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Battery Lug Crimpers - What style is best? Ryoken?

dhcomp

dhcomp

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Ok, so looking to pick up a sub-$35 battery lug crimper.

What style is best?

I have some good lineman pliers that will crimp up to about 8 ga, want somethign that will crimp 4ga, 2ga, and possibly bigger in the future.

Hammer style:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hammer-On-Cable...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c04f83d89

Jaw Style: Haven't found cheap yet...

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2734

Or Harbor freight lever style:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66396

Pros/cons of each style?

Won't be used too frequently, but figure its a valuable tool to have, and be able to make useful spares, etc. for cables. Between the battery cable stuff I do, and the 12volt audio power wire i run, it will see some good use.

Thanks!
 
hammer smash ones suck... compound crimpers are far superior.. can't testify to the HF quality tho...
 
I have a hammer one...it sucks. Trying to get an acurate crimp is hard. I've thought about welding it to the bench so it wouldn't move around, which is it's biggest problem. About the best way to use it is to put it into the press. Not as fast as it should be (or the other methods) but it does work.
 
I solder ALL battery terminals without any issue. I clamp the terminal lug in a vice with the cable end standing upright then i heat the terminal with a propane torch and once it's hot i melt the solder into the lug filling it to the top then quickly insert the cable and then give the TUG test and once all good then it is heat shrinked.

I'm running dual batteries and both ground cables are 00 welding cable. When i have to remove the starter cable for anything it will then become a 00 cable as well.

Just keep in mind that there are different types of solder so make sure you use solder for electrical and not plumbing.
 
They make solder pellets for doing battery lugs. I've used them and they are nice. We have one of the big crimp style ones at work and its ok but I still prefer to solder them.
 
Ok, well glad i started this thread - thanks guys! I was about to buy the hammer style.

I also thought that most of you were soldering AND crimping connections. Filling the lug with solder and inserting the wire seems easy enough for me!

Soldering is something i need to learn to do properly . I haven't picked up a soldering iron since i was about 12, and i sucked at it then. EVERYTHING in my truck is crimped....but crimped well, w/ dielectric grease, zip tied wires, heat shrunk, etc.....

Buying a $25 MAP gas torch for soldering lugs sounds like a way better idea than buying a cheap large crimper.

Thanks guys!
 
4X4HIGH said:
I just use one of these on the standard camping propane bottle (small throw away bottles). http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000646QRG...e=asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B000646QRG
Click to expand...


Ok, easy enough. Cool you can run propane OR MAPP through that one.

In my VERY limited experience with small torches, and copper pipe soldering.....i used MAPP cause the propane ones didn't seem to burn hot enough/fast enough.

And i never knew the small propane torch bottles were the same as the camping ones. Gotta learn something every day, right ? :laugh:
 
one note to point out....

tho my truck is done exactly how Scott stated, soldered, I am not allowed to do that on boats, it's illegal... coast guard says they want a "mechanical" connection, meaning crimp... the theory is with high draw starters on the big diesels, the lug can heat up and loosen the solder/connection...
 
ryoken said:
one note to point out....

tho my truck is done exactly how Scott stated, soldered, I am not allowed to do that on boats, it's illegal... coast guard says they want a "mechanical" connection, meaning crimp... the theory is with high draw starters on the big diesels, the lug can heat up and loosen the solder/connection...
Click to expand...


Cool, that is valuable info. So do you solder then crimp, or crimp then solder? I'm guessing crimp then solder...
 
generally, I'll crimp only.. i have for certain customers, soldered them, then immediately throw the compound crimper to em... i wouldn't crimp then try to solder... thats what makes soldered bat cables easy to do, put it in a vise, fill it, stab it with wire... can't do that if you've crimped it...
 
ryoken said:
generally, I'll crimp only.. i have for certain customers, soldered them, then immediately throw the compound crimper to em... i wouldn't crimp then try to solder... thats what makes soldered bat cables easy to do, put it in a vise, fill it, stab it with wire... can't do that if you've crimped it...
Click to expand...


hm, ok. My mental debate on how to do this has started.....

Luckily, until i try and rid myself of side post cables, this can wait a little bit.
 
dhcomp said:
Ok, easy enough. Cool you can run propane OR MAPP through that one.

In my VERY limited experience with small torches, and copper pipe soldering.....i used MAPP cause the propane ones didn't seem to burn hot enough/fast enough.

