CK5
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Ball Joint Removal?? Success with re-assembled photos now!
- Thread starter jeff in co
- Start date
Just what I needed to know and that makes sense (that's why I asked)...thanks 4x4.
No problem. I also replied to your for sale thread.
398HBX
1/2 ton status
I beg to differ. With the proper socket, it is very easy to turn and remove the adjuster with the ball joint installed. As for CANNOT? I did it.
398HBX
1/2 ton status
I used the Spicer U-Joints, PN 5-760X. These are sealed, nongreasable(sp?) heavy duty U-Joints. To install them you need either a press, vice, or a hammer and a large punch. I just used the large punch. You tube has some GREAT videos for u-joint removal and installation. I have no idea what we did before the internet!
Finished up most of it last night....thanks all for the help and guidance. Here are some photos as I progressed.
Here are the new ball joints installed with the grease zerks. The driver's side was turned just a little more in the outward direction and is easier than the passenger side (as far as access with a grease gun). I can still get both, but the driver's side was turned just a little more toward the outside. This would be good to know next time.
Took the advice on changing out the axle shaft u-joints. Had the local driveline shop install new spicer u-joints for $75 installed (including the u-joints). I thought this was a good deal!
Before u-joints:
After new u-joints:
I tried to clean out the axle tubes as much as I could with a rag but I'm sure there was some dirt still remaining. Here are some before pics:
On the short side, I used a piece of foam as a pivot point and carefully inserted the drive shaft without hitting any edges. On the long side I used a tape measure inside the entire length of the tube and then tried to just use the inside lip as a pivot point. I tried several times before I felt like I really got it in there clean. This was perhaps the biggest unknown of the install. I think for piece of mind, I might just change the front diff fluid to be sure I didn't accidentally get some dirt in there.
Here are the new ball joints installed with the grease zerks. The driver's side was turned just a little more in the outward direction and is easier than the passenger side (as far as access with a grease gun). I can still get both, but the driver's side was turned just a little more toward the outside. This would be good to know next time.
Took the advice on changing out the axle shaft u-joints. Had the local driveline shop install new spicer u-joints for $75 installed (including the u-joints). I thought this was a good deal!
Before u-joints:
After new u-joints:
I tried to clean out the axle tubes as much as I could with a rag but I'm sure there was some dirt still remaining. Here are some before pics:
On the short side, I used a piece of foam as a pivot point and carefully inserted the drive shaft without hitting any edges. On the long side I used a tape measure inside the entire length of the tube and then tried to just use the inside lip as a pivot point. I tried several times before I felt like I really got it in there clean. This was perhaps the biggest unknown of the install. I think for piece of mind, I might just change the front diff fluid to be sure I didn't accidentally get some dirt in there.
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[FONT="]Greased the new bearings and installed into the new hubs. Found a hole saw cup that worked great installing the seal.
And finally new brakes and calipers....
Finished!!
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And finally new brakes and calipers....
Finished!!
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Looks good. I hate bonded brake linings though, i've had them come loose or start cracking so I only use riveted linings now. Just a thought for future use.
398HBX
1/2 ton status
I Love it! Looks great, I'm sure you had fun while doing it. Why did you change the hub? Was it bad?
At 300,000+ miles, I figured it was probably due. I have no idea on the maintenance so I figured be safe than sorry. As it turned out, one of the the rotors was shot and definitely couldn't be turned!
By the time I got a hub and then had someone press on the rotor and new race, I'd probably be into more than just the whole assembly already together.
For $60 total, I thought it was worth it and gave me peace of mind. New bearings, seals, etc......much better I thought in the long run!
Thanks for the tip.....never thought about it though.
I checked O'Reillys and Autozone.....all the ones I see don't show any rivets. Wagner included.
Especially if you haven't bled the brakes yet, now's a great time to paint the calipers. I find that they get brake fluid on them veeeery easily, and therefore rust very quickly.
A coat of paint not only makes 'em look nice, but also makes it easier to find brake fluid drips. Wipe 'em up quick and they should stay painted.
And god, I forgot what shiny rotors looked like
-- A
A coat of paint not only makes 'em look nice, but also makes it easier to find brake fluid drips. Wipe 'em up quick and they should stay painted.
