Thanks! You and me both.
CK5
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ARAMP1's Ultimate TowRig Build Thread
- Thread starter ARAMP1
- Start date
I started routing some fuel lines and such. Here's the pickup assembly. It's 5/8" fuel line with 3/8" return.
Here it is in the fuel tank.
I think I'm going to look for a GM sending unit ring and seal. The chinese one that I got from o'reiley's help section is a bit flimsy.
Here it is in the fuel tank.
I think I'm going to look for a GM sending unit ring and seal. The chinese one that I got from o'reiley's help section is a bit flimsy.
Got some work done on the radiator support. Here's what I started with. Even though it's 20 years old, it looks brand new.
There's a lot of these trucks with diesels swapped in; mostly Cummins, so it's not like I'm the first one to adapt an intercooler. There are two schools of though though, infront of the core support or behind. First, I looked at what others have done, and I've found that on the quad headlight GM trucks, most are mounting behind with a second gen Dodge intercooler. I mocked everything up on the truck and found that without serious modification to the lights, it wasn't going to work, so behind it went. I started by drilling out the spot welds on the support brackets and banging them out.
I laid the intercooler in and it fits like a champ. For me and this engine, mounting it upside down is going to work best.
I plan on cutting off the stock brackets and rewelding them on the intercooler upside down. That'll have to wait until later this week. I'm out of non-thoriated tungsten and I've found that it works best for welding aluminum.
There's a lot of these trucks with diesels swapped in; mostly Cummins, so it's not like I'm the first one to adapt an intercooler. There are two schools of though though, infront of the core support or behind. First, I looked at what others have done, and I've found that on the quad headlight GM trucks, most are mounting behind with a second gen Dodge intercooler. I mocked everything up on the truck and found that without serious modification to the lights, it wasn't going to work, so behind it went. I started by drilling out the spot welds on the support brackets and banging them out.
I laid the intercooler in and it fits like a champ. For me and this engine, mounting it upside down is going to work best.
I plan on cutting off the stock brackets and rewelding them on the intercooler upside down. That'll have to wait until later this week. I'm out of non-thoriated tungsten and I've found that it works best for welding aluminum.
I could probably go back through and figure it out, but what transmission are you using? With that flywheel, I wouldn't bolt the clutch to the flywheel and install the transmission, I would install the transmission and then bolt up the clutch. WAY easier.
Martin
Martin
It's a Roadranger RTO-610, 10 speed overdrive. The flywheel is the heavy sucker. The clutch is much more manageable. It's a twin disk Lipe. Don't even know if it'd even be doable to bolt it on after the transmission is bolted up.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
That's the only way I do clutches in bigrigs. Hang the clutch on the input engage the release fork to the throw out bearing. And band it up. Usually have to use a prybar to bump the clutch right up into the flywheel lipwhen you get right up to it, cause it sags a little. Just make sure the fltwheel has a pair of holes already lined up at the bottom opening before you start.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
I've never done one before. I'll definitely have to look into it.
I started routing some fuel lines and such. Here's the pickup assembly. It's 5/8" fuel line with 3/8" return.
Here it is in the fuel tank.
I think I'm going to look for a GM sending unit ring and seal. The chinese one that I got from o'reiley's help section is a bit flimsy.
Glad to see forward progress on this!! What did you use to seal the fittings to your aluminum plate?? I can't see from the pic, but over the years, I have learned a few things NOT to use, so I was curious as to what you were using. If you have any issues finding the lock ring and seal let me know as I have a stack of them here and can definitely spare some if you need them.
Thanks! Good question. I don't have anything sealing it right now. I've thought about copper washers and rubber O rings. I've also thought about safety wiring the nuts, but in the end, I'll probably just end up TIGing the pass through fitting to the plate.
I've had some people ask how the intercooler fits in with the radiator. Here's a mock up.
The radiator actually sits in it's stock location. The intercooler is mounted upside down from how it would be in a dodge.
AND, I don't know how I did it, but I lost my transmission yoke. I looked for about an hour today and found a bunch of other things, but no yoke.
The radiator actually sits in it's stock location. The intercooler is mounted upside down from how it would be in a dodge.
AND, I don't know how I did it, but I lost my transmission yoke. I looked for about an hour today and found a bunch of other things, but no yoke.
It's a Roadranger RTO-610, 10 speed overdrive. The flywheel is the heavy sucker. The clutch is much more manageable. It's a twin disk Lipe. Don't even know if it'd even be doable to bolt it on after the transmission is bolted up.
