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Ball Joint Removal?? Success with re-assembled photos now!

4X4HIGH said:
Caster adjustment is done with shims between the axle and leaf springs, camber adjustment is done with tapered shims between the knuckle and spindle. The adjuster sleeves you used the tool for DO NOT adjust caster or camber.
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So I could use the two tapered washers to adjust the camber? These are place just under the kingpin nut on the upper balljoint, correct? I would place the washers so that both sides go out ever so slighly (thicker part of washer toward the inside of each wheel).

In actuality, do the final numbers look that bad? I'm just wondering why originally there was a tapered sleeve in there to begin with....:dunno:
 
sounds like your alignment jackasz only adjusted the toe. If he's complaining about caster and camber, sounds like he didn't so sh1t.
 
Oh, by the way. No more smoke on the front rotors.....must of just been the residue. And the truck stops WAY better now! Actually heard a skid sound when I was doing a hard brake test.:waytogo:
 
jeff in co said:
So I could use the two tapered washers to adjust the camber? These are place just under the kingpin nut on the upper balljoint, correct? I would place the washers so that both sides go out ever so slighly (thicker part of washer toward the inside of each wheel).

In actuality, do the final numbers look that bad? I'm just wondering why originally there was a tapered sleeve in there to begin with....:dunno:
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No washer placed between the upper b/j nut and the top of the knuckle will result in any kind of alignment adjustment. I think Fords used a sleeve in the top of the "C" that had an offset hole for small alignment adjustments, not sure for GMs. If the camber was positive (tire leaning out from vertical) the sleeve could be turned to place the position of the upper b/j deeper in the "C" which would tilt the top of the tire back in or more vertical. AFAIK, with GMs, you needed to place a tapered shim between the spindle and knuckle to adjust camber. Where do you get these? Do they still make them? I don't know, haven't looked for them.

Caster would be adjusted by using axle degree shims between the axle spring perch and leaf spring. But you can't adjust one side as the axle is one solid piece. Technically, you could cut the welds on one inner "C" and have it turned on the axle tube to adjust one side but that's going above and beyond what any alignment shop will do. That's something for an axle building shop.

The numbers don't look completely horrible. How does it drive? How does it look? Can you see one tire leaning in/out compared to the other, viewed from straight in front of the truck?
 
by lookin at the specs on that prnt you posted . if me i would run it. your not to bad at all for a old rig.

and its a solid axle so that caster/camber wont change as much as ifs threw the suspension travel.

keep a eye on it and if it starts to wear then fix it. other wise its fun game of wastin time/money for that little bit.

and toe that you had was gona smoke the tires more.

also keep rotations done to help fight wear.
 
I think you may be correct that it may be "good enough" as is. I am trying to do the best job I can but also not just throw cash away chasing something pretty small.

After all the new parts and basically re-doing the whole front end, I was aiming for "new like condition". If I could do a few tweaks, than I'd go for it provided I don't spend much more cash (I'm out for the truck budget now).

I will say that it drives A LOT better now after the alignment than before. I installed the new tie-rod last night so that was pretty rough on the setting. I didn't expect it to be very close....just close enough to get the the dealer for an alignment.

When I look at both front tires and compare it to each of the rears.....my eyeball tells me the fronts are tilted slightly outward at the top compared to the rears. Does this even make sense after reviewing the alignment numbers?

In other words, it looks like the bottom outside edges of the tires are touching the pavement more than the inside edges.







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that is adjustable upper sleave yes.

chances the dealer or reg tech has the tool you just sold :doah: to do it :haha:

and never seen those washers ever in 10+ years of 4wd work. :dunno:
 
That sleeve is an aftermarket adjustable one for adjusting camber (very rare to be able to even find them anymore). If you replaced them with the new sleeves that came with the new ball joints will be be a factory non eccentric sleeve.
 