And god, I forgot what shiny rotors looked like
-- A
Well, what just showed up in the mail today.....my 4" steering arm! Perfect timing!
I slapped it on and also changed the front diff fluid. Glad I did as I did get just a hint of dirt in there when I inserted my axle shafts. I wiped it clean and flushed it good. Re-installed the cover and filled up with some new fluid. Went for a test drive and surprisingly, nothing too exciting.
The steering does feel tight but it's also twitchy right now. I can only assume that a front end alignment is in the near future. I wouldn't expect it to be dead straight as I removed all shims, tapers, and installed a new tie-rod end. It's expected.
The only slight concern was after a 5 minute drive and pushing the brakes a few times to a dead stop, I came into the driveway and the front hubs were lightly smoking and pretty hot to the touch. Does this sound normal for new pads and rotors??
I slapped it on and also changed the front diff fluid. Glad I did as I did get just a hint of dirt in there when I inserted my axle shafts. I wiped it clean and flushed it good. Re-installed the cover and filled up with some new fluid. Went for a test drive and surprisingly, nothing too exciting.
The steering does feel tight but it's also twitchy right now. I can only assume that a front end alignment is in the near future. I wouldn't expect it to be dead straight as I removed all shims, tapers, and installed a new tie-rod end. It's expected.
The only slight concern was after a 5 minute drive and pushing the brakes a few times to a dead stop, I came into the driveway and the front hubs were lightly smoking and pretty hot to the touch. Does this sound normal for new pads and rotors??
It's normal for the hubs to get hot, but smoking may be a bit much.
First things first, you seem to know what you're doing, BUT lets check anyways...
Did you adjust the wheel bearings properly? Tell us what you did...
Also, jack up the front end and spin the wheels by hand. Do they spin freely without much drag?
First things first, you seem to know what you're doing, BUT lets check anyways...
Did you adjust the wheel bearings properly? Tell us what you did...
Also, jack up the front end and spin the wheels by hand. Do they spin freely without much drag?
yeah, the smoking is not cool pun
also, how did you set your toe? If you can have help, get a couple yard sticks out and put them against the tire. You can measure front and back a little easier this way. Make it the same or a tad narrower in front. I think, I set my quad up 1/8" narrower in front.
punalso, how did you set your toe? If you can have help, get a couple yard sticks out and put them against the tire. You can measure front and back a little easier this way. Make it the same or a tad narrower in front. I think, I set my quad up 1/8" narrower in front.
I checked with the auto parts store and he said if I didn't clean the rotors before installing, I would get a little smoke until it burned off. I just went for another drive and basically drove a few miles with no brakes.....no smoke and looked good.
I did the following: torqued first nut to 50 ft.lbs, backed it off and hit 50 ft.lbs again (manual hubs). Then I backed it off about 1/6 of a turn and then put on locking ring and lock nut. Finally torqued to about 100 ft.lbs (or whatever chiltons said).
I did not set any alignment at all. Just put in the straight sleaves for the upper ball joints. I was just going to let the alignment shop do all that......I assume this is ok. It does drive relatively straight but a littlee twitchy.
I did the following: torqued first nut to 50 ft.lbs, backed it off and hit 50 ft.lbs again (manual hubs). Then I backed it off about 1/6 of a turn and then put on locking ring and lock nut. Finally torqued to about 100 ft.lbs (or whatever chiltons said).
I did not set any alignment at all. Just put in the straight sleaves for the upper ball joints. I was just going to let the alignment shop do all that......I assume this is ok. It does drive relatively straight but a littlee twitchy.
yeah, the smoking is not cool
also, how did you set your toe? If you can have help, get a couple yard sticks out and put them against the tire. You can measure front and back a little easier this way. Make it the same or a tad narrower in front. I think, I set my quad up 1/8" narrower in front.
Oh, the toe. I did not set it at all.....just put the new tie rod end at approximately the same position as the old. I may just get the other half today and replace the whole tie rod assembly. Then I would use your method.....thanks for the tip!
Toed out is my guess...that'll make thing twitchy everytime.
Rene
Rene
OK, first of all, I don't need any "I told you so's" on selling the spanner socket tool.