That flywheel isn't that heavy. I always manhandle them. Yes, it is most definitely possible to install the clutch after the transmission and insanely easier. I've shown a few people how to do it that way after they have done it the other way for years, and they generally get mad at themselves.
Martin
Definitely like easier.
I've had some people ask how the intercooler fits in with the radiator. Here's a mock up.
The radiator actually sits in it's stock location. The intercooler is mounted upside down from how it would be in a dodge.
AND, I don't know how I did it, but I lost my transmission yoke. I looked for about an hour today and found a bunch of other things, but no yoke.
Holy crap, that is bitchin'!! I like your style--alot!!
As far as sealing your bulkhead fittings, copper washers would probably work fine. I'm not too sure about the o-rings though. They are probably not necessary. I actually had the best luck using nylon washers. Nylon drain plug washers to be exact. Seems strange, but they have held up for almost twenty years now. Stat-o-seal washers would be the best (but I never used them myself for this application). Maybe see if your local suplier has those available, but if not I can attest to the durability of nylon.
Man, don't feel bad about the loss of parts. I bought a few things to replace "lost" items along the way in my build--usualy just to find the original a week later. Oh well.
Keep up the great work!!
Thanks. I wish I could say that I had something to do with how awesome it fits in there, but it's all been done before. Thanks to CrewCab59 for the info!
I'll check them out, thanks!
Thanks! It just irks me to know it's in the garage somewhere. This is one of the problems with taking such a long hiatus on a build. I will not buy another yoke...out of principle and price. Anyone know what a 1710 yoke costs? Don't think it'd be too cheap.
Got a little bit done on the truck today. I didn't have the perfect spot for the oil drain. It was a compromise with every spot that would have been convenient, so I ended up drilling a hole in the side of the block and tapping it for the drain. I never got a good coat of paint on the oil pan since I painted the engine on a makeshift crate, so I took care of that since I had to drop the pan to drill this hole.
You can see a couple makeshift cardboard deflector pieces that I put up in there to deflect any shards of aluminum that might come about from me drilling.
Here's the finished hole tapped.
And here it is with the earls fitting in it. Since NPT is tapered, I made sure not to tap too much as to bottom out my fitting. Like my dad always said, measure twice, cut once.
I also hit a little bit of a setback and I'm not sure what to do. I was welding up some aluminum for the intercooler mounts and I ran out of argon. I'm moving in less than two weeks. Do I buy another bottle (which I'll have to return before I leave) or just wait until I get to FL? I'll probably just wait since there's more than enough other things to do.
You can see a couple makeshift cardboard deflector pieces that I put up in there to deflect any shards of aluminum that might come about from me drilling.
Here's the finished hole tapped.
And here it is with the earls fitting in it. Since NPT is tapered, I made sure not to tap too much as to bottom out my fitting. Like my dad always said, measure twice, cut once.
I also hit a little bit of a setback and I'm not sure what to do. I was welding up some aluminum for the intercooler mounts and I ran out of argon. I'm moving in less than two weeks. Do I buy another bottle (which I'll have to return before I leave) or just wait until I get to FL? I'll probably just wait since there's more than enough other things to do.
I would wait
Turbo drain finally installed.
Well, got a little bit done in the garage today. I cut all the tabs off my intercooler. They stuck too far forward, hitting the radiator support panel. There's no going back now. Going to weld them on where I need them.
So after cutting one of the brackets off, I find this:
Looks to be a hole inside of the casting. I don't know how deep it goes. I stuck a pick in and it goes in pretty far. I'm debating just leaving it and seeing what happens. I might also take it to a welder. I don't mind welding brackets on and such, but I'm a little leery with my lack of skill welding something up that needs to hold 40-50 PSI.
So after cutting one of the brackets off, I find this:
Looks to be a hole inside of the casting. I don't know how deep it goes. I stuck a pick in and it goes in pretty far. I'm debating just leaving it and seeing what happens. I might also take it to a welder. I don't mind welding brackets on and such, but I'm a little leery with my lack of skill welding something up that needs to hold 40-50 PSI.
Can't leave the hole--gotta fix it (if it goes into the "tank"). If nothing else, peen the edges to close the hole somewhat and there is an aluminum rod that, with the proper flux, will seal it up no problem. It is what was used on my custom a/c fittings and they hold over 325psi. Check with a welding store. It is like aluminum brazing rod for lack of a better explanation (or proper name for that matter).