And i never knew the small propane torch bottles were the same as the camping ones. Gotta learn something every day, right ? :laugh:
Click to expand...

I don't know if the torch is the same for propane and MAPP but i was using the general pic as what i use.

I just buy the small green propane camping bottles and use them with my Mr. Heater, and for soldering. I even have a small butane torch that i use for soldering small wire stuff. I may have used it as well for doing battery cables but i can't remember to be honest.
 
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4X4HIGH said:
I don't know if the torch is the same for propan and MAPP but i was using the general pic as what i use.

I just buy the small green propane camping bottles and use them with my Mr. Heater, and for soldering. I even have a small butane torch that i use for soldering small wire stuff. I may have used it as well for doing battery cables but i can't remember to be honest.
Click to expand...


Yep, that one says propane or MAPP.
 
Has anyone had any problems with soldered connections? The issue I've seen with small wire is the wire breaks from vibration. Soldered connections are not flexible, and cause a stress on the wire. I know that crimping small wires works great, but can have corrosion issues later depending on the environment.

All my welding cables have ta set-screw type connection I believe. Probably the best way to be able to replace a cable, if required.

Just curious about peoples experiences...
 
For small wires, i remember Jason (Rest in peace buddy) doing what looked ideal.

Twisted together, soldered, heat shrunk, then zip tied over the heat shrink. I'd love to find that alarm install thread he did, but I think it might be over at Off-road/chevy.

He was very particular about his wiring.

I, on the other hand, have taken to crimping (butt connectors)/heatshrinking/zip tieing crucial electrical interior connections.

Non crucial get crimp caps and ziptied. My main goal behind the zip ties is to take any mechanical wire strain/pulling off of the crimp.
 
Sorry, maybe I should clarify. Failures with end connectors (like lugs, rings, etc)? When the wires are pulling on the end, that's when I've seen them break with smaller wires. Strain relief would be best, of course!

When I splice wires, I usually solder and heat shrink, but I use the liquid electrical tape before sliding the heatshrink over to seal it up. Haven't had any problems with that.

Joshua
 
jolane said:
Sorry, maybe I should clarify. Failures with end connectors (like lugs, rings, etc)? When the wires are pulling on the end, that's when I've seen them break with smaller wires. Strain relief would be best, of course!

When I splice wires, I usually solder and heat shrink, but I use the liquid electrical tape before sliding the heatshrink over to seal it up. Haven't had any problems with that.

Joshua
Click to expand...


Got it. I've been zip tieing all my crimp cap connections for a while for this reason.

When using butt connectors, i heat shrink, then zip tie on either end of the butt over the heatshrink. When heat shrinking over butt connectors, the heat shrink rarely seals on the wire due to size, but my main reason for zip tieing on either side is to transfer some (all?) of the strain load the wire may see from the crimped connection to the heat shrink tubing. Is it perfect? No. Is it better than just crimping, or just soldering? Probably.

EDIT: Random tip on heat shrink tubing. A "decent" heat gun can be had at harbor freight for like $10. And the assortments of heat shrink tubing, or packs of longer pieces, can also be had for stupid cheap. No reason NOT to heat shrink underhood elec connections based on the low cost of these supplies.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=heat&Submit=Go

EDIT 2: Seems my $10 heat gun is no longer offered. Oh well. I'm sure the more expensive ones go on sale, or you can use coupons.
 
I solder EVERY connection these days. I used to use crimp connectors but soldering is a much better connection and definately better for less resistance. When making a splice i will strip enough insulation back that i can twist the wires together (inline, not laying each wire next to each other) then i solder them and heat shrink when finished. I also use my butane torch to heat the heat shrink (works really well but you just have to keep the flame far enough away to not melt the insulation or burn through the heat shrink)
 
4X4HIGH said:
I solder EVERY connection these days. I used to use crimp connectors but soldering is a much better connection and definately better for less resistance. When making a splice i will strip enough insulation back that i can twist the wires together (inline, not laying each wire next to each other) then i solder them and heat shrink when finished. I also use my butane torch to heat the heat shrink (works really well but you just have to keep the flame far enough away to not melt the insulation or burn through the heat shrink)
Click to expand...

Agreed, soldering is ideal. I just suck at it, and have avoided it rather than just sacking up, buying good equipment, and practicing it.

I was mainly giving details on methods I use to improve the durability of soldered or crimped connections.
 
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