints. Then there are online resources like LKQ, car-part.com and eBay.
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Oh damn, I checked eBay, but I forgot about car-part.com. Thanks for the tip, I will check there.
 
Blue85 said:
No matter which direction you go with this, you need to measure those angles.
Click to expand...

Not exactly sure how to do that. The rig doesn't need to be level I assume, since your just comparing the number of degree difference between the shaft and the transfer case / diff? Or?
 
It need to be on the tires or jack stands supporting the axles.
You need someway to measure an angle.
This can be confusing, and I am having a hard time finding a good way to explain.
1 you need to be aware of direction of the angle you are measuring over 90° or under 90°, so you compare apples to apples.
Slope of tube, pinion yoke face, t case yoke/flange face.
For your current style 2 u joint shaft the pinion and t case yoke must be the same. At least within 1° of each other.
 
Wes Harden said:
It need to be on the tires or jack stands supporting the axles.
You need someway to measure an angle.
This can be confusing, and I am having a hard time finding a good way to explain.
1 you need to be aware of direction of the angle you are measuring over 90° or under 90°, so you compare apples to apples.
Slope of tube, pinion yoke face, t case yoke/flange face.
For your current style 2 u joint shaft the pinion and t case yoke must be the same. At least within 1° of each other.
Click to expand...


Hmm. I will measure the angles, but if the T-case and diff need to be the same angle, then I need to remove the angled blocks from the rear axle. They are causing the diff yoke to be angled upward. If I take those out, then the diff and T-case would both be level. Is that the correct course of action?

Now I get it. Now I understand the angle picture that you posted before. I am definitely #3 but in reverse.
 
Maybe this diagram will help. It's easier to do with the driveshaft out. It can be done with the driveshaft installed, you just have to get creative with what you reference the angle finder/phone to.

1718817418359.png
78 GMC Jimmy said:
if the T-case and diff need to be the same angle, then I need to remove the angled blocks from the rear axle. They are causing the diff yoke to be angled upward. If I take those out, then the diff and T-case would both be level. Is that the correct course of action?
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Possibly so. Or you would replace them with a block of a different angle.
 
Wes Harden said:
It need to be on the tires or jack stands supporting the axles.
You need someway to measure an angle.
This can be confusing, and I am having a hard time finding a good way to explain.
1 you need to be aware of direction of the angle you are measuring over 90° or under 90°, so you compare apples to apples.
Slope of tube, pinion yoke face, t case yoke/flange face.
For your current style 2 u joint shaft the pinion and t case yoke must be the same. At least within 1° of each other.
Click to expand...


So if I measured properly, using an app -

Diff: about 79-80 degrees
T-Case: about 100-101 degrees

That's putting the phone on the end of the yoke.

The rig is on a hill, so disregard the odd numbers. Just comparing the difference between the two, I'm about 20 degrees off?
 
The rear blocks are in a way that they are angling the yoke up, but if i reversed them, it might just equalized everything. Since I have to take them out anyway, I might as well put taller ones in. The front of the truck appears to sit a little higher than the rear. Aside from brake lines and shock length , is there anything I need to watch for with taller blocks? Is there a specific type of material I should look for?
 
You might need longer drive shaft if you go taller.
Not having the proper slip engagement will create a wobble and vibration
 
https://www.theturboforums.com/attachments/pinion-angle-jpg.549968/

I doubt you're off by 20 degrees. If you take each measurement as difference from 90 (vertical), they match. It all depends on the reference. Certainly from the pics, the T-case is pointing down and the pinion is pointing up.

78 GMC Jimmy said:
To me, that would be a better option (if it works) than dropping $400 on a drive shaft.
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The one I linked is about $300 to your door and that includes about $50 worth of U-joints. A driveline shop will charge the better part of that to replace the tubing, one of the yokes and balance. This is way cheaper than having the driveline come off again and break off your pinion yoke or the back of the transfer case.

So, after you figure out how to make the smashed yoke retain the joint (are you tack welding the cap or trying to smash/file it back to a slip fit?), how are you going to balance it? You should also check it for straightness - if it's dented it could be bented (I hereby copyright that) and then it will always vibrate and joints continue to wear.
 
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Blue85 said:
https://www.theturboforums.com/attachments/pinion-angle-jpg.549968/

I doubt you're off by 20 degrees. If you take each measurement as difference from 90 (vertical), they match. It all depends on the reference. Certainly from the pics, the T-case is pointing down and the pinion is pointing up.


The one I linked is about $300 to your door and that includes about $50 worth of U-joints. A driveline shop will charge the better part of that to replace the tubing, one of the yokes and balance. This is way cheaper than having the driveline come off again and break off your pinion yoke or the back of the transfer case.

So, after you figure out how to make the smashed yoke retain the joint (are you tack welding the cap or trying to smash/file it back to a slip fit?), how are you going to balance it? You should also check it for straightness - if it's dented it could be bented (I hereby copyright that) and then it will always vibrate and joints continue to wear.
Click to expand...




I added a pic to the link, so that you can see how the measurement was taken. I downloaded an angle app, and held the edge of the phone against the end of the yoke.

 
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