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Anti-Theft Devices You Use...

I've been meanming to do a starter kill, ignition kill, and a fuel cut off switch. At the moment i use the column gaurd and it is never left out of my site without that guard on. After already having one blazer stolen (watched it drive away at 2:45am) i would probably shoot the next guy that tries to steal mine (assuming i'm at home and hear someone attempting to steal it).
 
NV_K5 said:
I use chain around the steering wheel to the brake pedal and a pretty large master lock. I used to do this with a VW I had in Modesto CA and it never got swipped. I figure it must work.
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Come on, I go to school in Stockton and grew up in modesto! You make is sound terriable :haha:. (b/c it is, but seeing I don't drive an import I am don't worry about it).

I have given up on anti theft. I used to care but in the end they are going to take it regardless. With that said mine is propane injected so I just turn off the tank and pull the ignition fuse, and b/c i have a manuel w/ an auto column I put the column in "gear" and for what ever reason it won't start (and the key still pulls out :doah:). Worked so far in Modesto and Stockton Ca

Ironic thing is my dad and I had a 64 GMC project never locked it and I often left the keys in it. It always ended up where I left it...
 
GsxrMike said:
Mostly worried about my tires coming up missing. My truck is way too one off for anybody to risk stealing for a profit. A joyride however is a differant story. Lucky for me it is always broken so I don't have to worry about it.
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same here, 42's and a flame paintjob with a huge skull on the tailgate make it pretty one off. and the fact that its sat so long makes me think everyone gave up on it as well. i actually tried to take theft off my insurance, i told the guy no one is gonna steal my truck, he said you dont know that. seeing as i know everyone around with woods trucks, i think im pretty sure. but im gonna stick with unlabelled twin sticks and a ratchet shifter. my own friends cant work the ratchet :D my carb came off a cammed motor and its still not tuned right so theres a special method to start the truck, otherwise you sit there all day cranking, and the starters goin, so sometimes it just clicks when its cold and has to be hit. its the little things in life that make it fun:doah:
 
I've got an alarm with starter kill, and have plans for either another aux starter kill, or a fuel pump cutoff.

I'm just curious where everyone is tapping into the fuel pump wires to "kill" them. Not sure i know where they run, besides out from teh dash and to the back of the truck (duh).
 
I do have Lo-jack on my blazer but would rather not dependon that. Sorta my last resort of getting it back in my possession. WIth Lo-jack I can't use a battery shutoff/kill switch because I gotta have battery power to the LJ system at all times.

Can someone post a link to a starter kill switch they use or would get and a breif discription of how it is hook up. I would put the switch in my Tuffy consel.
 
interupt the purple wire going to the starter with a toggle switch, same with the ignition wire to the dizzy...

If you do the fuel pump, id hide a relay somewhere, then pull the relay so it cant turn on.
 
Big Blzn said:
I do have Lo-jack on my blazer but would rather not dependon that. Sorta my last resort of getting it back in my possession. WIth Lo-jack I can't use a battery shutoff/kill switch because I gotta have battery power to the LJ system at all times.

Can someone post a link to a starter kill switch they use or would get and a breif discription of how it is hook up. I would put the switch in my Tuffy consel.
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That is not true, the lo-jack has a built in battery as a back-up that i think is good for 12 hours. The 3 wires that come out of the lo-jack 1 is the antenna, the other 2 are power wires to keep a charge in the back-up battery.
 
Mine has already been stolen once. After looking at what little they had to do to steal it, I now pull it right up against a metal post and park another truck right behind it. That has worked well, even though I'm in a bad neighborhood and my neighbor who was parked beside me got his car broken in to. Leaving notes with death threats and drawings of skulls and stuff has worked for me too. Even if you have all those disconnects and all that, they'll still tear up the steering column before they figure out they can't start it.

One guy on here puts a chain through the holes in the front wheel and around the axle.
 
This is from LoJacks website.

Does my car need to be running for LoJack to work?
No. The LoJack Unit constantly draws a very small amount of power from your vehicle's battery. Should your battery be disconnected, LoJack's backup battery will provide power.
 
I have a Clifford alarm with 2 sirens but still I put a switch with a relay to cut out the fuel pump ( find the wire where it comes out of the firewall and cut it there ) I also put a switch to the power wire to the coil to cut that out too. I also put a lock on the hood to keep them from getting under there. It WILL take them a while.
Tarey
 
I always thought just pulling the coil wire should work fairly well. That's about it for me.

Of course, mine's a bit of a beater, so its not really worth going through too much trouble- there are lots of other cars around a thief would rather have.
 