I just got back from the Dealer and they did a front end alignment on the truck. Brought in my Midas $50 coupon and they matched it so I thought, I'm good to go.
After about 1.5 hours, they came back and said it looked good but the Caster and Camber were out just a bit. Not enough to wear the tires but not "right on". They told me that those were not adjustable. I told them they are adjustable and that there is a tapered sleeve in the upper ball joint that could be rotated to bring it in line better and I still had one of the tapered sleeves back in my tool box if needed.
He went back to asked the mechanic and sure enough, it is adjustable but that would cost me another $110 for labor to install plus another alignment. He said that the caster/camber is typically non-adjustable in their typical front end alignment.
I figured I could at least install the tapered sleeve and then bring it back to them for a second check.....(if I only had that Spanner Socket to install this thing
). Oh well....I guess I might just have to buy one again anyways.
With that behind me....
After discussing with the service adviser, we concluded that the top of the passenger side ball joint needed to be moved "back" and "out". He thought one side was all that was needed. Looking at my sheet, the driver's side looks like it could be moved "back" as well.
So, if I got another tapered sleeve, I was figuring to install and then bring it to a shop for an "alignment check" for another before and after. Hopefully with the new tapered sleeves, I will be closer to the spec areas.
Sound like a good solution??
Finally, I don't remember where I pulled them from (upper or lower) but I had some tapered washers as well. Any idea if I could utilize these as well in the alignment?
Here is the before and after readings.......
I just got back from the Dealer and they did a front end alignment on the truck. Brought in my Midas $50 coupon and they matched it so I thought, I'm good to go.
After about 1.5 hours, they came back and said it looked good but the Caster and Camber were out just a bit. Not enough to wear the tires but not "right on". They told me that those were not adjustable. I told them they are adjustable and that there is a tapered sleeve in the upper ball joint that could be rotated to bring it in line better and I still had one of the tapered sleeves back in my tool box if needed.
He went back to asked the mechanic and sure enough, it is adjustable but that would cost me another $110 for labor to install plus another alignment. He said that the caster/camber is typically non-adjustable in their typical front end alignment.
I figured I could at least install the tapered sleeve and then bring it back to them for a second check.....(if I only had that Spanner Socket to install this thing
). Oh well....I guess I might just have to buy one again anyways.With that behind me....
After discussing with the service adviser, we concluded that the top of the passenger side ball joint needed to be moved "back" and "out". He thought one side was all that was needed. Looking at my sheet, the driver's side looks like it could be moved "back" as well.
So, if I got another tapered sleeve, I was figuring to install and then bring it to a shop for an "alignment check" for another before and after. Hopefully with the new tapered sleeves, I will be closer to the spec areas.
Sound like a good solution??
Finally, I don't remember where I pulled them from (upper or lower) but I had some tapered washers as well. Any idea if I could utilize these as well in the alignment?
Here is the before and after readings.......
Caster adjustment is done with shims between the axle and leaf springs, camber adjustment is done with tapered shims between the knuckle and spindle. The adjuster sleeves you used the tool for DO NOT adjust caster or camber.
but caster and camber are two different things
your caster is controlled by the shims in the leaf springs.
your camber is your top and bottom measurement between tires
I haven't done this but I can take a stab at it. Don't everyone yell at me if I'm wrong
The sleeves adjust only so much. If the axle is straight, they work good. If the axle is bent in anyway, they will be maxed out and shims for the spindle will be needed. They look like big tapered rings that go between the knuckle and spindle.
If the camber is off, shims need to be changed. This will affect your steering greatly, by making it track better if it's set wrong. This will affect your pinon angle too, but because it's the front, it's not that critical.
your caster is controlled by the shims in the leaf springs.
your camber is your top and bottom measurement between tires
I haven't done this but I can take a stab at it. Don't everyone yell at me if I'm wrong
The sleeves adjust only so much. If the axle is straight, they work good. If the axle is bent in anyway, they will be maxed out and shims for the spindle will be needed. They look like big tapered rings that go between the knuckle and spindle.
If the camber is off, shims need to be changed. This will affect your steering greatly, by making it track better if it's set wrong. This will affect your pinon angle too, but because it's the front, it's not that critical.
