I’ll give it a shot but I’m not confident. Tried to put it on backwards to see if it would even fit and I’d have to fold the spark plug boot to stuff it in.
CK5
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Black Betty - Formerly Blaze the Monster Machine
- Thread starter centexk5
- Start date
1984 K5 Project for Dad and kids
Are you talking about a heat barrier type boot, or the boot that slips over the spark plug?
This:
or this:
or this:
You can use the GM gauges for the holley, I think I spent $12 on one off of amazon.
Bottom one.
Oh ya? Amazon here I come.
I hate them but I love them.
Agreed.
I didn't have mine over the spark plug end. I had the heat shield boot on the plug and then the spark plug boot basically holds it in place. That's how it worked on my 454 for 6 years anyway.
If I was making my own cables I’d do it but these are pre made so I’ve gotta be able to slip them over the boot. Plus it’s a 90* boot so it’s that much more fun. My last set I was able to force them over those were some Amazon cheapies. Not MSD 8.5mm.
Oh, so you're trying to run them like the bottom right in that picture I posted. More so over just the wire than over the spark plug boot.
I would prefer them over most of the boot as the headers are very dang close. Close to what the picture shows.
The problem though is that the metal ring in them has a .687” opening and the widest part of the boot is .888”.
The problem though is that the metal ring in them has a .687” opening and the widest part of the boot is .888”.
Yeah disregard my advice. I was thinking the rubber boot.
Those boots are pretty robust, as long as they aren't touching the header I don't think you need the sleeve.
The boots themselves won’t touch but the wires will or will be within half an inch. Ran into this issue with my last engine and these headers.
You might be able to put them on like I did. If I still had the motor here I'd post a picture to better explain.
I plan to order sleeves soon, is the body big enough to slip over the spark plug boots “easily”? I’m running really big plug wires so I’m worried about them fitting.
The body is. The only part that’s not is the metal ring at one end.
I’m glad I don’t have to do this again.
Had to change the end on the coil wire. 
I’ve got the wires all ran and laid out for everything. Just gotta motivate myself to spend the effort to actually terminate and do the things. If I could spend a solid 6-8hrs in the shop, I could have this thing ready to fire. It’s all down to wiring and a couple of loose ends like connect throttle, prime oil, set timing, install breathers, install o2 sensor, fluids, and check for fuel leaks.
Two questions for those who may know.
1. Does the switched 12v for the transmission controller need to be hot while cranking?
2. I was going to tap off of the pink wire on the ignition switch for my hot while cranking and use it to trigger two relays, one for ECM and one for MSD. Any reason not to or is there a better location to grab that power?
I’ve got the wires all ran and laid out for everything. Just gotta motivate myself to spend the effort to actually terminate and do the things. If I could spend a solid 6-8hrs in the shop, I could have this thing ready to fire. It’s all down to wiring and a couple of loose ends like connect throttle, prime oil, set timing, install breathers, install o2 sensor, fluids, and check for fuel leaks.
Two questions for those who may know.
1. Does the switched 12v for the transmission controller need to be hot while cranking?
2. I was going to tap off of the pink wire on the ignition switch for my hot while cranking and use it to trigger two relays, one for ECM and one for MSD. Any reason not to or is there a better location to grab that power?