4X4HIGH said:
That is not true, the lo-jack has a built in battery as a back-up that i think is good for 12 hours. The 3 wires that come out of the lo-jack 1 is the antenna, the other 2 are power wires to keep a charge in the back-up battery.
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You are partially right.:D I was just being lazy and didn't explain it all. The LJ does have a battery pack in it. It is good for about 7 days. The problem is that if you disconnect the battery, or LJ for that matter, it will not recharge the batteries in the LJ unit back up once the truck battery is reconnected. Once the batteries are dead in the LJ you are done unless you have a tech come out and replace them or the unit. Unless things have changed, this is what the tech told me.
 
Big Blzn said:
You are partially right.:D I was just being lazy and didn't explain it all. The LJ does have a battery pack in it. It is good for about 7 days. The problem is that if you disconnect the battery, or LJ for that matter, it will not recharge the batteries in the LJ unit back up once the truck battery is reconnected. Once the batteries are dead in the LJ you are done unless you have a tech come out and replace them or the unit. Unless things have changed, this is what the tech told me.
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hm, that sucks. Guess you have to wire certain circuits direct to teh battery, and others (starter, ign) to a kill switch.
 
Big Blzn said:
You are partially right.:D I was just being lazy and didn't explain it all. The LJ does have a battery pack in it. It is good for about 7 days. The problem is that if you disconnect the battery, or LJ for that matter, it will not recharge the batteries in the LJ unit back up once the truck battery is reconnected. Once the batteries are dead in the LJ you are done unless you have a tech come out and replace them or the unit. Unless things have changed, this is what the tech told me.
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I will bet 200% that the person who told you this is wrong. You want me to believe that if i have to change a battery or if my battery goes dead that the lojack is now useless because once i install a new battery the lojack backup battery will no longer maintain a charge from the vehicle battery. You better have another talk with Lojack about this as i will also since i have Lojack in all my vehicles.

EDIT: I just left an e-mail for Lojack so once they get back to me i'll let you know what they tell ME.
 
I don't drive my trail truck around town, so normally it'd have to be taken from my house. That means 6 foot iron gates (one padlocked and one electric), a pair of 70 lb pitbulls, likely a dead battery, and a trans that leaks down if it sits more than a week. Oh yeah, and no choke. So, by the time they distract the dogs, jump start it and try to keep it running, they'll find out it won't go into gear until they fill the trans.:haha: I can just imagine how many people would want my truck.:rolleyes:
 
Just some imagination would do a great kill switch, i got a friend with a 4runner and he has a good one, if hes drunk or looses knowledge hes walking home

first open the key, then turn a button on the A/C, then turn the high beams, then a hidden switch then go start the car, lots of things to do but it works in my point of seeing it.

Same with our rides we can put serial switches or use accesories wich are not usefull anymore, for example i got no A/C so i can maybe use the lever to activate something or the stock light switch..

What can you kill..
Starter
Battery
Dizzy
Fuel
Can you do the alt??? if so how, im guessing cutting the battery source

fix the ignition so you cannot turn the engine without the door being locked, i want to do this one but not in the mood to do a lot of wiring or taking my doors apart.

Maybe even the parking brake light, of the 4hi-4lo light on the dash.

Whats that smell coming from the neighboors roomm..........:rolleyes:
 
bot0611 said:
Just some imagination would do a great kill switch, i got a friend with a 4runner and he has a good one, if hes drunk or looses knowledge hes walking home

first open the key, then turn a button on the A/C, then turn the high beams, then a hidden switch then go start the car, lots of things to do but it works in my point of seeing it.

Same with our rides we can put serial switches or use accesories wich are not usefull anymore, for example i got no A/C so i can maybe use the lever to activate something or the stock light switch..

What can you kill..
Starter
Battery
Dizzy
Fuel
Can you do the alt??? if so how, im guessing cutting the battery source

fix the ignition so you cannot turn the engine without the door being locked, i want to do this one but not in the mood to do a lot of wiring or taking my doors apart.

Maybe even the parking brake light, of the 4hi-4lo light on the dash.

Whats that smell coming from the neighboors roomm..........:rolleyes:
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I agree, use switches that are already there.

Doing the door lock thing will be hard though, as no circuit gets completed when door is locked vs. unlocked, only momentary when it is locked or unlocked. And any type of latching relay would get messed up if you ever had to lock or unlock twice, or do it by hand.
 
dhcomp said:
I agree, use switches that are already there.

Doing the door lock thing will be hard though, as no circuit gets completed when door is locked vs. unlocked, only momentary when it is locked or unlocked. And any type of latching relay would get messed up if you ever had to lock or unlock twice, or do it by hand.
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I know but would'nt be a great one.

One option is to hold the electric switch doen while cranking and have that cable tapped to the starter or a kill switch for the starter
 
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