4X4HIGH said:
That sleeve is an aftermarket adjustable one for adjusting camber (very rare to be able to even find them anymore). If you replaced them with the new sleeves that came with the new ball joints will be be a factory non eccentric sleeve.
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not rare to find scott. click my first link i posted above.
 
sweetk30 said:
quite saying kingpin on non dana 60 stuff. :haha:
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Quiet or Quite or Quit????:haha:(jokin')

Seriously....I don't know where I picked up the "kingpin" term.:dunno: Obviously wrong terminology for my 1/2 axle......:pimp:

I'll just call it the upper ball joint "nut" from now on.
 
After driving it this morning, it is a lot better than before the alignment but I will say it's still about 10% twitchy. I think a little moreso than before I replaced the original ball joints (with the tapered sleeves in).

So, if they are only $10 apiece it might just be worth the attempt to correct.

I'll talk to the alignment shop again to try and decide how much of a degree sleeve I need and the best way to position it. From the pics, it does look like the passenger is leaning outward more than the driver's side. My goal would be to shift the upper ball joint center towards the inside of the truck (creating more of an angle). I might even find a small degree one for the driver's side too.
 
If it's twitchy try a shade more toe in...like another 1/8".

Rene
 
As was said caster is set with shims between the bottom of the spring and top of axle. Because you have a solid axle the cross is more important than an individual side. Your cross caster is .2 degrees on the finished section of the alignment. The tapered sleeves are used to do adjustments to this on each side as an individual. --On this style of solid axle you have to install the same size shims on each side, no mix and match--

Those sleeves are an aftermarket way to do a faster caster camber adjustment while the truck is on the rack. It is a one shot way to do those two adjustments at once. Camber only can be reset by installing the large tapered shim between the spindle and C, it slips onto the 6 studs and the you install the spindle.

So lets talk specs now. The cross caster is .02. While perfect is .000 the number you are at is so good I wouldn't do anything with it. The camber is perfect on the left at 1.0 and .08 on the right. Here again I'd run it as the cross is at .02 difference so leave it be.

Now lets talk toe. You have way way to much toe. Here you add the numbers and the total is your toe. .10 and .05 equals .15 total. 1/32 of an inch equals .03875 degrees. Call that .04 for easy math. So .16 toe equals 1/4 of an inch. I'm not surprised its, twitchy it's running pigeon toed. Go back and demand they reset the toe to no more than .007~.008 total. Your tires and road manners will thank you for that.
 
smalltruckbigcid said:
As was said caster is set with shims between the bottom of the spring and top of axle. Because you have a solid axle the cross is more important than an individual side. Your cross caster is .2 degrees on the finished section of the alignment. The tapered sleeves are used to do adjustments to this on each side as an individual. --On this style of solid axle you have to install the same size shims on each side, no mix and match--

Those sleeves are an aftermarket way to do a faster caster camber adjustment while the truck is on the rack. It is a one shot way to do those two adjustments at once. Camber only can be reset by installing the large tapered shim between the spindle and C, it slips onto the 6 studs and the you install the spindle.

So lets talk specs now. The cross caster is .02. While perfect is .000 the number you are at is so good I wouldn't do anything with it. The camber is perfect on the left at 1.0 and .08 on the right. Here again I'd run it as the cross is at .02 difference so leave it be.

Now lets talk toe. You have way way to much toe. Here you add the numbers and the total is your toe. .10 and .05 equals .15 total. 1/32 of an inch equals .03875 degrees. Call that .04 for easy math. So .16 toe equals 1/4 of an inch. I'm not surprised its, twitchy it's running pigeon toed. Go back and demand they reset the toe to no more than .007~.008 total. Your tires and road manners will thank you for that.
Click to expand...

Great stuff, thank you! :bow:

Because it was still a little twitchy I thought that the sleeves were the main problem but after your explanation, that really helps (and logical too). I'll head back and have the toe adjusted better.

Because the tire "looks" to be tilted outward ever so slightly at the top (passenger worse than driver), will I ultimately have some poor tire wear in the future? Even though the cross numbers are close to one another, would it still make sense to put in a tapered sleeve to correct those a little? Would my "camber" number go closer to the 1.5* if I position the upper ball joint "inward" on both sides? Can I use two different degree sleeves for each side?

Really appreciate your input. They did tell me the "new" guy did the alignment this time.....I am assuming also he is "young" too and has not worked on solid axles too much. :dunno:
 
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