That makes sense as I was pondering the same thing in regards to wire size.
CK5
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Black Betty - Formerly Blaze the Monster Machine
- Thread starter centexk5
- Start date
1984 K5 Project for Dad and kids
When hot soaked even more current is required.
Yep a heat soaked Delco solenoid can pull as high as 50 amps!
There are two windings in most starter solenoids. 1) a "pull in" winding. 2) A "hold in" winding. The pull in winding is a high current, high magnetism winding that goes to ground through the starter brushes. After the solenoid pulls the drive into the flywheel, and the solenoid copper contacts close, this winding gets 12v on both ends of the winding. This deletes the winding from drawing current any longer. On a good system, with large enough wires, good connections, and a good battery, this pull in winding is only there for about 50 milliseconds. Not enough time for a driver to even know it happens. The hold in winding is a much smaller winding, and it goes to ground through the solenoid case. It's current draw is there until the driver releases the key. If the system fails, do to too small of wire, bad connections, or battery voltage a heat soaked starter can fail to pull in which fails to negate the pull in winding, pulling the full current until the driver releases the key! This can cause about a 50 to 60 amp draw, instead of only the 15 amp hold in draw.
It's nice to understand there's justification for the wire size. I always wondered about because I had noticed the factory wire gauges tend to be smaller than I would expect with the purple starter wire being the one exception.
my start signal wire had been ham handed by some one the 12ga wire was cut @4" from bulk head connector, and blue butt connected to 16ga. Only reason it worked is the second solenoid to power the starter solenoid. They had it wired as I recommend to Mrk5 in his thread
I rewired to this on right
Only works for Non permanent magnet starters
I rewired to this on right
Only works for Non permanent magnet starters
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Lots of progress today. New gas cap and dipstick! Was gonna have an oil filter but forgot the block is a 97 vortec and not an 85 sbc. Not even close to fitting.
Oh. Almost forgot. A PCV valve and breather.
So I just double checked what I ordered and it's a Wix 51036XP which is what's supposed to go on it. But it doesn't even come close to the sealing surface or threading on to it. This engine did have an oil cooler adapter (which I still have). Is there something I'm missing?
Do you know if that filter is for one of those 90* filter adapters?
I am thinking of what was on my old GMT400 truck, which was 4wd with an oil cooler.
I am thinking of what was on my old GMT400 truck, which was 4wd with an oil cooler.
Not a clue.
Did some sleuthing. Looks like there is a plate you have to buy to adapt to not having an oil cooler. Looks like mine already has that plate so I just need to go buy a wix 51094 filter and it’ll thread on there. 
That looks like a standard old chevy filter. Mobil1 #M1-302, Purolator #PBL22500, Wix #51061, AC PF1218, Fram #NFG
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Yes. I mistyped the 51094. Been up since 4am and my brain isn't quite in gear yet.
Started redoing the wiring to the starter and alternator. Mostly done but it’s a mess. The insulation is crumbling as I move the harness. A couple of runs I had to take back to the bulkhead at the firewall to find decent wire. So far a new purple wire for the starter, a new wire from alternator to fusible link on firewall, new wires from the alternator plug to the factory bulk head on the firewall. 
What are these black things? I had to cut several out because of the harness and I think these are fusible links or maybe just some fancy butt connectors.
What are these black things? I had to cut several out because of the harness and I think these are fusible links or maybe just some fancy butt connectors.
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Black things are just a splice between regular wire, and the fuse link.
Are those and new fusible links available?
I know you can buy fusible links but not sure if it comes as a complete line or just by the foot.
Never thought of buying any myself.
fuse link is available but the black plastic splices are factory. You'd need to make them custom if you wanted that factory look. at least afaik
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Answered my own question. Not worried about factory look, just factory safety.
